Dublin does Beara; again.
Three marathon days of driving by Pedro "Portugese Man of Underwater Warfare" Benza; Beara Peninsula's premiere tour-guide-cum-spearfishing-charter operator!
Premier jour:
Pedro picks me up around 11am. To say we took the scenic route to get to Beara would be an understatement. Even more understated than I am - and that's going some. Drove down the N11 to Gorey, and proceeded to follow the coastline all the way to Cork. If we saw a Motorway; we shunned it. If we inadventently stumbled onto a National road, we'd veer off it immediately and beeline towards the nearest Regional road, or preferably, a road with plenty of grass in the middle. Hire cars; nothing handles like a hire car, eh?
After getting a late lunch in Dungarvin, we were on to hitting Cork hotspots like Midleton and Cobh. From there, the rural driving got even more fierce - Kinsale, Old Head, Courtmacsherry, Clonakilty, Dundeady, Skibereen and Baltimore - stopping at each spot to speculate as to the number of scallops each bay was currently holding.
Once in Baltimore, we had decided it was enough of the Mr Nice Spearo routine, and it was time to get some Baltimore scallops. Um. Yeah. It was about 8pm when we got in the water, so, yes, a dive was long overdue. The hour was late, but the vis was good and the ocean very still. And the scallops; man, they were exactly
nowhere to be found. I was in first (aside: obviously; I'm diving with Pedro - he takes half of his worldly possessions on every dive and it takes him about 30 minutes longer than everyone else to get in) and found a lone scallop about 50mm in width. And that was it. This was
not the West Cork I'd been looking for. Pedro noted that watching me swim in a grid and not actually dive for the first hour and a half before he got in (jokes; it was only about 15 minutes - he didn't need his flutterboard for scallop diving) that there probably weren't any scallops in the area. Hoof prints in the sand where scallops
had been; yes. Scallops; no.
There was, however, a preponderance of large Velvet crab which was nice to see. I got out after an hour of fruitless searching with nothing to show for it. Pedro, being Pedro, stayed in, disappeared around a corner and out of eyeshot and all was silent. About half an hour later, he was back and moving awkwardly through the water for someone of Pedro's diving pedigree. As he got closer it became obvious that he was cuddling a large pile of Spider crabs to his chest. Pedro emerges with six large Spider crabs - one very large male there, too. Hurrah. So all is not lost - if life gives you lemons, Pedro takes the lemons and turns them into half a dozen Spider crabs. Had I been as entrepreneurial as Pedro, I would have spent an hour collecting Velvet crab. Curses. Anyway, we get changed and race back into Baltimore township, with the good fortune to find a restaurant still serving food at 10pm! That was lucky. We back-track to our B&B in Skibereen and collapse into bed around midnight :blackeye
Deux jours:
Fuelled with a breakfast of various parts of a pig's anatomy, we hit the road at about 10am, passing through Bantry and Glengarriff, after which we were safe - there was no chance we'd hit a National road now for at least a couple of days! Soon we stumbled upon the Hungry Hill Lodge. Alas, they were full up, so we couldn't stay there, but, it must be said - they have the Best Beer Garden in the World (voiced a-la Jeremy Clarkson). It was still only the morning, but it made me want to light up one of the fire pits and grab a pint. I assume Neal made a fire there?
From there it was on to Castletownbere, where much speculation as to the distribution and location of these elusive West Cork scallops was undertaken. Bere Island looks good; right? I digress. We dribbled on around the coastline and made our way down to Dursey Island (plenty of algal bloom in the water there) and made our way up to Allihies; our dive site for the day. Again, we were just able to tuck-in out of the NW wind, get changed and hit the water. I was pretty excited - this is the noteworthy site from whence half the Irish DB forum have liberated large Triggerfish - I really wanted to get a Triggerfish, as I've not got one before.
I've been in for about 3 minutes, and I'm in about 3m of water, and dive down to lie on the sand, and what do I see staring at me but a small John Dory; "You stupid fish," I think to myself, back off slightly and skewer him. Like, proper skewer. I've never seen a Dory in Irish waters before; I was beginning to think it was a myth. The thought had flicked through my head to wait for Pedro to come over and see the Johnnie, as they are notoriously hard to spot, and luckily, even more notoriously hard to scare - they might speed away if confronted, but it'll only be for 10 feet or so; you'll get 'em in the end - but it's Pedro, right; he was going to take at least another 45 minutes getting his gear on and making his way into the water - even I don't think I could have resisted the temptation to shot a Johnnie, even though Pedro hadn't seen one underwater before or heard their death rattle (to let the cat out of the bag, they make boar-like sound until you knife them -
). It's not a Triggerfish, but it is another great species - my favourite eating fish in the world.
So Pedro is in the water and we head off to some rocks, but about an hour into my dive I'm getting pretty cold and decide to turn back. Proper cold. Damn unsuitable choice of suit. I had my chances on the way back in with some large Pollack and some nice-looking mullet, but I was cold and no longer making a predator, so I won't say the area wasn't fishy - it did have large Wrasse, but it was pretty lite on sea life given it is the middle of summer. Obviously, Pedro comes back in about an hour later and his flutterboard is being weighed down by two Pollack and a Wrasse; one of the Pollack was bloody massive, alas I don't have a photo of it. Biggest I've seen. We were both a little disappointed with the dive - the scenery is fanastic for freediving, but the fish were not playing the game. West Cork scenic trip = A+; West Cork spearfishing = C+, bare pass; we must try harder.
We back track from Allihies to Castletownbere and find a B&B, grab a shower, head out of dinner at the right-sociable hour of 9pm. Phew. All the sightseeing is knackering me.
De trois jours:
Fuelled again with another breakfast of various parts of a pig's anatomy and starting from Castletownbere, we drive to a spot that I'd identified might be good for scallops from the previous day. Pedro was sceptical as to the worthiness of the dive site, as he's been there before and it never crossed his mind to dive there, but I convince him it's worth a gamble.
We suit up; I wear as much neoprene as I can muster so I don't get cold and make my way into the water (obviously before Pedro). Once I'm in about 3m of water and again for only about 3 minutes, I've already spotted a scallop, and I hold it up for Pedro to see that we've hit finally West Cork Gold!

Hurrah. Pedro has never seen a scallop underwater before and is not really sure what he's looking for, so I push my gun into the sand and tell him to make his way over. When he gets there, I say to him "I've dropped my gun next to two scallops; can you go pick them up for me?". Pedro spies my gun, dives down and picks up the two scallops which are visible from the surface, and then another one which I hadn't spotted. Dammit! Typical bloody Pedro. Shows me up his first dive,
and has the good grace not to rub it in! :blackeye "Well, I'm not going to give him anymore tips from an old pro," I say to myself and swim off. For the good it does. Within 30 minutes, we've both collected a couple dozen scallops each and Pedro's flutterboard is fair groaning with the weight. Pedro didn't need any help - honestly, he was like a bloodhound let off a leash.
We transformed back into sightseeing mode, and drove back round to Allihies and onto Eyeries, and Lough Lauragh where we made a nice little BBQ and cooked a half dozen scallops in their shells. Very tasty. Alas, time was against us, and we had to make our way back to the Pale. We went over the spectacular Healy's Pass to get back Rebel-side, then sped back along the N25 and N11 back to Dublin, arriving sometime after 11pm.
Great trip. Fantastic scenery. Quality spearfishing. A massive thanks to Pedro for organising a fantastic trip to Beara Peninsula! :blackeye