How the hell do I use this thing??

You've gotten some good advice so far. One thing that probably should be emphasized is that after you load the shaft into the gun (and it clicks in), you should double check that the shaft has actually latched into the mechanism. It is quick and easy to just grab the end of the shaft and give it a tug (and be prepared for it to pop out) - don't poke your eye out.

This is a double check to ensure the shaft is engaged. You should then move the safety from the fire to the safe position and then wrap the line. If the safety does not moves smoothly into position, or the line release tab has not reset completely, then these are additional signals/checks that the shaft is (or is not securely latched in).

Even with following this protocol, be extra sure that the gun (any speargun) is not pointing at anything or anyone when you load the bands. If a gun is going to mis-fire due to damage, corrosion or for some other reason, there is a good chance it will do so during the loading process, so be extra vigilant when loading. Sometimes new divers are very excited, jump in the water and before the bubbles clear, they are loading the gun, only to realize that as the bubbles clear, that their buddy is doing the same right in front of them. Turn your back on your buddy for the moment is takes to load the bands and of course, never point a gun at anything you do not intend to kill.

We have recently upgraded the "how to" section of our website. It is better organized, more complete and includes videos, photographs and directions for various diving related activities. We have a video showing how to put a freedive suit on and also a separate one about how to safely remove the suit without damaging it. You may find some other useful content there as well.

Sounds like you might need some wetsuit glue too.

http://www.makospearguns.com/Instructional-Info-a/247.htm

dive safe

dano

@Sideburn On crimping force: the crimping tools I use (and you should use) are made for the job and you squeeze them until they don't squeeze anymore, at which point you're done: I would be really careful if you feel you have to squeeze your crimper only "so much" because that may mean you don't have the right crimper? Sorry I can't tell what crimper have so you may be OK there - but if you haven't tested your crimps maybe use a scrap or two of line and test out your technique before you commit your spear! Most of the crimpers (like CH-18 or the one from Mako etc) you squeeze until they can't go anymore, and they have slots for different types of crimps and line etc.

Here is a video that shows the rigging, but I will describe it below as well:
I can't see everything clearly in the photos (esp photo 5), but I think you've got a single wrap done. I would recommend tying the knot like you mentioned, so that the knot never has to travel through the line guide (little metal ring) under your gun.

Double-wraps mean more spear travel before the reel has to unwind: the idea is that there won't be much drag on the spear because it's not fighting the line release. So people usually use these on larger guns which have power at more than 2x the length of the shaft. I pretty much use a double on my guns in any case - seems easy after you do it a bunch of times, and I can't see much downside.

If you really want to know, go buy a foam board (I find kneeling boards for gardeners are really cheap, and about the right size to draw a fish), draw a fish on it, weight it down, and shoot your shaft at various distances until you get a sense for how far you can shoot accurately and also how far away you can be before the shaft doesn't go through anymore. I have a board with a weight to hold it down, then a rope tied to the weight with knots every meter, and have it about 7 meters long. I have another weight at the end of the rope. So I drop this stuff down, stretch the rope out, then position the tip at 1 meter, and work my way back and practice accuracy, and also get a sense for how strong each shot will be - this way you will know.

Anyways most people doing a "double wrap" go from the crimp forward to the hook, over the spear (to hold it on), down the groove on the front, then under the gun to the line release (like you show in the photo above #2), then back onto (but not through) the metal loop on the bottom front of the barrel, then back onto the line release at the back, then finally back to the metal loop on the bottom front of the barrel but this time through it back to your reel. . .I am not sure in your photo 5 what you're doing there, but I think you've got it.

When you're in the water reloading, you might have the rubbers hanging down, so you use one hand sliding along the line with tension to :
1) slide the shaft back and click it in place
2) pull on the line just past the crimp to make sure the shaft is locked in place
3) run your hand fwd with tension over the slots in the front to tie down the shaft - do the rest sliding your hand down the line with tension
4) come back to the line release
5) fwd to the hook/loop under the front
6) back around the line release
7) while pinching the line just fwd of the line release, reel in the reel handle until the line is tight, but not so tight that it activates your safety (some triggers won't release if the line release is pulled too tight).

Then when you reach around to grab the rubbers, they should flip over the tip and end up above the line as you have shown it.

Have fun ;-)

Very sorry to hear about the torn wetsuit. They do require some special procedures, but if you treat the wetsuit properly, they should last a long time.

If you do a good job and use the correct glue, it should hold up very well. Try not to touch the portion of the rubber being glued, you want it clean with no oils from your fingers if possible. Generally you will put a thin layer of neoprene cement on each side of the rip. the allow it to dry for an hour or more. then apply a second thin coat - again on both sides, allow it to dry for maybe 4-5 minutes, you want it to be tacky and not wet. then carefully and gently press the sides together, trying to match it up as best as you can. If you gently place the pieces together, you MAY be able to do a tiny bit of repositioning, but often you can't. When the two pieces are joined together and lines up as best as you can get them, then press the edges together firmly. Try to press and hold all sections of the tear, you can hold one section for 30 seconds and move on to another. In about 5 minutes, it should be set. Allow to dry for 12 hours or more before use if at all possible.