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Mares Cyrano Evo HF
- Thread starterfloatingbeatle
- Start date
Thread Status: Hello
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Yes. Good point. I intend to do a pool test in the morning, so that should highlight any imperfections....then I may need Edo
You should be fine
If you have a leak, it's like just if the diameter is off or you nicked the o-ring, but if you rounded the edges of the pin, I think you'll be fine.
I am not a welder, but I know the welding sticks come in all sorts of material to match what they are welding and I think I once read that 1.6mm is a fairly common small size. So, that might be an option.
Thanks Gecko. I’ll have a look at what size rods I have in my shed. Otherwise I’ll get some anyway. They’ll always come in handy. Cheers.
This aspect is covered in my gun dismantling thread, in fact that is one of the reasons why I wrote it. https://forums.deeperblue.com/threads/pneumatic-dismantling-how-to-get-inside.90024/#post-882403 post #8. It used to be a sticky so everyone could see it.
Finished my pool session with flying colours. No leaks whatsoever. Impressed with the power. Certainly before my gun was damaged, I feel it has doubled in power! It was interesting to see that there were a couple of O-rings missing when I stripped it down completely. Since repair, it feels like a totally different gun! I would encourage any new gun owner to explore theirs, especially if it does not appear to be doing what it should. Big thanks to Gecko and Pete for your imput, and steering me in the right direction! Pete, it is a pity that your thread does not remain a sticky, however, I have bookmarked this page so I can reference whenever required.
I discovered a bent one in my Cyrano, which I straightened and put back in... not sure HOW these pins become bent as I was carefully pulling it apart, but I'd like to get some stronger 316 or 17-4PH stainless dowel pins to replace it.Yeah, anything stainless in about 1.5mm diameter should work (or 2mm or 3mm depending on your gun). I actually just buy a length of rod and cut off when I need some.
People have used welding rods and bicycle spokes before but the rivet pin, I hadn't heard about
18mm long? At least, I think I have 18mm in many of my guns - even across brands.
The gun is now repressurised but I forgot to measure the length!
So are they exactly 1.5 x 18mm?
The pin need to be spun in a drill and the ends made spherical so they pivot correctly without catching as dowel pins typically only have chamfered ends.
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Spearfishing World has pneumatic gun inner barrels, but not for Mares, however it may be worth asking them if they sell that type of spare as few others do..
http://www.spearfishingworld.com/search.php?search_query=mares+pneumatic++inner+barrel
http://www.spearfishingworld.com/search.php?search_query=mares+pneumatic++inner+barrel
https://www.edosub.it/ecommerce/ind...category_id=57&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1
Shoot Edo an email to check on shipping and that it is indeed the 1.1 barrels in that link.
He ships fast but may not be able to get a super cheap shipping price so consider adding a spear or ask other spearos near you if they need spares (he carries pretty much everything).
Thanks Gecko... today I received an upgraded Devosub muzzle/shock absorber/Delrin piston kit, and so had to depressurise my Cyrano in order to fit it.
https://www.spearfishingproducts.com.au/buy-speargun-parts-online/pneumatic-parts&grid=true/
The pins are indeed 1.5mm dia x 18mm long, with rounded ends, not chamfered.
They are not a standard dowel pin size (which ends at 16mm for this diameter), and would need to be made up from 1.5mm stainless rod... or ordered from Edosub!
https://www.spearfishingproducts.com.au/buy-speargun-parts-online/pneumatic-parts&grid=true/
The pins are indeed 1.5mm dia x 18mm long, with rounded ends, not chamfered.
They are not a standard dowel pin size (which ends at 16mm for this diameter), and would need to be made up from 1.5mm stainless rod... or ordered from Edosub!
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Well speaking of exchanging parts and reverse compatibility you would think that the trigger parts in the new blue color scheme guns would retrofit the "Cyrano Evo", but they don't! Now the only reason is that Mares must have realized that they made a terrible mistake with the Cyrano Evo's pre-tilted sear lever which anyone with experience would know means that the gun is going to shoot with just one poofteenth of movement and may not even require you to pull the trigger. Rather than admit to this big mistake and after the smoke and mirrors of the “Cyrano Evo” CGI presentation (which disguised the grim reality) has long drifted into obscurity they have changed the component geometries without a peep out of them about it.
If you have a problematic “Cyrano Evo” you can buy a new “Cyrano” rear handle assembly and a new sear lever, trigger and line release lever (all metal parts) and then throw the original items away. Salvage all the power regulator parts, the safety switch, any grub screws and various stainless steel pins and put the adjustable (fore-aft) two-piece trigger, plastic line release lever, pre-tilt sear lever and bare black rear handle molding in the trash. If you hanker to retain the orange and black bumble-bee look then you may be able to keep the butt pad’s orange section and just maybe the orange and black trigger, but I doubt the latter as the geometry problem also lies there. The fore-aft adjustable trigger is no great loss, Mares tried it on the “Competition Line” guns (fluoro green and battleship grey) and no one was that interested in it, so they left if off at the next gun color scheme change for the “Sten 87”.
If you have a problematic “Cyrano Evo” you can buy a new “Cyrano” rear handle assembly and a new sear lever, trigger and line release lever (all metal parts) and then throw the original items away. Salvage all the power regulator parts, the safety switch, any grub screws and various stainless steel pins and put the adjustable (fore-aft) two-piece trigger, plastic line release lever, pre-tilt sear lever and bare black rear handle molding in the trash. If you hanker to retain the orange and black bumble-bee look then you may be able to keep the butt pad’s orange section and just maybe the orange and black trigger, but I doubt the latter as the geometry problem also lies there. The fore-aft adjustable trigger is no great loss, Mares tried it on the “Competition Line” guns (fluoro green and battleship grey) and no one was that interested in it, so they left if off at the next gun color scheme change for the “Sten 87”.
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On another thread, but applies here as well, this is a diagram that I did once I found an image of the Cyrano Evo’s internal layout.
This is the first diagram that I saw of the then new "Cyrano Evo", I discarded the Italian labels and because English equivalents were sometimes longer I moved the arrows/lines around that pointed to various parts.
One glance at the sear lever angle and I knew that there would be problems and I wondered how this arrangement got the nod to be produced.
The diagram below is how the gun should have looked in the first place.
It is possible this was the original intention, but then they found that the horizontal tip on the trigger front arm extension did not clear the line release lever sufficiently, so they lengthened the trigger transmission pin to increase the downward sweep of the trigger front arm extension's travel arc when the piston was released and then the world fell in on them. This is because when single-piece triggers tilt the force acting on the trigger coming through contact with the mushroom head moves the force vector up towards the sear lever pivot pin, which is also the trigger which in a sense is flattened out and the closing torque therefore reduces. That closing torque is all that keeps a single piece trigger "locked", lower it too much in magnitude and the gun goes into auto-shoot mode with no need for you to pull the trigger.
One glance at the sear lever angle and I knew that there would be problems and I wondered how this arrangement got the nod to be produced.
The diagram below is how the gun should have looked in the first place.
It is possible this was the original intention, but then they found that the horizontal tip on the trigger front arm extension did not clear the line release lever sufficiently, so they lengthened the trigger transmission pin to increase the downward sweep of the trigger front arm extension's travel arc when the piston was released and then the world fell in on them. This is because when single-piece triggers tilt the force acting on the trigger coming through contact with the mushroom head moves the force vector up towards the sear lever pivot pin, which is also the trigger which in a sense is flattened out and the closing torque therefore reduces. That closing torque is all that keeps a single piece trigger "locked", lower it too much in magnitude and the gun goes into auto-shoot mode with no need for you to pull the trigger.
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Brought to repair mares evo. Complaints about self-arrows. Made an analysis of the work of the piston and sear. The hemisphere of the piston fungus, resting against the corner of the sear during the actuation of the hook, moving in the free course all the way into the corner of the sear, bends down the sear and injures the piston! Shifted the hemisphere to a cone with a corner of the whisper - the problem is gone!
That problem is caused by ramming the spear into the barrel with a lot of force, the rear of the piston then slams into the sear lever pivot pin surrounding hump. To avoid this there used to be a small cylindrical projection on the rear of the mushroom head of some pistons, but with the retirement of experienced personnel all these things have been forgotten.
This is a "Cyrano" piston, first model, and we can see that the "Evo" guys lacked any understanding when they put together the "Devo"!
This is a "Cyrano" piston, first model, and we can see that the "Evo" guys lacked any understanding when they put together the "Devo"!
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Further work with Mares Evo disappointed me even more! There is no free travel of the pressure input rod for adjusting the hook before pressure is applied to the receiver! This is trash!
And then to add an adjustment screw in the trigger is the height of stupidity as there is no slack to adjust!
That pretty much puts the last nail in the coffin of the black and orange "Cyrano Evo", however by good luck some guns must be adjusted in the very tiny window of trigger movement where everything works OK for the time being, just don't change anything or slam the shaft in with some force. All the more reason to use plenty of pressure in your guns as then you can barely latch it, much less over travel the piston into the arch of the sear lever pivot pin hump.