• Welcome to the DeeperBlue.com Forums, the largest online community dedicated to Freediving, Scuba Diving and Spearfishing. To gain full access to the DeeperBlue.com Forums you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:

    • Join over 44,280+ fellow diving enthusiasts from around the world on this forum
    • Participate in and browse from over 516,210+ posts.
    • Communicate privately with other divers from around the world.
    • Post your own photos or view from 7,441+ user submitted images.
    • All this and much more...

    You can gain access to all this absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!

Nikons 3 user guide / manual ?

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.

portinfer

Aquatic shopper...
Jul 3, 2003
1,327
408
173
Hey
Does anyone know where I can download a free user guide in pdf format for the Nikonos III or something similar - or anyone know of a good site with basic user instructions ?

I found the service manual at : wetlands.simplyaquatics.com/manuals/

but this is more of a repair manual - I just need to know simple stuff like loading film, and general use - also anyone use it without a lightmeter ? Any general rules for u/w guessing for light ?!

Cheers - Ed
 
Was planning on using black and white film - something like Tri-x pushed to maybe 800 ei or so and then developed in a fine grain developer.

Think that this will be a nice set up - but does anyone know of a good site explaining:

-- daily use of a Nikonos III
-- loading / unloading
-- quick tour of the functions (or lack)

etc

Do you use a Nikonos ?

Let me know if you can help.

Like I say the service manual is comprehensive but more of a repair text.

Ed
 
To load/unload flm:
1. Pull on lens slightly and turn1/4 turn and it sould come right off.
2. There are little levers where the strap is to connect. Use those levers to start pulling the guts of the camera up after the lens has been removed.
3. Pull the guts up all the way out of the body.
4. Lift the pressure plate from behind where the film would pass behind the lens.
5. Put a film cassette in and thread the end into the slot in the receiving spool. It helps to bend the very end of the film back to be sure it catches on the spool sprocket.
6. Press the shutter release. It will then extend out. Pushing it back in winds the film. Do this a couple of times to get the film started on the spool securely.
7. push the guts back into the camera body firmly, being careful to be sure the pressure plate is over the back side of the film and not caught up on the body as you push it inside.
8. Replace the lens by putting it on with the aperature and focus dials perpendicular to the body, press the lens on and twist until the dials are horizontal. Pull on the lens to be sure it is locked. It will give just a little but be firmly locked on if you have done it right. I like to put the lens on "upside down" so you can see the aperature markings by turning the camera up and looking down at it while it is on the strap around your neck.
9. Adjust the shutter speed by the dial on top of the body.
10. Once the film is exposed, turn the shutter speed dial to "R" for rewind and pull the little crank that is over the film cassette up. That engages the crank with the cassette.
11. Turn the crank in the direction of the arrow until you feel the film release from the receiving spool.
12. Take off the lens and take out the camera guts as previously indicated.
13. Remember to lube the o-rings around the lens mount and the top of the camera guts where they seal each time you take it apart. You do this by squeezing the o-ring with fingers on oposite sides of the lens mount or camera guts at the o-ring groove and sliding your fingers so that you make the o-ring protrude in a little loop. Grab that loop and gently remove the o-ring. A toothpick may help, but don't stick the o-ring. Clean it and the groove well. I use a q-tip, but make sure there is no cottlon left in the groove. Put just a small bit of silicone grease on one finger and smear it between that finger and your thumb. Smear it all over the o-ring. Don't use too much. You should apply just enough to make the 0-ring look wet with no globs of grease on it at all. There is also a stobe connector plug on the bottom that you just screw off but unless you use a stobe you won't need to mess with it. There is an o-ring in there, too that should be cleaned and dressed if you open that up. Need anything else?
Mark
 
One more thing...

The aperature and focus dials are on the lens. You pre-focus these things and then swim to the pre-focused distance from your subject. I've found 3 to 5 feet to be about right to avoid too much water and debris between you and the subject, especially when using a strobe. The wider the lens the better for people shots. "F8, and don't be late" for most strobes. Wide open for available light at a 60th or slower if it's dark with 800 film. Try pushing Tri-x to 1600 or even 3200. I think you'll like it. Kodak and Fuji both make good 800 and 1600 color films, too, which is what use. In very clear water with lots of light 400 works at a 60th at F2.8 but I like 800 film better.
Mark
 
Last edited:
DeeperBlue.com - The Worlds Largest Community Dedicated To Freediving, Scuba Diving and Spearfishing

ABOUT US

ISSN 1469-865X | Copyright © 1996 - 2024 deeperblue.net limited.

DeeperBlue.com is the World's Largest Community dedicated to Freediving, Scuba Diving, Ocean Advocacy and Diving Travel.

We've been dedicated to bringing you the freshest news, features and discussions from around the underwater world since 1996.

ADVERT