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Pelengas Pneumovacuum speargun

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
On a real "Zelinka" gun you have to manipulate the gun to release air via the muzzle relief ports with the muzzle set to "breathing mode", same as for pumping the gun up. The gun needs to be cocked for shooting first and then the spear removed so that you can set gun power to shooting at the absolute minimum setting. Then you pull the trigger, the piston moves at low velocity to the muzzle end of the gun, but now goes beyond the ring of relief ports and air then escapes from the gun. If you don’t use the lowest power setting then you spray paint eveything around you with oil droplets and lose all the oil from the depressurized gun plus create a very big mess. On the “Pelengas” type of "Z-linka” speargun you just depress the rear inlet valve, same as for every other rocking sear lever pneumatic speargun.

Note that if you can cock the trigger mechanism by other than using the spear then you do it that way, for example on an "Alpha C1" you just push the rear butt of the gun inwards, you don''t muzzle load it with the spear..
 
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Reactions: Jegwan
I remember reading on a Russian speargun design forum where someone declared “Zelinka” type guns to be both obsolete and needlessly complicated. He was probably right, but the gun has such a strong emotional pull and almost a "Rolls Royce" reputation that most Eastern Bloc divers want one, and so did I! I stopped short of a titanium version as those guns usually are sinkers, but not always. Plus ‘”Pelengas” is an “off the shelf” speargun manufacturer.
 
I have scanned the "Z-linka" handbook and here are the diagrams from the booklet.

 
Many thanks you for your time, explanation and diagrams. Very useful info.

t's easy to locate the familiar ball valve on the "Magnum" - Is it 32, 33 and 34 doing the job on the "Z-linka"?
 
I only briefly looked at it when I first scanned the images, so I am not sure. When the Pelengas was first released it had a rubber plug with cut-outs, then a ball valve replaced it. The image is easier to see now as I enlarged it by 50% and I was surprised not to see a ball and spring. In the handbook it says 34 and 35 are the valve, 43 is the valve spring, so maybe they have gone back to this type of valve (see photo).

Tomorrow I will remove the plastic rear screw cap and see what the valve port looks like. It will be a tiny hole so all that I will be able to discern is the color of the valve "stem", not that it will be a stem as such. Black it will be a rubber plug, silvery and it should be a metal ball. As the “Z-linka” is brand new l will not be taking the gun apart so that will have to do. Night time here and any such investigations will have to wait for another day.
 
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I'm also really tempted getting one of the ebay ones. I'm dreaming of one of the titanium models. They sure look like a Rolls Royce that would last for years of use. I was hoping that one of the longer ones might float after a shot/without the spear. Otherwise a neoprene sleeve around the barrel might do the job.
Sorry for the hitchhike - I will start a separate thread if I decide to get one.
 
The Pelengas eBay store has quite a few titanium "Zelinka" models on sale.
https://forums.deeperblue.com/threads/zelinka-system-titanium-floating-gun-on-ebay.106858/ post #14
 
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Looks like the back to back twin valve system used in a "Zelinka" has meant that a ball valve will not fit in that gun as it makes assembly more difficult to engineer and seal the ball spring retainer.
 
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I unscrewed the “Z-linka“ plastic rear inlet valve cap and looked in the bore of the inlet valve and saw nothing but black, so that indicates a rubber plug. To depressurise the gun the plug would need to be pushed in with a flat ended rod as you don’t want to pierce the rubber disc.
 
The figure shows how to put the O-ring on the selective piston! This is done to reduce the resistance of friction on the O-ring over the barrel excessive stress! Receiver pressure equalizes the O-ring and seals!
 
I have used a conical gadget to move "O" rings into piston grooves, a diagram is attached.

Here it is shown for a main barrel piston, but it can be used for any item requiring an "O" ring to stretch over a sharp corner edge once it is made to the correct diameter. The length adjustable nozzles on tubes of Silastic and other squeeze out substances which are multi-stepped and have a tapering bore which can be cut off to a desired length and bore size can also be adapted to this task. The "Taimen" company makes one for their piston which is very tiny, yet their piston has a stepped tail that one has to move the "O" ring over which would be a nightmare without the use of the gadget!
 
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There is now a "Pelengas" shop here: https://speargun.shop/Pelengas?page=2 where all things can be ordered. Payments are via PayPal.

There is a new "HORNET" model on display, but there is nothing about it showing at this stage and from the photos it appears to have a slim tank.


Looks like a wet barrel version of the "Pelengas" gun as there appear to be relief ports in the muzzle which has no plastic end cap.'
 
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Found theses pictures on the Internet.
 

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Reactions: Diving Gecko
Now this small spear pistol is being shown for night hunting, very little information on it at this stage. Probably point blank shooting with fish being shot in the linear flight zone of spear travel. Also covering the target with a "look through the rear end of the gun body" superimposition shot will work as I have shot many sitter fish this way, one moment they are alive waiting in stealthy ambush, next they are dead. The site where the image comes from usually shows Pelengas guns, this may be a Zelinka judging by the handle. Spear tip appears to be a Pelengas with the white replaceable tip.
 
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Reactions: Nico66
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