"Seabear" operating pressure

popgun pete said:

Here is the URL for the "Orion" pneumatic speargun: http://www.harpoongun.ru/orion/manual.html

Click to expand...

As this link no longer works I am attaching the Russian operating manual here. It is pretty much the same as the one shown earlier for the MAK model. The pumping table is more realistic than the version for the US market where they over-pressurised the gun to the point that you needed to be King Kong to load it with just one hand on the loader.

Here is a new Seabear RP-2 for sale:
Later models have a Tee handle on the hand pump replacing the earlier round knob which makes pumping much easier.

This is the "Seabear Repair Manual" created when the guns were sold in the West, it deals with the AK single power models. When the MAK power dial guns came out the business was about to close as the Russians had put their prices up, so the repair manual does not include these models. However the differences are not great, the MAK guns have a different inlet valve and rear bulkhead, but the guns are otherwise identical.

More pages follow.





Note the parts list and exploded parts diagram are shown earlier on this thread, so no need to add the other pages.

Note: I put the "Seabear Repair Manual" up as 20 years or more have elapsed since it was first produced and the chances of finding one these days would be close to zero. Quite a lot of "Seabear" guns were sold and survive provided their owners washed them off after a dive in saltwater as the alloy used is OK, but not totally anti-corroding as the guns were originally designed for rivers and lakes. You need to fix up any paint chips as exposed alloy tends to corrode if left unrepaired. Note the guns are so heavy that if you leave one laying on its side the paint will crack off where it is sitting on the curved body section touching the table surface as all the weight will be taken there and at the muzzle tip and grip handle butt. The plastic band tank clamps will take the load instead, so leave them on the gun and the painted metal surface will be spared. Don’t put the gun down on the rocks or the paint will chip, look for a weedy or sandy bottom if you have to put the gun down. Otherwise plan to respray the gun at some time, the closest colour match I found was GM “Iron Grey” automotive enamel.

RP-2 on eBay. This is what was sold as the AK-45 in the West. Note the plastic front sight and line wrap hook that also doubles as the front spear clamp, early guns have a metal front line wrap hook and no sight. This is because those guns have two plastic spear transport clamps mounted on the rear tank, rather than one as is shown below. RP-2 eBay (note the plastic front sight seems to have a small crack in it, check the close-up photo from the rhs)


This gun has the line release lever linked by a pivot to the tip of the trigger, it needs to be set up correctly for it to work properly. The method is shown in the repair manual above, get it wrong and the line release becomes a secondary trigger when you wrap the shooting line which is very dangerous.

This is an annotated sketch of the titanium piston used in the MAK models, it is not to scale but the measurements are correct having spent some time on it with digital callipers.


The polyurethane spear retainer gasket is shown which also acts as the piston shock absorber as there is not one in the muzzle. The spear is driven by metal to metal contact from the spigot on the front of the piston, the polyurethane bush holding everything together.

The spear tail has a pointed rear spigot that matches the conical cup in the piston's front spigot, their external conical shape helps them jam in the polyurethane bush until the spear tail jerks free when the rapidly travelling piston slams into the alloy muzzle. Without the polyurethane bush the gun is useless.