Neptonics trigger

[JCooke]

I'm doing a build and got a Neptonic trigger, this is a little small.?. From trigger mech base to the top IS ONLY ONE INCH.?. The over all height is only 2 1/4 inches with the trigger lever being only a 1 1/4 inch. Now if I have a 7mm glove for Alaska this isn't going to fly.

Did I get the wrong trigger?

i wanted to do a 3-4 bander but this would be better put into a guppy speargun.

 

[DivingDane]

from what i understand the Neptonics mechs are absalute tanks so 3-4 rubbers should be fine, they just designed the mechs to be smaller so that when using a push rod assembly they didnt take up so much room in the stock. were you planning on using the mech in a eurogun style build or with a remote trigger assembly?

DD

 

[JCooke]

Oh..well I will now but I may have to replace the trigger lever and add a inch. Evan going remote trigger it doesnt leave alot of room for mounting the connecting rod. Im not worried about quality just design needs to be a little more multi fuctional if thats what its designed for.I have a small machine shop that I can give folks some options. i would like to also address the Riffe trigger handle size issue.

Which spears are need to be used with this model the rob allens dont fit?

Thanks
Jason
Alaska USA

 

[DivingDane]

pretty sure the spear type is the same as Riffe, Andre etc (square cut out) it is pretty easy to modify the RA shafts to fit (have done so for a couple mates with riffe euro etc) particularly if you own a machine shop its just a matter of finding a shaft that fits get the measurement for the cut out and dremel tool or what ever the correct shape into the back of the RA shaft and your away. just check with the guys at neptonics regarding spear type to make sure they should be happy to help.

DD

 

[willloomy]

from what i've heard Alexander trigger mecs are tanks, they last forever too
i just measured the one i have and its 3 inches from the top to the end of the trigger its just under 3 inches long from the spring to the top is 1 1/2 inches.

trigger_mechanism

 

[JCooke]

I got motivated last night and started to build a new trigger setup from scratch with a dual line release built in to the housing and a more friendly tigger lever. All bolt in no trying to figure out where to drill or place the line releases, the plug and play moto. Ill try to post some pics as I go.

Thanks for the info on the spears. I "assumed" one size fits all...rrrrr.

Thanks everyone
Jason
Alaska

This volcano better not mess up my summer!:vangry REDOUBT.

 

[jtkwest]

neptonics triggers are strong. dont worry about that. your fins will break off your spear before the trigger will let go. did you buy the tuna trigger? or the cheaper reef trigger? the tuna trigger is good for 7 to 9 bands. the small size makes it easier to fit into your gun in a remote trigger configuration. how thick are you making your barrel? for a 3 to 4 band gun you really shouldnt need it all that fat. maybe reducing the projected size of the barrel will solve your problem.

 

[jtkwest]

I got motivated last night and started to build a new trigger setup from scratch with a dual line release built in to the housing and a more friendly tigger lever. All bolt in no trying to figure out where to drill or place the line releases, the plug and play moto. Ill try to post some pics as I go.

Thanks for the info on the spears. I "assumed" one size fits all...rrrrr.

Thanks everyone
Jason
Alaska

This volcano better not mess up my summer!:vangry REDOUBT.

i dont know how safe it is to build your own trigger. from what i have read 1000ths of an inch tolerances make the difference between a hard pull and a smooth one. plus it is a little dangerous , maybe?

 

[JCooke]

I'm am taking safety very serious so If I feel that there is a safety issue I wont use it. 1000th of a inch would be over kill, i would think that the way it shears and amount of surface that is used would be the key to a light or heavy trigger. I'm only dealing with 100th of a inch.

Heres my progress, left is the build, right is the pattern. Its lengthed to add a double line release.

Jason

 

[jtkwest]

I'm am taking safety very serious so If I feel that there is a safety issue I wont use it. 1000th of a inch would be over kill, i would think that the way it shears and amount of surface that is used would be the key to a light or heavy trigger. I'm only dealing with 100th of a inch.

Heres my progress, left is the build, right is the pattern. Its lengthed to add a double line release.

Jason

looks good. what is a double line release for? anyway, check out this website. custom internet spearguns. this is bill kitto and ron klefstad's site. they are the premier trigger designers,(alexander,josh gregory too) on the site , you will find diagrams and cut outs of like 6 different triggers with explanations of all upgrades. if i were to build a trigger, i would start there, these guys have been working on it for 30 years plus. check it out.

 

[JCooke]

I checked their site before and they have some good ideas. This is only the first prototype. I also have access to a local universities welding lab where they test the strength of welds with this huge machine the gives a readout of the failure on a pull test Ill have to try one of mine when done and satisfied with the finished trigger mech. The double line release is for one more loop if needed on the big gun Im building. The first gun is a 65" 3-4 band mid handle with double line release.

Thanks for the info
Jason

 

[theonetruerat]

i dont know how safe it is to build your own trigger. from what i have read 1000ths of an inch tolerances make the difference between a hard pull and a smooth one. plus it is a little dangerous , maybe?

1000ths really won't make a lot of difference. One of the reasons that the rear trigger forward sear design is so popular is that it will tolerate quite a bit of inaccuracy and still function just fine. As to hard pull there are several factors. First you want the line of the locking surface of the sear to pass through the pivot point of the sear to prevent drag as the sear tumbles. Second you want enough mechanical advantage to compensate for the number of bands you a putting on the gun. This of course is the ratio of the length of the face of the sear to the length of the arm of the sear. You also have to factor in the trigger geometry but that's getting a little deep. Third, the face that the sear rests against on the trigger should be an arc and it has to be concentric with the pivot of the trigger. If it's not the sear can potentially fall off the face under load or it will have to climb as you pull the trigger which ramps up the required force.

I'd have to wonder if anyone ever had the nerve to ask Jack Prodanovich if he thought it was safe to build his own triggers. :blackeye

 

[foxfish]

Every now & again the subject of the home made trigger comes up on the forum, normally it is a case of the trigger builder defending his work as most members try and dissuade him from using it!
As a avid gun builder myself I have, on occasions, thought about building my "own design" trigger unit.
I must say, I feel there is some scope for trigger innovation - I would like to have an adjustable trigger - adjustable for both length of pull & pull weight.
I am not saying these functions are necessary but they would be very cool?
"Crumbs"! virtually every other type of gun on this planet has an adjustable trigger?
However I will leave this aspect to those more au fait with metal work & engineering experience.

 

[jtkwest]

Ibuilt a couple decent guns. triggers, however, are out of my league. my hat is off to you guys.

 

[jtkwest]

I checked their site before and they have some good ideas. This is only the first prototype. I also have access to a local universities welding lab where they test the strength of welds with this huge machine the gives a readout of the failure on a pull test Ill have to try one of mine when done and satisfied with the finished trigger mech. The double line release is for one more loop if needed on the big gun Im building. The first gun is a 65" 3-4 band mid handle with double line release.

Thanks for the info
Jason

hey jason, i dont think you need a double release for an extra wrap of line. i use like 4 wraps, all are on one release with no problem. i have never seen or heard of this. has anyone else? i have like 8 guns now. none of them have anything of the sort. do they go side by side or one oneach side, or, one in front of the other. i think maybe i am confused..could you explain?

 

[JCooke]

Its the same idea as the Sea Sniper line wraps coming from opposite sides. The line release that Neptonics has is only one side, I have just doubled it. Trying to stop loops and kinks in the line.

 

[JCooke]

Lam-ed up the first gun stock, wow that West Systems epoxy is great to work with!

 

[JCooke]

Laminates went ok. Very, very strong.

 

[JCooke]

Eesh the lumber in Alaska ist great,

Its like the saying the ladies use when looking for men here.

"The odds are good but the goods are odd"

Jason

 

[jtkwest]

good work. is that 7 laminates? nice! really nice woodshop. i wish i had something like that. i do my laminates in a rougher state than you,(pain in the ass!) is that a lathe too? wow.