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Muzzle holes in Euro Guns

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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fuzz

Hawaiian transplant...
Sep 9, 2002
995
74
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I've always been a proponent for open-muzzle guns, but this has been based on my own personal bias. I've lost a couple nice fish from pont blank when something went wrong & the shooting line jammed in the muzzle throwing off the shot. :waterwork

Does anyone else have this problem? I was thinking about buying a set of 4(or 5) rabitech stealths so I can have some consistency in my selection... but really don't want to go through the trouble of modifying them all to open muzzle. Is anyone else as bothered by the closed-muzzle as I am or are these just my personal "issues"?

Any insights? Does the Wabitech have a large or small opening?

Sven, I know some comment is coming about :girlie guns, but relax - I'll always have my wood too :D
 
hi

Fuzz nice choice on the guns but 4 or 5 are you loaded $$$$$ :D

I'll just go check dads wabitech and see if the muzzle is different to Rob allen.

Nope the wabitech muzzle is replica of rob allen muzzle, never found any problems that you mentioned about shooting line jamming in the muzzle.

One thing though its a pain in the ass trying to get a 1.9m spear in that little hole quickly after youve shot a fish and there are more swimming around :cool:

cheers
 
Ivan, not rich, but one of my paintball guns should cover the expense ;)

I get paintball equipment from sponsors, so at the end of the tourney year, I'm allowed to sell it & get new stuff :D

Thank you for checking Ivan - any more insight also appreciated.

Off to go diving now, but I tweaked my knee pretty bad playing basketball yesterday :(
 
fuzz,

the RA and Rabitech muzzles differ in ID only. sherryl sent me an RA muzzle for my rabitech and it didn't fit. but nevertheless, ivan got your question. ;) the key to your quest for multiple guns is this.... buy 2 guns "whole" and then purchase the other barrels, shafts, muzzles and bands you want separately. the trigger mech is what's pricey. i bought a 110cm barrel from sherryl for $35. muzzles are about $12 and stainless steel shafts about $45. what i'm trying to say is that the handles are easily interchanged. i have one handle for my 110 and 130. :t

later,
A
 
Thanks for the idea Andrsn....

Maybe I'll just pick up 2 for now ;)
 
Anderson, what guns are you using that are easy to interchange like that? I've tried to get the handle and the muzzle off my RA, but they are stuck tight. When i was doing the mods to my muzzle, i had it in a vice to try and twist it out, but it wouldnt budge. At the dive factory, they reckon you can get a muzzle off because its tougher, but you may break the handle trying to get it off the barrel.

Cheers

Mark
 
Mark,

Both Aquiles and I have rabitechs. When I first got my 130, I took it apart to see how difficult it was. It was pretty easy. I think what you'd want to do is just interchange trigger mechanisms; that's what I'm doing. :hmm

Anderson
 
How are the handles & muzzles joined?

Was thinking about my Alluminum and how they made such a big deal about the barrel/handle joint - wouldn't you put a fair amount of wear and loosen this connection over a year or more?

:confused:
 
the materials are pretty sturdy. the rabitech barrel is aluminum. i think you'd do more damage just using the gun than you would removing the handle over and over. :confused: (not that you would really damage it, but just for comparitive purposes)

A
 
Any big diff. between carbon & alum.?

I prefer carbon, but think it's just a status symbol bias more than anything else.....
 
in the omer carbon guns, there seems to be a layer of "semi-maleable" aluminum that the carbon/epoxy is formed to. at least this is the case in my master comp. the rabitech is nothing but grade A aluminum and is quite rigid. i don't see a problem w/ wear in the rab case. have you taken the omer alluminum(sp?) :t handle out yet? what's goin on inside the barrel? :hmm

A
 
actually fuzz, if you think about it... the inconsistencies of the muzzle lift, band tension, gun ballast v. shaft weight, trigger sear smoothness, and shaft line drag will far outweigh the microns of delta in flex of your barrel, so i definitely think carbon's way overrated. :hmm

A
 
Inside of the Alluminum is pure fiber from what I remember when I changed the muzzle. I love the gun - especially how it looks; however, I do think it's overrated. For the price, I could buy a couple rabitechs ;) I would not buy it again.

I agree on all those factors coming into play, but from reading the HSD article on Euro guns(for the 15th time) - the Beuchat barb throwing the accuracy off so much shows that the old adage "every little bit helps" really holds true. :D
 
Originally posted by fuzz
I agree on all those factors coming into play, but from reading the HSD article on Euro guns(for the 15th time) - the Beuchat barb throwing the accuracy off so much shows that the old adage "every little bit helps" really holds true. :D

I think the thought for the "masses" would be that if you optimized your band power to fit the ballast of the gun and the size shaft you're shooting as well as minimizing the effect of muzzle lift, you'll increase your accuracy a hundred times more than just switching to a stiffer tube. :blackeye

Anderson

DB's resident physicist :D
 
Originally posted by andrsn


I think the thought for the "masses" would be that if you optimized your band power to fit the ballast of the gun and the size shaft you're shooting as well as minimizing the effect of muzzle lift, you'll increase your accuracy a hundred times more than just switching to a stiffer tube. :blackeye

Anderson

DB's resident physicist :D


So DB physicist................ how do we do that? :hmm
 
there's a good article on my new site written by daryl wong: http://2james.net/2james.html check it out.

i think people just need to experiment. if you're shooting a heavy shaft out of your euro and want to sling it 20ft, you just have to load up on bands and brace like hell when you pull the trigger. i think the theory is you have to make up for gun ballasting with a heavy arm. ;) that's one of the main reasons why euros use thinner shafts... because they don't have the mass of the woodies.

Anderson
 
Nice article.

I noticed this when I tried one of Daryl's Euro guns. I need to bulk up to use it, the recoil was too much. Same thing goes with my converted guns. I tried using 9/16 steel shafts with heavier hi-mod bands, but it was so hard to balance between recoil & enough power to launch that heavy shaft.

One of my dive partners uses 5/8 bands on his wong, but with a slightly larger internal diameter. This makes it much smoother while maintaining more power than 9/16 bands. While range may be a foot or 2 shorter, he's always dead-on accurate. Makes me jealous :(
 
on my old gun i lost i tried using 2 16 mm bands on it and i just noticed that there was a lot of muzzle kick, at least a couple inches. Has anyone come up with a way to add more power without any muzzle kick or is it more of a technique thing? mebe a small muzzle stabilizer.
 
That's one of the reasons I was also thinking about going away from carbon...

I think my most accurate gun is my old MB Omer with no track & heavy as heck. With a 20mm band, it's still quite smooth. Probably because it's static inertia is greater.

Andrsn, is your Master Comp. relatively kick free? Just speculating from the HSD article....
 
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