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lbs of pull for breakaway rig

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.

defofthecrown

Morone saxatilis
Mar 8, 2003
298
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0
45
I just finnished building a fiberglass breakaway rig for my rabitech 120. I rigged up a length of tubing and w/ a scale measured a pull of 8lbs to release the rubber. Please let me know what readings you guys get for factory made releases in lbs (euro's, riffe's, wongs etc).


Also shooting a single 20mm band, 7mm shaft and three wraps if it makes a difference.

Thanks,
Chris
 
Hiya

I'm interested is seeing how you did that. Any possibilities of posting some pictures??

Thanx

miles
 
No digi. camera, however I'll try and get someone else to post photos (that same someone who was supposed to post the photos of my body board float, someone....John...).

Miles, any reading for your rigs?
 
My breakaways are simple and easy. At the end of the shaft line, I end it about 4 inches short of the line release, form a loop and crimp. I then loop a small bungie through the looped mono and tie it off a couple inches short of the line release. I pull the bungie loop and slip it over the line release. The end of my tagline has a trollers swivel or small tuna clip, which I clip to the looped mono. With this system, the shaft will breakaway on every shot without worry of breakaway lbs. of pull. I have pics of my Rob Allen and KES spearguns for those interested. I don't have a website to post. Can someone post for me? Thanks.
 
Hi

I have all my breakaways rigged like uluapoundr . Simple system. Only hassle is when you reload. That said, i seldom use a breakaway system, as most of my spearing is done with a Omer Pelagic reel on my gun.

Just curious as to how you made it!!!! Always on the look-out to try new ideas!!!

Regards
miles
 
Hiya

Break-away pictures as requested!!!
 

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Pictured is the boingie/bungie that is tied to the shooting line. A crimp on the shootingline stops the boingie from being too close to the line release mech.
 

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Close up of above-mentioned crimp and boingie.

Note: my gun is rigged with a double wrap of shooting line, hence all the line below the barrel!!! You could use a single wrap of line and instead of tying it to your muzzle, simply make the line a bit longer, now wrap around the muzzle and use boingie and tie off to the line release. Easier loading and less tangles this way.
 

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Thanks alot Miles,

I needed some ideas to do just that...Thanks.

Uluapoundr use the "post reply" link for writting the replies and in that page you have a way to upload images and attach them to your post (look at image).

Cheers,
 

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KES with bungie cord breakaway, cheap, simple, effective.
 

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hi
is basicly the same solution. very simple!

thanx for the pics :)

@uluapoundr, what kind of gun is your? is that a home made gun?
 
The first gun is a "KES" which is made by Peter Kesby in Australia. Do an internet search for his website. Hanapaa Hawaii also carries KES spearguns. These guns have a smaller barrel due to the multiple laminate design. It shoots really well when weight is added to the rear of the gun.

The second gun is obviously a Rob Allen....120cm.
 
Using a breakaway rig ( novice question)

I have never used a gun with floatline rigging, thus a very novice question..
How do you keep the float from pulling your gun when doing aspetto?
I figured that the waves and the current would move the float which would then start pulling the floatline which is connected to your gun. Doesn't this screw your aim?

Tuomo
 
Tuomo,
In strong current/wind, the float and tagline does pull on the gun and can screw up a shot. Sometimes I pull all my float line to me before making a drop so that I have some time before the float pulls the line and the gun. I've also held the float line with my left hand while shooting with my right hand. Or, have a nice buddy, hold your float or line so that it doesn't screw up your shot.
 
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