Rigging a sit-on kayak for spearfishing?

[Mr. X]

More roof bars

Still looking for a lower cost alternative to Thule -- which seem to cost about half the price of a kayak.

The German brand Atera seems to offer a high quality alternative.

PROS:
- offers two bar styles (as Thule does)
- less expensive
- simpler (not modular)

CONS:
- model-specific (not modular)​

Also came across this Italian-made CompoCar system: http://www.toys4cars.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1495
(Anybody familiar with either of these brands?)

 

[Pav]

I'm sure your able to use your standard Thule Bars and get a convertor kit for your current car. Worth considering. (assuming you have some old thule bars sitting around!).

AND... YOU HEARD IT FIRST FROM ME!

LIDEL I am told are selling Portable Fishfinders from Thursday £29.99!! I do not know what quality these will be! Just do your research first. Cuda 128 fishfinder I think can be picked up for about £80 now? Don't pay extra for the portable CUDA 128 version as its easy to rig up your own battery pack etc.

Also fishing rods / lures etc if you want a cheapie to tow that lure on the way to your dive site! / or get a few bonus mackeral on the way home.

incase of any confusion I DO NOT WORK AT LIDEL!

 

[Mr. X]

Another hot tip! [Your secret is safe with us Pav].

You can see Lidl offers on-line too. Here is the fishing stuff: http://www.lidl.co.uk/gb/home.nsf/pages/c.o.20060323.index

Sun hats, speargun bags with float straps (I mean rod bag), filleting knives, sea lures, rods, reels...hmm, think I need to go shopping next week . [I doubt if the serious match anglers will touch this stuff - their gear wouldn't look out of place in an operating theatre or space engineering workshop]. What do you make of the 6m carbon rod...I've only seen roach poles that long...presumably for coarse fishing? I was thinking of getting a cheap, proper sea fishing rod, for off days.

(This week: Golf Trolley -- potential kayak cart = 19.99 )

re. the Thule, no parts are the shared in the kits for the 2 cars . Also, I notice the rack we have is not the same design as the current ones. The box had the car makers name & Thule on it -- I suspect it may be a special OEM design (e.g. the bars do no extend past the brackets, which looks sleeker on the car but reduces carrying capacity).

 

[Mr. X]

Lift bar

Anybody found a source of those stainless steel U-clamps & nuts used to make the lifting bar [ref. my link on first page of this thread]? My local hardware stores have nothing even close. I am thinking that exhaust clamps might work.

 

[foxfish]

Mr X my local chandler's would be your Aladdin's Cave. I can hardly ever walk out without some boat or diving related artifact. I guess I am lucky to have three such outlets within four miles of my house. If you cant source any SS clamps I could mail some to you.

 

[Pav]

Screwfix?? Worth a look.
OR could you use the "clamps" they use in the garage to fix your exhaust pipe... friendly quick fit fitter wanting some friday night beer money?!

Lidels speargun bag!!.. now your talking.

Would that carbon rod be suitable for a short speargun barrel? i've no idea, but if it is maybe worth telling the lads reading the DIY speargun forum if it is.

 

[Huan]

Take it from me it really is not worth trying to scrimp on roof racks to much.
I have carried massive loads on my Thule Rack with only minimal damage/bending.
The bars on Thule are the difference they are 2.0mm I think and strong compared to some other brands which although they look the same are no where near as strong.
The cheap brands also rust quickly which considering that you are carrying an expensive (fully rigged marine attack craft) Kayak travelling at 50 mph or so doesn't bear thinking about.
The plastic coating hides the corrosion until its too late.....
I have been down this path and it ain't pretty = Thule all the way for me.

 

[Mr. X]

This forum is incredible!

Foxfish, that's a kind offer:king , thanks. I'll let you know once I get the rack sorted, if I can't find anything here. You are right I would spend ages in a place like that. Hardware shops fascinate me -- it's all that potential.

Thanks for the screwfix tip Pav. I might give exhaust clamps a look. Stainless steel would probably be better though, as this will be out in the elements and you need to be able to undo & do up the nuts frequently. Come to think of it exhaust clamps need to stand up to the elements too:duh - are they stainless or galvenised I wonder?

Huan, I know you are right. I have already decide not to get a Universal rack. The kayak is a big, heavy, wind-catching item. My roof has special bolt holes -- seems like it would be a good idea to use them. I am also leaning towards the stronger steel box section rails* rather than the sleeker looking flat aluminium rails [but read on]. I did notice a strange thing: the Altera rack for my car also fits a similar car by a different maker - however, it is rated only 40 kg on my car but 100kg on the other car...presumably the car is the weak spot, not the rack! I have still not decided which rack to get though. Going on a trip, so need to get sorted soon.

*Seems like the steel bars are stronger & more versatile (e.g. for fitting a lifting bar) - although susceptible to rust.

 

[Hypersquid1]

im going off topic, but if you need to mount something to your kayak i.e. speargun, the fishing guys use old curly phone cords to clip stuff onto. either drill a hole into your yak, or just tie the phone cord to something with a small carabiner clip (the kind that rock climbers use) on the other end. ive used the cords for many purposes and they do not extend and save lots of space.

 

[Mr. X]

the fishing guys use old curly phone cords to clip stuff onto. either drill a hole into your yak, or just tie the phone cord to something with a small carabiner clip (the kind that rock climbers use) on the other end. ive used the cords for many purposes and they do not extend and save lots of space.

Interesting idea. I made some "curlies" out of thick nylon strimmer (AmE: weedwacker) monofilament & old sea fishing line last year. I had not found a use for the strimmer ones as the are quite bulky but would make a good low-bulk paddle leash, perhaps attached to the boat with bungee cord & to the paddle with a velcro loop? The only problem is, you'd need to crimp it - way too stiff to knot. I have been putting off buying a proper £20 spearo crimper.

 

[land shark]

X

Plumming, electrical and pipe fitting trades use stainless fittings for the food service industry. Perhaps this will help you find what you need but be prepared to pay double for somthing that lasts for a long time

jim

 

[Mr. X]

Thanks Jim. There is not much of a food service industry round here (other than the sort that requires tractors) & consequently not much in the way of supporting services & suppliers. I'll be going to the coast soon, maybe I'll come across a chandler somewhere.

 

[omega3]

What like these????

http://www.wichard.com/catalogue/catalogue_en.php?FAMILLE=2.0

 

[Mr. X]

Yes, exactly like those (with stainless wing-nuts). They have no price or shopping cart though. Do you have to call France? [Seems odd to to order a paper catalogue from a website with no cart.]

 

[omega3]

The dealers for Wichard in the UK are Proboat.

Go to page one of your topic and I have put proboats website link there(after the nice woman with the great rack!)

Then find your nearest proboat dealer , situated all over the UK and phone them and make an order(quote Wichard part #). They will give you the prices or you can find them on their site. On Proboats site cheaper alternatives are often listed with the Wichard parts so bear that in mind

Note: any quality forged SS goods will have a price to match!!!
Those two links I have given you (after the nice girl with the great rack )produce just about every forged SS product on the market and of excellent quality.

Proboat lets you collect or will post.

Hope that helps

PS Proboat might be your local boat shop ,Kayak shop etc....what I am trying to get across is any shop can be a proboat shop but it is usually marine shops/dealers. The wichard catalogue is for the likes of distributers/dealers to show their factory products. Whichard is the producer not the seller(they are F"£$in huge)

While you are looking for proboats weblink I have posted you may want to have a closer look at that rack for your kayak......LOL......its obvious it distracted you enough from the info last time!

 

[Mr. X]

Well nuts & bolts for kayaks!

While you are looking for proboats weblink I have posted you may want to have a closer look at that rack for your kayak......LOL......its obvious it distracted you enough from the info last time!

rofl She...I mean It...was certainly easy on the eye. (I was probably a little distracted around that bit of the thread.)

By the way...

If anybody is interested. I am thinking of getting a big order of M6 well nuts with 3cm bolts for the kayak -- seems like there must be other folks having similar problems tracking this stuff down.

 

[mundial]

Hiya :t
as an owner of SOT cobra fish N dive XF from this boat i am fishing & diving

it is very important to have all your gear hooked well !

if you go with diving suit you dont need to put on nothing ( my opinion)

i took a seat that is low back beacuse i find it better for getting in & out
while diving from a kayak, but for long distance it will be better a high back
seat!

dry storage is a musy for car keys cell phone

leash for your paddle is one of the most important things
( you dont want to try catch the paddle with the kayak useing hends ! )

i use bangee 6 mm cord for rigging 2 guns and my fins

take a lot of water with you

good luck my friend:friday

 

[cantshoot]

Hey everyone,

We don't use any outrigers or sails. I have heard of people using sales for turing but I have never see any. The kayaks are quite stable once you get used to them so an outrigger is not needed. I would say that 90% of the diving and fishing kayaks here are scuppers or prowlers. They are stable and have great storage space.

scuppers and prowlers as far as the eye can see. One of the Nationals we had here a few years ago.

When installing rivets or well nuts don't forget to put a bit of silicone. You may also want to add SS washers or plates behind the rivet/well nut in high stress areas.

Aso I wouldn't attach an anchor line to the side of the kayak, that is just asking to flip each time a swell goes under you. Add a bungee to your anchor system, it sounds stupid but it will really take a lot of stress off every component through out your anchoring system.

And yes as Mundail said "have all your gear hooked well" I mentioned this before but you don't want to loose things when you flip over.

For the roof racks I use Yakima with Mako saddles. The Mako saddles keep the kayaking sitting up so the saltwater doen't pour our of the kayak and onto your car. Before I used the Mako saddles I used to see water falls comeing out of my kayak even after I drained it. Also they have something called Hullyrollers, they allow you load the bow first and then roll the kayak/canoe onto the other rack.

http://www.yakima.com/ProductCategory.aspx?id=11

Be safe,
Roland

 

[Mr. X]

Thanks CantShoot. Somebody (pos. Huan?) already pointed out to me that Yakima is not generally available in Europe. Pity, I used to live not too far from where they are made. Thule seem to have the outdoor pursuit market sewn up here -- every body carries them and they all cost the same.

I saw the rollers on a website. Certainly something to help with the lift is going to be highly desirable, possibly essential. I thinking of a slide out lift bar. I like the simplicity of it & it looks like a decent home made version should be relatively easy to make [ref. link on first page of the thread]. I think I have a bar that will be just right for the job (from an old steel clothes rack).

Re. the anchor, I plan to use your rig as my model! I like your rope yoke to keep the anchor line below deck level. I already have a nice long thick piece of bungee that has been looking for a good use for quite some time. I still need brass/bronze dog lead clips. I think my deck loops & nets are awaiting collection at the Post Office. I may need to make do with something simpler for the first trip though.

Pav/anyone, do you have an anchor on your Tandem? Do recommend stern or bow attachment (or both)? I will usually sit in the back with a passenger, so stern attachment seems to make sense for that. Maybe bow attachment would work better when sat in the middle (solo) position?

 

[Lockedin]

Pav/anyone, do you have an anchor on your Tandem? Do recommend stern or bow attachment (or both)? I will usually sit in the back with a passenger, so stern attachment seems to make sense for that. Maybe bow attachment would work better when sat in the middle (solo) position?

X

Not yet, but I like Cantshoot's model as well. I have been tying off in kelp with a looped surf leash (the kelp is pretty thick & sturdy in this part of California) in calm conditions - I tried it while fishing in somewhat windy / heavy current / 2-4 ft swell conditions, it held, but it didn't feel secure. I'm hoping that my financial consultant (Wife) will approve another paddle, and an anchor system this weekend!

Rick