How to get confident for big surf.

[wallace]

Hi
I've been involved with sea sports since I can remeber. From lifesaving, surfing,scuba to watching topless chicks on the beach.
I'm at a stage now where I want to start getting into bigger surf. I'm always the first one to chicken out on a big day. I have always been amazed by the fact that my buddies and I are all roughly the same build and are moderatly fit but what separtes us in the water is a mental issue. I just happen to freak out before they do. I know I can overcome this fear by beaing more confident.
Any advice on breathing techniques would be appreciated. Whats the best way to train in a pool. Should i just lie at the bottom with a weight belt or should i do lenghts under water. Please excuse my spelling english is not my first language.

Thanks Wallace

 

[mishu1984]

yoga and meditation are pretty good, and i've had decent results with the Powerlung respiratory trainer

 

[apana]

you need to not think about anything. just go for it and have fun, thats why you're there. no thoughts except, 'this is going to be great when i drop in. and all those topless girls on the beach will be all over me.' if you can stay underwater for 10 seconds relaxed, you can surf anything. just roll with the wave or swim deeper if its deep. after you get off that wave that you're scared of, your confidence will only get bigger. as of now, the thinking is making it weaker.

 

[cdavis]

There is a very good and recent thread, dealing with big wave surfing and training for long hold downs. Scroll through general freediving or freediving training and/or use the search function to find it and similar stuff.

I body surf what are big waves for Florida, 10 ft face or so ( when my surf luck is real hot). Nothing realy large, but short hold downs give a flavor of what you are looking for. Two things are probably key, get in the habit of getting a good breath at the right time (harder than it sounds) and learning to be relaxed and comfortable while you are down and waiting. How to practice what you want in a pool is a hard question. Maybe something like swim 25 yards in apnea, hold for 30-50 seconds and then swim another 25 before taking a breath.

Welcome to DB

Connor

 

[The111]

Originally posted by apana
if you can stay underwater for 10 seconds relaxed, you can surf anything.

Riiiiiight..... :duh

 

[wallace]

Thanks for advice everyone.
But the fear lies more in just being out there when its big ( my big, 6ft face and up ) getting caught by the sets. everytime it happens I think, OK this is it, I'm going to drown. I end up sitting on the beach watching the waves thinking what was i so scared of. Panic, thats what it boils down to.
Anyone else out there get it bad in big surf

 

[crotch trout]

I used to have the same problem. I would get sacred shitless when I get sucked under a wave. One of the scariest times was when I was 12 and doing a junior lifeguard program. The surf that day was huge and we had to swim around one of the lifeguards. When we were swimming out to him a rip current sucked every one out including the lifeguard with out knowing until we were right in the break. All the lifeguards had to come out and rescue every one except for me and a few others. I did not want to go in the water for the rest of the day but that was a big confidant’s booster knowing that I could swim in. The biggest confidant’s booster was when I started doing static apnea tables. I now could hold my breath for a lot longer. It helped me know my limits and relies I could just hold my breath under the waves.

 

[wallace]

What are static apnea tables. There is no free diving training where I live. I would like to start training my self to hold my breath longer.
Thanks

 

[apana]

sorry if I offended The111, but I grew up in Hawaii, I surfed for 12 years. I surf 10 foot waves (measuring from the back) and it does not keep you down long. It only seems that way from all the commotion. I guess its fair to say not anything, but big enough waves to get you sponsered. so The111, dont quote me on big surf, because i come from the land of the best surf.

 

[apana]

and for wallace... here you go...http://www.chbf.com/satt/menu.htm

 

[The111]

Originally posted by apana
sorry if I offended The111, but I grew up in Hawaii, I surfed for 12 years. I surf 10 foot waves (measuring from the back) and it does not keep you down long. It only seems that way from all the commotion. I guess its fair to say not anything, but big enough waves to get you sponsered. so The111, dont quote me on big surf, because i come from the land of the best surf.

No offense man. Biggest waves I've surfed were 8-10' in Costa Rica but very thick walls, and I'd say 10 seconds sounds about right. But to say if you can stay under for 10 seconds you could surf ANY WAVE... well, talk to some big wave surfers and I guarantee you they get held under a LOT longer. For most "normal" surfers your statement is true.