My speargun has a hole in the butt that can be used to attach a ring that a floatline can be hooked onto. Currently I have this ring crimped together with a vise. Is this sufficient or should the ring be crimped with some sort of crimping device? I would like this ring to be as strong as the floatline which is 400 lb. I don't know if my terminology is correct so attached is a diagram.
Monday, May 17, 2021
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How to properly crimp a ring to the butt of speargun
- Thread starter lonestar
- Start date
Thread Status: Hello
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Lonestar
Always use proper crimping pliers for crimps if you want secure crimps if you dont have them any tackle store that sells game fishing gear will or your dive shop may or any one who fishes for shars or marlin etc find one of these guys to crimp it for you.
However I would prefer to fit some decent rope through that hole and crimp on a shark clip or if you have the clip on your float line just use rope with a loop spliced onto gun and another loop spliced to att. clip to.
If you have the rope spliced to your gun with a shark clip spliced on it at the right length you can clip it to the bridles on your rubbers and us it as a sling to carry your gun when your hands are full of other gear and fish
Peter
PS I hope you can understand what I mean.
Always use proper crimping pliers for crimps if you want secure crimps if you dont have them any tackle store that sells game fishing gear will or your dive shop may or any one who fishes for shars or marlin etc find one of these guys to crimp it for you.
However I would prefer to fit some decent rope through that hole and crimp on a shark clip or if you have the clip on your float line just use rope with a loop spliced onto gun and another loop spliced to att. clip to.
If you have the rope spliced to your gun with a shark clip spliced on it at the right length you can clip it to the bridles on your rubbers and us it as a sling to carry your gun when your hands are full of other gear and fish
Peter
PS I hope you can understand what I mean.
Will this device work for this sort of crimp? http://popularmechanics.com/home_im...ein_pliers/images/lg_sidecuttingpliers_lg.jpg
Also, should the crimp groove go parallel to the ring wires or should it intersect them?
Also, should the crimp groove go parallel to the ring wires or should it intersect them?
Attachments
I use 400lb multi-braid tied with double prussik knots. any of you SRT or Swiftwater Rescue types should know the knot. they tighten on themselves and I have NEVER had one come undone or break. nice smooth knot that doesn't lend itself to snags or hang-ups.
I'll try and post a picture.
I'll try and post a picture.
Lonestar,
Amphibious' suggestion is a good one, but you could stick with the crimping method. I'm a technical director at a theater and we do a lot of rigging here. In our industry a crimping tool is usually refered to either as a swaging tool or nicopress tool. I use a hand held multi-cavity swaging tool. We use it often to create a termination (or loop) at the end of wire rope (or aircraft cable) using a thimble to protect the integrity of the loop and a copper or aluminum oval swage fitting (nicopress sleeve) to secure the termination. Properly done, strength and security would never be an issue (I've flown scenery and people using this technology) unless sea corrosion comes into play. I would try using coated 1/16" wire rope or aircraft cable (often interchangeable terms) and 1/16" copper nicopress sleeves. Sound confusing? Feel free to contact me for any help. Also you might try contacting a theatrical rigger (we have the tools and are usually more than happy to share our experience in situations like this) in your area or perhaps go to a marine hardware shop. For pictures of some of the hardware I've been talking about try: www.sapsis-rigging.com. Other suggestions above are good to. Good luck.
Amphibious' suggestion is a good one, but you could stick with the crimping method. I'm a technical director at a theater and we do a lot of rigging here. In our industry a crimping tool is usually refered to either as a swaging tool or nicopress tool. I use a hand held multi-cavity swaging tool. We use it often to create a termination (or loop) at the end of wire rope (or aircraft cable) using a thimble to protect the integrity of the loop and a copper or aluminum oval swage fitting (nicopress sleeve) to secure the termination. Properly done, strength and security would never be an issue (I've flown scenery and people using this technology) unless sea corrosion comes into play. I would try using coated 1/16" wire rope or aircraft cable (often interchangeable terms) and 1/16" copper nicopress sleeves. Sound confusing? Feel free to contact me for any help. Also you might try contacting a theatrical rigger (we have the tools and are usually more than happy to share our experience in situations like this) in your area or perhaps go to a marine hardware shop. For pictures of some of the hardware I've been talking about try: www.sapsis-rigging.com. Other suggestions above are good to. Good luck.
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The easiest way to use the hole in the butt for a shooting line attachment is to get a rope that has a diameter just smaller than the hole with a spliced loop on one end. Thread it through and make a knot in the non-spliced end to stop it slipping back through. A figure 8 knot works best. That way you avoid crimp failure and a nice thick rope is stronger than the floatline.
if your gun is made out of wood. You should try using poly cord and wrap it around itself. this way you dont have a crimp that can bite into and damage your wood. after you wrap the cord around itself, splice it and burn the excess to have a nice seal. this wont come off and is very strong.
I have a riffe comp 3 and the store that I bought it from put it on for me. He gave me the same explanation of why to use the poly cord as opposed to mono and crimp as I have just given you.
dive safe
I have a riffe comp 3 and the store that I bought it from put it on for me. He gave me the same explanation of why to use the poly cord as opposed to mono and crimp as I have just given you.
dive safe
Howdy Lonestar. My compliments on your art work.
Always, as in ALWAYS make your crimps as in your parallel drawing. Crimping across the line will weaken it if it doesn't outright crush it and form the weakspot.
While splicing a piece of polypropelene line in a ring is fine and all, I've been very satisfied with using the same 1/16" coated cable that I use for the shooting line. Before I crimp it with the correct size crimp, and that's an important point in itself, I slip a piece of heat shrink tube on the cable, make the crimp and seal the heat shrink over the crimp. Nice coverage for the scratches the crimp might make and it lets whatever slide right by it without hangup.. Dakine and cheap.
If you're just making a single crimp on an emergency basis and don't let this come back on me... you can crimp with a dull pair of endcutters, dykes or a couple of lesbians :girlie But again, you didn't hear that from me.
Always, as in ALWAYS make your crimps as in your parallel drawing. Crimping across the line will weaken it if it doesn't outright crush it and form the weakspot.
While splicing a piece of polypropelene line in a ring is fine and all, I've been very satisfied with using the same 1/16" coated cable that I use for the shooting line. Before I crimp it with the correct size crimp, and that's an important point in itself, I slip a piece of heat shrink tube on the cable, make the crimp and seal the heat shrink over the crimp. Nice coverage for the scratches the crimp might make and it lets whatever slide right by it without hangup.. Dakine and cheap.
If you're just making a single crimp on an emergency basis and don't let this come back on me... you can crimp with a dull pair of endcutters, dykes or a couple of lesbians :girlie But again, you didn't hear that from me.
The way I have my guns set up is to make a loop like in your first picture, Lonestar. I use 3mm three strand twisted polypropylene for this and join the ends together with a Double Uni (Line to Line Uni). http://www.netknots.com/html/fishing_knots.html
This loop is only to hang the gun from my float for the times when I need both hands free.
While I'm hunting I use a set up very close to the one described by Shadowkiller. I use two lengths of floatline, 20M and 10M at different times. All the lines I'm about to describe are polypropylene three strand twisted. The floatlines are 6mm. I have found that 9mm fits perfectly through the hole in the butt of my Riffes. Even with the 3mm already there. For the 20M floatlines I join the 6mm to a 1M length of 9mm with a short splice http://www.neropes.com/splice/sp74_3-strand_end_for_end_short.htm
For the 10M floatlines I use a Double Uni to join the 6mm and 1M of 9mm. The difference is just to make the two different lengths quickly identifiable. Then when I'm ready to go in the water I run the end of the 9mm through the hole and tie it off with a figure 8 knot http://www.mistral.co.uk/42brghtn/knots/42ktfig8.html
This loop is only to hang the gun from my float for the times when I need both hands free.
While I'm hunting I use a set up very close to the one described by Shadowkiller. I use two lengths of floatline, 20M and 10M at different times. All the lines I'm about to describe are polypropylene three strand twisted. The floatlines are 6mm. I have found that 9mm fits perfectly through the hole in the butt of my Riffes. Even with the 3mm already there. For the 20M floatlines I join the 6mm to a 1M length of 9mm with a short splice http://www.neropes.com/splice/sp74_3-strand_end_for_end_short.htm
For the 10M floatlines I use a Double Uni to join the 6mm and 1M of 9mm. The difference is just to make the two different lengths quickly identifiable. Then when I'm ready to go in the water I run the end of the 9mm through the hole and tie it off with a figure 8 knot http://www.mistral.co.uk/42brghtn/knots/42ktfig8.html
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