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Mares Cyrano 85Cm Pneumatic, a closer look.

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.


Mr. Long Post
Apr 22, 2002

If anyone out there has interest in owning a pneumatic or considering one, I hope this little info might help you.

I just got this today because I can bear to hear all the Euro Gun talk on this forum. My hands just get itchy. I am very familiar with pneumatic, already ruined 5 in my time. About the time I gave up on pneumatic years ago, this Cyrano just came to the market. Those days it was the Mares Stern. I had the opportunity of ruining and enjoying very much 3 Scubapro pneumatics, unfortunately it is discountinued now. Mares Stern in my days could not match the better built Scubapro units. I ripped these guns apart so often, sometime other owners came to me for repair instead of the local dealer. I also had the opporturtunity of being given from a friend :)D I have nice & generous friends ) a SeaBear Russian made pneumatic, small front barrel and big air reservoir at the rear. Supposedly ex military design with titanium piston for higher operating pressure, so said the manual. It was purchased in Miami in 1996. He doesn't like it's poor balance underwater, so gave it to me. This is the junk of the junk. Not only it is heavy underwater, the trigger pull is damn heavy you probably need to aim left to shoot right, for a right hander. Anyway I gave that away to someone eventualy.

Why I gave up using all the pneu was because I pumped them 20% over the reccomended presssure limit all the time, they just could not stand the abuse. I was getting so good at loading them I keep pumping extra air in to it , hoping to get more power.

At one time I had the gun under the sun too long ( :naughty never-never do this on a pneu ) and took it under water, I loaded it and the seal exploded of its piston seat, lucky the gun did not explode, just the seals.

Anyway I am trying to enjoy Euro guns again, so instead of a single 18 or 20mm rubber guns, I choose a pneumatic because I am very familiar with it.

I chose the Cyrano because it is a beefed up and more advance unit over the Stern and averagely 20% more efficient than a other pneu on the market , so said the manual. However the operating pressure is different, now the Cyrano operates at 30 BAR / 441 psi. A luxury a pneu never offered me those days. Also the amount of pump stroke from empty to full 30 BAR is 710 pumps stroke for this 85cm model, the same sized Stern only needed 350 or so , with the same pump diameter. The Scubapro was also never operating at this higher pressure.

The advantage will be to a 30 meter diver, that this gun should still be decently powerful even at a loss of 4 BAR from water pressure.

Anyway I like certain new features never before available on my old pneu-s.

01. The big orange trigger safety is better than the old push in push out, you sometime forgot which position is "Fire". The photo shows a "Fire" position, in "LOCK" position the big orange plastic bar will swing into position to obstruct a finger from pressing the trigger. Also there is a built in hidden notch within the big orange safety bar that locks the trigger from being able to be pushed, well thought feature. Even a moron can tell a "LOCK".

02. See : top photo the lump on top of the pistol grip/handle exactly much above the orange safety, that is the rear aiming sight. See the bottom photo : the little yellow dot is the front aiming sight. This is a very useful feature because pneu can take advantage of these aiming sights, they are very accurate. The Stern and the Scubapro was excellent.

03. Overall construction, on the outside untill I ripped them a part............ is much better than what I ever owned years ago.
I do hope Mares follow technological improvements available these days.

04. Even out of the water the gun is so light, it must be a dream to swing like the older model, dimension wise not much change.

The old Stern uses steel shaft, the Cyrano is the same Cheapo shaft material they now call Harmonic Steel but painted dark instead of galvanized, 7mm. I think the spearhead is also regular steel . The Scubapro has been using the 8mm 17-4 spring stainless steel, the kind of shaft proper for underwater work.

How does it perform in water ?
Sorry, go to wait till I take her in the water. Maybe this weekend.

Do I reccomend this to everyone ?
If you ever decide to buy a pneu, I have to let you know ahead that : ( Based on my old pneu )

AA. These guns need more maintenance because of the mutiple seals involved.

BB. The first thing to wear off will be the piston seals. There are two seals, one is a dirt-kicking-seal and the other is air-tight seal.
Never never allow dirt into the barrel. The speeding piston will stratch the seals and the barrel big time.

CC. The small lever you see behind the orange safety bar/lever is the High/Low power selector. YEP, the luxury of choosing power in just a flip by the finger. This lever move forward and then down for lower power, what you see on the photo is high power mode. This mini lever uses two O-Rings. This O rings will give you trouble, eventually if not replaced when due. This power selector lever actually operate a sort of a valve which separate the air between the shooting barrel ( low power ) and the entire air reservoir main tube and the shooting barrel ( high power ). If you overpower/overpumped this gun, this valve will stick because the sealing material get squeezed so bad by the extra air. Thus you will get low power setting all the time. The fix is to ripped the gun a part but CAUTION, the barrel will still keep the 30BAR of air where as the main tube will be zero pressure. Becareful of flying UFO-s !!! These power selector lever uses clockwise turn for loosening, not a regular anti-clockwsie hand turn. It is a two piece actually, one of the L shape and a thin long rod. Give it to your dealer for service, much safer.
BTW, if a high power setting is like say a 16mm x 2 bands, the lower setting is like 12mm x 1 band equivalent.

DD. The trigger is actually a mini rod/shaft that uses two O-rings to seal air. They will fail too one day.

EE. The barrel is aluminum and it has to corrode one day. You don't need major corrossion, all you need it material pitting and then bye-bye air.......... bit by bit you loose air when loading and shooting. I estimate a 400-500 hours of this gun in sea water in loaded/cocked position is about maximum. When cocked, the barrel gets into contact with sea water.

AA to DD can be dealt with the annual maintenance. DD depend on how often you are in the water.

My personal opinion :

Any pneu is tha fastest gun to load, if you are good at it, even when compared to a single band Euro gun. You can even load while swimming after a fish... this I can do.

Becareful when you load, since this is the only gun that has the muzzle actually close to your face when loading. A slip on the special plastic loader can be fatal if the shaft is heading at your face.

Me, I love it. Have always love using it for suitable sized fish.

Have Fun,
Short in water test..........

Since there are 30 views on this thread, I might as well add some info for those curious ones.

A few things I found out about this gun during a short in water test :

01. I have not set the gun to 30 Bar/441 psi, I just added 100 pumps to it. It is supposed to be charged at factory between 15 to 23 BAR. I am still short of anything from 200 to 100 more pumps. Judging from the loading effort, it was too easy, I guess I am +-200 pumps away to maximum. Surely it is no fun emptying the gun and do 710 pumps to do max pressure.

02. The spearhead is not steel, damn it was aluminum. How in the hell could someone make spearhead from something so soft and can't retain edge. I supposed they save a few bucks here.
I missed and shot a rock once and it was already out of shape.

03. I think I am missing a spring on the shaft . All pneu I handled before has a spring pushing the small stainless ring, just under the plastic slider where the shooting line attach itself. The spring is important to sit tight the stainless ring to "guide" exiting shaft. The manual do show pictures with and without it, confusing. Anyway, loose sitting of stainless ring is no good for accuracy and friction wise. Have to get one.

04. The piston is some polymer plastic, I think it is Derlin by the look of it.

05. I like the design of the plastic slider where the shooting line is attach. Being made of plastic, it is not the best of material but the design is such, the shooting line does not exert force on the small U hole but it makes a figure 8 around the entire radius of this slider in the given groove. A big pull by a strong fish will cause a total squeeze of the slider, not a pull on the small U hole. This never exist in the older design. Any big game gun if requiring a mettalic slider ring on the shaft should follow this design, the total stress can be put away from the usual welding point.

06. Even at a short 85cm length, given the fat air tube. This gun doesn't swing as fast as I imagined.

The story of the hunt :
Of all the trips I did to this secret rocky shoreline, it was on last Saturday that I managed to dive again it for 45 minutes, this is my second dive-able visit to my secret area. The waves were rolling in and the water visibility was real bad with all the sand and water foam. Certain part of it was still off limits due to the massive pounding from the waves. What a lousy chance. I got my ears and neck burnt, it must be from those fire corals "residue" being washed by the waves. I did not see the regular worm/string type jellyfish which loves to sting my lips. I tested the first shot on a local net fisherman favourite, a direct languange translation is "Yellow Tail", this is not the kind of pelagic yellow tail you guys know. This fish is so common in my nearby shores, a favourite for fish balls. The shot landed where I wanted, mid body.

Next, the traditional fisherman whose wooden boat I rented ordered a parrot fish for themselves to eat. So I was looking for one. When I eventualy managed to get close enough to a decent size one, it was sprinting away, I tracked it for a 90 degrees arc, shot and missed it. The surge at this 3 meters of water was spoiling my aim. I looked at the speartip and it was rather dented. I went back to the boat and managed to get a friend to file it, then I realized it was made of aluminum.

I got back in the water again, waiting for the surge to pass thru and made my way in between the rocks. Out of the foamy turbulent water, appeared a 8 pounder Blue Fin trevally, just what I like if Giant Trevallies are not around. It was confidently swimming away from me. I made short chase and aimed at the lethal shoulder area close to the eye. The shot must be less than 2.5 meters away, the fish was stoned the moment the shaft hit it, my lucky aim I guess, but the spearhead did not exit out over the other side. I was not taking chances, I did not pull the shooting line, instead I swam as fast as I could and get the shaft to push it further till the spearhead exit on the other side, just in case the fish come back to live. I managed to flee the spot when a wave hit the rocks again.

The fish was totally dead, I saw a clot of thicken blood around the shaft entry point. A first decent fish for my new Cyrano. Not bad one for this location.

The conclusion for the short test is :

AA. I will have to buy a +- 100 cm 9/32" ( 7mm ) Riffe Hawaiian shaft or sacrifice my available 50" one, cut the end part including all the welded area of the loading tabs. Custom machine a similiar Mares shaft end adaptor to sit on the piston. I don't like the poor penetration and the quality of the Mares aluminum spearhead and the ugly corroding shaft. If I do use a Riffe shaft, it will project at least double length than the original to clear the long Riffe flopper. Longer shaft might be a disadvantage during loading cause more bending will occur:head

BB. If I observe correctly, this gun currently shoot a bit to the left on longer distance. I have not done a plywood target test yet, to confirm.

CC. I used a Riffe 400 lbs mono line, 3 wraps (3.9 mtrs ) and a 5" Riffe bungie swivel. The mono diameter is not any much bigger than the original Dacron type shooting line provided with the gun but given the extreme lightweigh mini shaft length and diameter, what I rigged it with seems to be too much a drag when shot. The weight ratio must be a screw up. 200 lbs mono without the 5" bungie swivel will be a better set-up, I think. If only 500 lbs Kevlar doesn't tie knots, it will be a better alternative set up, strength wise. Suggestion anyone ?

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