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'Mag Track' by Riffe dose it work?

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
My first expeirence with the Mag-Track was with a Riffe Euro 100X. I really like the concept for freeshafting. Sense then I have installed magnets on four other open track/muzzle guns of mine. I do shoot both freeshaft and lineshaft, pending on what type of hunting I'm doing, bottom or upper water colum. I am not up to snuff on the shaft compositions as others have posted, but this is what I have expeirenced:

I have used all sorts of shafts i.e., Riffe, Mori, KJ, Ray Oder and I have not had any issues with them shooting poorly from my Mag-Track guns.

As far as them being "slowed down" due to magnets? I guess by some way the Law of Physics does play a roll in it, but it is not enough that the fish or myself would notice. It would be like shooting a deer at 50 yards with either a 7mm/08 or a 7mm Ultra Mag, both using 140 gr. bullets. The deer doesn't know which one killed him the best . . . he's dead just the same.

Is it a sales gimic? Sure it is . . . but it is a useful one, for open track/muzzle guns. I really like the concept for poking over ledges, looking in holes or hatch areas on wreck. I can be upside down and my shaft stays put. It is also nice for those rough days on the surface re-stringing your linegun.

www.magnets4less.com - 3/8"X3/8" epoxy coated Neodymium Disc magnets with a 12 lb. pull force. These are the ones I use on my guns.

rofl roflAND THAT IS MY $.02 rofl rofl
 
Hello to all! I don't own a Riffe. I do agreed with ferris, however could the magnets be used as counter balance on the gun itself. Plus the cheaper the quality of ssteel, the more it reacts to the magnets.
 
Plus the cheaper the quality of ssteel, the more it reacts to the magnets.

Negative. There are cheap steels (like 303) that are non-magnetic, and pretty expensive ones (like 17-4) that are quite magnetic.
 
My first expeirence with the Mag-Track was with a Riffe Euro 100X. I really like the concept for freeshafting. Sense then I have installed magnets on four other open track/muzzle guns of mine. I do shoot both freeshaft and lineshaft, pending on what type of hunting I'm doing, bottom or upper water colum. I am not up to snuff on the shaft compositions as others have posted, but this is what I have expeirenced:

I have used all sorts of shafts i.e., Riffe, Mori, KJ, Ray Oder and I have not had any issues with them shooting poorly from my Mag-Track guns.

As far as them being "slowed down" due to magnets? I guess by some way the Law of Physics does play a roll in it, but it is not enough that the fish or myself would notice. It would be like shooting a deer at 50 yards with either a 7mm/08 or a 7mm Ultra Mag, both using 140 gr. bullets. The deer doesn't know which one killed him the best . . . he's dead just the same.

Is it a sales gimic? Sure it is . . . but it is a useful one, for open track/muzzle guns. I really like the concept for poking over ledges, looking in holes or hatch areas on wreck. I can be upside down and my shaft stays put. It is also nice for those rough days on the surface re-stringing your linegun.

www.magnets4less.com - 3/8"X3/8" epoxy coated Neodymium Disc magnets with a 12 lb. pull force. These are the ones I use on my guns.

rofl roflAND THAT IS MY $.02 rofl rofl

Thank you for you $0.02 cense however due to inflation we will have to increase that to $0.05 sorry for any inconvenience = )

I agree with the idea that if you had no shooting line that it "may" help with open muzzle guns but it would have to be a very strong magnet to be able to hold the weight of the shaft if turned upside down but could work.
But I still think that the bands pressure does a great deal of this not the small weak magnet that is in the gun. Because who dives without a loaded gun!
magnets would be useful if they were along the length of the whole gun for a non shooting line fan but as I said before if you somehow do a bad shot and the fish swims of with your shaft you'll be more than red faced!
Thank you for the link the site looks good those magnets are quite strong!
 
Hello to all! I don't own a Riffe. I do agreed with ferris, however could the magnets be used as counter balance on the gun itself. Plus the cheaper the quality of ssteel, the more it reacts to the magnets.

Hi mate thanks for joining in on the thread!!!!
:)
 
Negative. There are cheap steels (like 303) that are non-magnetic, and pretty expensive ones (like 17-4) that are quite magnetic.

Hi tin man glad your still around
:) your input is always welcome.

You are both right to answer the S/S price part. as for your answer yes being magnetic (ferrous) does not always indicate cheapness, But also the most expensive S/S is no magnetic (non ferrous) such as super-austenitic which is probably the most expensive.
So you are both right, 'yay for science' :t

kind regards Ferris:)
 
I guess it might be best to ask when you consider a stainless steel to no longer be a steel? For example, 304 and 316 are about 70% iron or so. As the percentage of alloy goes up (more nickel, chrome, molybdenum, niobium, titanium, copper, etc), then the amount of iron goes down and the "steel" gets more expensive. Alloys like Inconnel (10% iron) and Alloy-20 (about 35% iron) are crazy expensive, and also very very corrosion resistant to a wide range of chemicals. But then again, it would not be unfair to say that they really don't count as "steel"
 
I guess it might be best to ask when you consider a stainless steel to no longer be a steel? For example, 304 and 316 are about 70% iron or so. As the percentage of alloy goes up (more nickel, chrome, molybdenum, niobium, titanium, copper, etc), then the amount of iron goes down and the "steel" gets more expensive. Alloys like Inconnel (10% iron) and Alloy-20 (about 35% iron) are crazy expensive, and also very very corrosion resistant to a wide range of chemicals. But then again, it would not be unfair to say that they really don't count as "steel"

Good point tin man it does seem a stretch to still call some steel anymore as it really just becomes a complete alloy doesn't it!

Hmm maybe gold plated would be a good idea never corrode or rust then:)
Just a bit expensive though maybe lol rofl
 
Thank you for you $0.02 cense however due to inflation we will have to increase that to $0.05 sorry for any inconvenience = )

I agree with the idea that if you had no shooting line that it "may" help with open muzzle guns but it would have to be a very strong magnet to be able to hold the weight of the shaft if turned upside down but could work.
But I still think that the bands pressure does a great deal of this not the small weak magnet that is in the gun. Because who dives without a loaded gun!
magnets would be useful if they were along the length of the whole gun for a non shooting line fan but as I said before if you somehow do a bad shot and the fish swims of with your shaft you'll be more than red faced!
Thank you for the link the site looks good those magnets are quite strong!

There is only one magnet in these guns and it is located under the line anchor at the forward end of the gun . . . from the factory and on the ones I have installed. And YES - it will hold a 5/16" X 60" shaft with a slip-tip, bands uncocked, upside down ! ! ! NO S*@T ! ! ! There is no need for any more than that. I have taken the magnets that I ordered and held a shaft freely with just the magnet in my finger tips. You get a chance sometime and drop by a dive shop that carries Riffes and see for yourself just how strong the "little weak magnet" really is. Hold it upside down and shake it a few times to . . . then get back with us. I promiss you will be surprised ! ! !
 
There is only one magnet in these guns and it is located under the line anchor at the forward end of the gun . . . from the factory and on the ones I have installed. And YES - it will hold a 5/16" X 60" shaft with a slip-tip, bands uncocked, upside down ! ! ! NO S*@T ! ! ! There is no need for any more than that. I have taken the magnets that I ordered and held a shaft freely with just the magnet in my finger tips. You get a chance sometime and drop by a dive shop that carries Riffes and see for yourself just how strong the "little weak magnet" really is. Hold it upside down and shake it a few times to . . . then get back with us. I promiss you will be surprised ! ! !

Thanks for the reply mate will do. That sounds quite strong! If that is the case then for the purpose of not using a shooting line it sounds really good but Im still not sold on the shooting line version. I would like to do some vigorous testing of both uses and see how much difference if any it makes with the line but for use without a shooting line I will subtract my argument and give you that one as I am sure you have no need to lie.

Once again thanks for your reply and just so you know I would love a Riffe euro I ahve said before and will say again that I believe Riffe to be one of the finest available spearguns in the world.
 
Hi Capt. Offshore, I have some questions regarding your procedure of retrofitting your guns with magnets.

I'm pretty much convinced that I want to do this to my Sea Hornet so that I can convert to open muzzle.

I sent you a PM, as it may be easier to respond over the phone, but here are some of my questions:
  • How are your self-installs holding up? Have you had any trouble with corrosion or with the shaft rubbing through the magnet's coating after repeated firing?
  • Have you had any issues with them falling out due to the wood expanding and contracting around them?
  • how you did mount them? Did you just epoxy them in? Coated over top, or top left exposed?
  • When the shaft is loaded, does it actually touch the magnet or did you sink the magnet far enough in so that there is a gap?
Thanks for your time.
 
just glue them with epoxy, that is what i do i all my guns

there are 2 types of magnets, ones are black and the base metal is iron and they rust a lot , others are silver , made from magnetite , they don´t rust
i use small barrels, around 4 mm diameter , and make a small hole and glue them
 
Thanks, pvilela! A few more questions, if you could give me your opinions / advice:

When the shaft is loaded, does it actually touch the magnet or did you sink the magnet far enough in so that there is a gap?

When the shaft is fired, and the back of it drops just a little as it comes out of the trigger mech, does the shaft ever touch the magnet / expoxy coating of the magnet?

What is the "lbs of pull" rating of the magnets you use?

Is there any need for a retaining bungee for use when the gun is in a boat rack in transit on rough waters, or does your magnet configuration hold the shaft in-place during vigorous shaking / jolting?

Thanks so much!
 
Tyson
they don´t touch the shaft, and as guns are made fro mahogany or teak, i normally use a epoxy coat over the gun, so magnet will be covered by epoxy.
I don´t know the magnet pull down, but is much more strong then iron base ones.
I use them for helping me rigging big guns, shaft will stay in place while i pass shaft line
i hope it helps
 

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Nice Thread, good discussion. I have a Euro 120, Awesome gun love it to death.
I have a mag track, It does work, and my shaft does not rust, if had it for 12 months and the most maintenance I have done is hose down the gun when I get home. The magnetic force on the shaft is insignificant, as in if it was not there I do not believe it would affect my spearing experience.
The shaft on my euro is awesome, I have done unspeakable things to it and i can stone coral trout from 4 metres away at will, last week unicorned a 30kg Spanish and saw the shaft bend 90 degrees as it ran. Crapped my pants thought I ruined my shaft, got it back looked brand new. What metal is it? some type of stainless steel spring steel? i have no idea. But its awesome.
So in summary mag track works, but it is also a gimmick. You are right but you are wrong, This is how life is.
 
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