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Riffe3XS: too heavy
- Thread starterrifmaniac
- Start date
Thread Status: Hello
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It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
I think it would be best to use floater wings, but at the end I dont think its the best gun for the mediterrannean especially that you have to do a lot of side tracking, the euros would be much better. I have a riffe myslef but its the C1 so its quite lite, i can imagine the 3 xs to be quite heavy. It maybe the perfect kill for bigger pelagics (tuna etc..) but i dont think it could be your everyday gun. unless youre hunting Tuna every day 
yes; whithout the shaft, it floats :duh
I think the 6 or 6.5mm shaft solution might be ok: gun lighter and maybe less recoil.
I just have to find an hour or two to modifie an euro shaft and I'll try it out.
For MARWAN, I'd prefer not using the wing kit solution, because it might make the gun less manoeuvrable.
BTW I've compared manoeuvrability of the 3XS (with a beuchat reel on it) with a Euro gun (beuchat Mundial Elite 110): the Riffe is (a bit) easier to move about than the euro gun!! (I held both guns one in left hand one in right, then changed hands).
The Riffe 3XS is in fact 7.5cm shorter than the beuchat 110, is narrower(width) but 12mm higher.
I think the 6 or 6.5mm shaft solution might be ok: gun lighter and maybe less recoil.
I just have to find an hour or two to modifie an euro shaft and I'll try it out.
For MARWAN, I'd prefer not using the wing kit solution, because it might make the gun less manoeuvrable.
BTW I've compared manoeuvrability of the 3XS (with a beuchat reel on it) with a Euro gun (beuchat Mundial Elite 110): the Riffe is (a bit) easier to move about than the euro gun!! (I held both guns one in left hand one in right, then changed hands).
The Riffe 3XS is in fact 7.5cm shorter than the beuchat 110, is narrower(width) but 12mm higher.
Hiya
Before changing your set-up, what size fish are you targetting?
6.5mm spear with 2x16mm bands are a bit much. Most of the euro spears are not stiff enough and really weren't designed for 2x16mm's. You're likely to start running into accuracy problems.
Regards
miles
Before changing your set-up, what size fish are you targetting?
6.5mm spear with 2x16mm bands are a bit much. Most of the euro spears are not stiff enough and really weren't designed for 2x16mm's. You're likely to start running into accuracy problems.
Regards
miles
Hiya
20kg amberjack, which is similar to our yellowtail (same family) is a large fish. I don't think you're going to be happy with the penetration of 2x14mm's on a 6.5mm shaft. Besides, you'll be bending PLENTY of those 6.5mm spears. Stick with a 7mm shaft and two 16mm bands or a normal single barb 8mm shaft also with 2x16mm bands.
Maybe you could try the front wing kit instead of the full wing kit. Quite easliy made if you're a DIY guy!! Check: http://www.speargun.com/accessory_04.htm#kits
Regards
miles
20kg amberjack, which is similar to our yellowtail (same family) is a large fish. I don't think you're going to be happy with the penetration of 2x14mm's on a 6.5mm shaft. Besides, you'll be bending PLENTY of those 6.5mm spears. Stick with a 7mm shaft and two 16mm bands or a normal single barb 8mm shaft also with 2x16mm bands.
Maybe you could try the front wing kit instead of the full wing kit. Quite easliy made if you're a DIY guy!! Check: http://www.speargun.com/accessory_04.htm#kits
Regards
miles
Rifmaniac,
I would think the main cause of head heaviness is the overhang. Riffe sells them with a long overhang so if you use their Ice Pike slip tip, there is room for the slide ring. The cable on their slide ring is fixed to it so there must be enough overhand to slide the ring down and tighten the cable, or the tip will fall off easy. Personally I prefer slip tips with rings that the cable slides through (like Steve Alexander and many more) so you don’t need a long overhand.
I think your 8mm and 7mm shafts are really U.S. 5/16” and 9/32” shafts. You can shorten the 5/16” shaft yourself with a hacksaw and high speed steel die. The threads are 5/16 x 24. The 17-4 stainless shafts Riffe uses are very hard. There are two main types of dies - high-speed steel and carbon steel. Only the high speed steel will thread 17-4 stainless. Carbon steel dies will work for cleaning existing threads, but will strip if you try to thread from scratch. High-speed steel dies are usually only sold at machine shop supply places, not local hardware stores.
Your 7mm 9/32” shaft with a single flopper sounds like a Hawaiian flopper. You can obtain a new pin, grind the end of the old one off and push it out. Then cut the shaft length down and re-sharpen the tip. Some people think it is easier to put a tri-cut on the tip with a hand grinder rather than put the existing round point back on. The tri-points actually pierce a fish a little better but there is not much difference. To reattach the flopper you have to drill through the 17-4 stainless steel again. Not easy with a hand drill, but can be done with patience and properly securing of the shaft.
Or you can go to machine shop or a friend with one (even better) and get it all done.
When purchasing replacement shafts the next standard size smaller will almost always fit a Riffe. For instance the 3XS comes with 54” (140 cm) shaft. The 2XS comes with a 48” (122 cm) shaft. That is only 18 cm less and you said you have 35 cm of overhang.
don
I would think the main cause of head heaviness is the overhang. Riffe sells them with a long overhang so if you use their Ice Pike slip tip, there is room for the slide ring. The cable on their slide ring is fixed to it so there must be enough overhand to slide the ring down and tighten the cable, or the tip will fall off easy. Personally I prefer slip tips with rings that the cable slides through (like Steve Alexander and many more) so you don’t need a long overhand.
I think your 8mm and 7mm shafts are really U.S. 5/16” and 9/32” shafts. You can shorten the 5/16” shaft yourself with a hacksaw and high speed steel die. The threads are 5/16 x 24. The 17-4 stainless shafts Riffe uses are very hard. There are two main types of dies - high-speed steel and carbon steel. Only the high speed steel will thread 17-4 stainless. Carbon steel dies will work for cleaning existing threads, but will strip if you try to thread from scratch. High-speed steel dies are usually only sold at machine shop supply places, not local hardware stores.
Your 7mm 9/32” shaft with a single flopper sounds like a Hawaiian flopper. You can obtain a new pin, grind the end of the old one off and push it out. Then cut the shaft length down and re-sharpen the tip. Some people think it is easier to put a tri-cut on the tip with a hand grinder rather than put the existing round point back on. The tri-points actually pierce a fish a little better but there is not much difference. To reattach the flopper you have to drill through the 17-4 stainless steel again. Not easy with a hand drill, but can be done with patience and properly securing of the shaft.
Or you can go to machine shop or a friend with one (even better) and get it all done.
When purchasing replacement shafts the next standard size smaller will almost always fit a Riffe. For instance the 3XS comes with 54” (140 cm) shaft. The 2XS comes with a 48” (122 cm) shaft. That is only 18 cm less and you said you have 35 cm of overhang.
don
Rif,
is your Beuchat carbon or aluminum? I would be surprised if the wood was easier to manouver. I have an Omer Carbon 100 and it is much easier to maneuver than the Riffe C1 although longer. For the ultimate i recently bought a Rabitech from South Africa, SWEEET gun. I am sure Miles would back me up on that one
is your Beuchat carbon or aluminum? I would be surprised if the wood was easier to manouver. I have an Omer Carbon 100 and it is much easier to maneuver than the Riffe C1 although longer. For the ultimate i recently bought a Rabitech from South Africa, SWEEET gun. I am sure Miles would back me up on that one
Beuchat Mundial Carbon 110cm; I was really surprised when I compared both guns, but the Riffe although with 2 bands, is certainly a bit easier to manoeuver.
That's a good idea DONMOORE. I'll probably also try that. 35cm is a lot I think; I prefer 20-25.
For HAMERRHED, I've had a look at some other posts about the Riffes. I do sometimes think about selling (or letting it drown in a 1000m water); I'll give it a few more chances, and I'll see
That's a good idea DONMOORE. I'll probably also try that. 35cm is a lot I think; I prefer 20-25.
For HAMERRHED, I've had a look at some other posts about the Riffes. I do sometimes think about selling (or letting it drown in a 1000m water); I'll give it a few more chances, and I'll see
Rifmaniac,
I think 3XS comes with the 5/16 X 55 inch threaded shaft, 3X comes with 57 inch by 9/32 Hawaiian. I am pretty sure it is the right gun for AmberJack size animals. Furthermore, you get it modified to even hack good size Tuna. 5/16 shaft with 4 or 5 bands is no joke. BTW, there are not many mass produced trigger mech's which can handle so much power day-in day-out. Proven track record.
My plan A is to get the front wings, I heard they do help with the tracking also.
Plan B: get some heavy duty (these will not pop under pressure, I hope) bubble-wrap and glue little thin horizantal patches under the gun.
Plan C: get high density foam and carve a smooth piece to fit under wings.
Plan D: Larger custom teak fins.
BTW, why can't you get teak in ur part of world ?
Thanx
E
I think 3XS comes with the 5/16 X 55 inch threaded shaft, 3X comes with 57 inch by 9/32 Hawaiian. I am pretty sure it is the right gun for AmberJack size animals. Furthermore, you get it modified to even hack good size Tuna
. 5/16 shaft with 4 or 5 bands is no joke. BTW, there are not many mass produced trigger mech's which can handle so much power day-in day-out. Proven track record. My plan A is to get the front wings, I heard they do help with the tracking also.
Plan B: get some heavy duty (these will not pop under pressure, I hope) bubble-wrap and glue little thin horizantal patches under the gun.
Plan C: get high density foam and carve a smooth piece to fit under wings.
Plan D: Larger custom teak fins.
BTW, why can't you get teak in ur part of world ?
Thanx
E
Riffe guns are heavy,bulky,and overpowered for there size.You have to add wings to make them float ( metal techs ),and wings to reduce recoil (most of the other ones).Of course all the wings are sold by Riffe and the guns s*ck without them. :hmm
Rif,
I may be missing the point but the gun is rear handled and fairy long correct? Its easier to swim with a long rear handled gun with it tucked, extending only when on the hunt. Is it so much the nose weight or just the over all length of the gun that is the issue. You didnt mention recoil as a problem, so maybe its just the way your carrying it. Try tucking it.
Anthony
Less like the first photo and more like the second photo
I may be missing the point but the gun is rear handled and fairy long correct? Its easier to swim with a long rear handled gun with it tucked, extending only when on the hunt. Is it so much the nose weight or just the over all length of the gun that is the issue. You didnt mention recoil as a problem, so maybe its just the way your carrying it. Try tucking it.
Anthony
Less like the first photo and more like the second photo
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Rif,
Im at a loss, maybe its more to do with the excessive overhang as pointed out by others. How do you like it otherwise? Ive a few different guns and seems as though as nice an array Ive managed to acquire none of them are quite perfect. Wait aminute try Fuzz he's owned all the guns, literally, if someone has advice it will be him.
Good luck with whatever you come up with
Anthony
Tampa
Im at a loss, maybe its more to do with the excessive overhang as pointed out by others. How do you like it otherwise? Ive a few different guns and seems as though as nice an array Ive managed to acquire none of them are quite perfect. Wait aminute try Fuzz he's owned all the guns, literally, if someone has advice it will be him.
Good luck with whatever you come up with
Anthony
Tampa
Last edited:
Rifmaniac
I had a similar issue with my yokooji 44 when using 5/16 shaft it was very hard to track fast moving game on murky water. Changing to a 9/32 short shaft made a big difference. The standard riffe shaft extend to much from the muzzle, I don't think that have any advantages (I don't know that by fact since the fishing I don't is normally in murky water - probably subject for another thread). You could try just fitting a regular euro shaft in a pool and trying out just to get the feel. It is definitely the easiest solution.
I had a similar issue with my yokooji 44 when using 5/16 shaft it was very hard to track fast moving game on murky water. Changing to a 9/32 short shaft made a big difference. The standard riffe shaft extend to much from the muzzle, I don't think that have any advantages (I don't know that by fact since the fishing I don't is normally in murky water - probably subject for another thread). You could try just fitting a regular euro shaft in a pool and trying out just to get the feel. It is definitely the easiest solution.
that's it decided, I'll use a wing kit whatever I do to the shaft: the wing kit is supposed to prevent the gun's head from moving upwards during the shot, which should improve accuracy;
I might even put rear wings. It'll be a big bulky gun, but I don't mind if it's then better equilibred and more accurate.
I might even put rear wings. It'll be a big bulky gun, but I don't mind if it's then better equilibred and more accurate.