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Spear extraction
- Thread starterJRen
- Start date
Thread Status: Hello
, There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
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i have 3 techniques to remove the spear from fish:
1. Clean anything blocking the barb from laying flat on the shaft and try pushing it back while twisting the shaft. This usually lets the shaft pull right out.
2. On my Rob Allen, like miles said, unclip the line and pull the line through, then clip it back to the gun. Just make sure the fish is dead...:duh You'll hate yourself if you don't
3. If possible, I just pull out my samurai sword and cut some flesh to pull the spear. I usually only do this when the shot is near the edge of the fish and I wont cut too much meat. I only do this if i am in a hurry and doing step # 2 will take too much time.
1. Clean anything blocking the barb from laying flat on the shaft and try pushing it back while twisting the shaft. This usually lets the shaft pull right out.
2. On my Rob Allen, like miles said, unclip the line and pull the line through, then clip it back to the gun. Just make sure the fish is dead...:duh You'll hate yourself if you don't
3. If possible, I just pull out my samurai sword and cut some flesh to pull the spear. I usually only do this when the shot is near the edge of the fish and I wont cut too much meat. I only do this if i am in a hurry and doing step # 2 will take too much time.
Hiya Pablo
I'm very envious of you!!!!!! Land of the giant Kingies!!!!! A 20kg fish here is something to talk about, a 30kg+ fish is execptional. Seen the pictures of the 40kg+ kingies shot in NZ waters. Nice!!!!
I've also been toying with the idea of using a slip tip for kingies. Especially when shooting 10kg+ buggers on the bottom. They normally just bang the spear on the bottom and all you get is a bent spear for all your effort. Can't happen with a slip tip.
Let me know if you've experimented with slip tips for kingies.
Buddy of mine shot a 7kg kingie yesterday. Shot the fish through the gill plate with the spear exit-ing the eye. He now removes the spear after thinking the fish is dead. The fish suddenly becomes alive and jumps out of his hand. I breathe up and go after it. Find it at the bottom in 18m water, only to see a small, 2m dusky chomping it!!!. So just make 100% sure all your fish is dead or properly stringered before taking your spear out. Will save you alot of heart-ache..........
Regards
miles
I'm very envious of you!!!!!! Land of the giant Kingies!!!!! A 20kg fish here is something to talk about, a 30kg+ fish is execptional. Seen the pictures of the 40kg+ kingies shot in NZ waters. Nice!!!!
I've also been toying with the idea of using a slip tip for kingies. Especially when shooting 10kg+ buggers on the bottom. They normally just bang the spear on the bottom and all you get is a bent spear for all your effort. Can't happen with a slip tip.
Let me know if you've experimented with slip tips for kingies.
Buddy of mine shot a 7kg kingie yesterday. Shot the fish through the gill plate with the spear exit-ing the eye. He now removes the spear after thinking the fish is dead. The fish suddenly becomes alive and jumps out of his hand. I breathe up and go after it. Find it at the bottom in 18m water, only to see a small, 2m dusky chomping it!!!. So just make 100% sure all your fish is dead or properly stringered before taking your spear out. Will save you alot of heart-ache..........
Regards
miles
Nice story!!!
20Kg is pretty much normal, and I don't shoot them under that. But for the real big ones you must be lucky, or travel up to some good spots like the Tree Kings (3 marlins taken las week 98, 110, 158 kg). I've seen some heavy beast (40+) at the begin of the season but didn't get a shoot. Sadly the winter is here and soon they will become rare.
The low tech DY slip tip on RA steel spears is on his way, and I try to keep it simple for anyone be able to do the same: still need some machines or a friendly workshop. They steel is dam hard and I'm getting new carbide bits to bite thought. Stainless is easy to work, but the good grades are expensive and need a tricky thermal hardening... not DY!
The second part of the project is to protect the tips (once engineered they rust easily) by electrolyze. I've been running a few really interesting DY experiments that will soon be published in here. But that should extend a lot the live span of our steel spears... as long they are straight!
20Kg is pretty much normal, and I don't shoot them under that. But for the real big ones you must be lucky, or travel up to some good spots like the Tree Kings (3 marlins taken las week 98, 110, 158 kg). I've seen some heavy beast (40+) at the begin of the season but didn't get a shoot. Sadly the winter is here and soon they will become rare.
The low tech DY slip tip on RA steel spears is on his way, and I try to keep it simple for anyone be able to do the same: still need some machines or a friendly workshop. They steel is dam hard and I'm getting new carbide bits to bite thought. Stainless is easy to work, but the good grades are expensive and need a tricky thermal hardening... not DY!
The second part of the project is to protect the tips (once engineered they rust easily) by electrolyze. I've been running a few really interesting DY experiments that will soon be published in here. But that should extend a lot the live span of our steel spears... as long they are straight!
A slip tip is fitted to the tip of a spear via a cable. Once you hit a fish, the tip came of and the tip hold on the fish via the cable: this way the spear doesn't bend... normally.
He seems easy... but many tips doesn't fit properly and wobble when you shoot loosing accuracy. The same if they don't align properly with the spear.
Once you hit a fish, the tip need to have grip enough in the fish, and no to much on the spear to get free and do his job. Many have a bad tendency to get stuck if the spear work sideways... and that is pretty normal; and you have a good chance to see the spear pull straight out the fish :rcard !
Too basic kinds of tip: the ones with double floppers that act like an normal spear, but via the flexible cable. And the ones that are fixed on they middle and that should twist across the wound and have a big holding surface. This last ones seem to be the most flavored because of they excellent holding and they ability to don't rip the flesh of the fish. this last ones work better if you get across your fish; need power, lots of power for big fish!
You want as well something streamlined to keep the speed and momentum of your spear, and easy to rig to don't loose to much time.
They are not easy to design, specially for 7mm spears. Wong does some nice ones, and you can have a look at the "ice pic" standard on must on the riffle bluewater guns.
He seems easy... but many tips doesn't fit properly and wobble when you shoot loosing accuracy. The same if they don't align properly with the spear.
Once you hit a fish, the tip need to have grip enough in the fish, and no to much on the spear to get free and do his job. Many have a bad tendency to get stuck if the spear work sideways... and that is pretty normal; and you have a good chance to see the spear pull straight out the fish :rcard !
Too basic kinds of tip: the ones with double floppers that act like an normal spear, but via the flexible cable. And the ones that are fixed on they middle and that should twist across the wound and have a big holding surface. This last ones seem to be the most flavored because of they excellent holding and they ability to don't rip the flesh of the fish. this last ones work better if you get across your fish; need power, lots of power for big fish!
You want as well something streamlined to keep the speed and momentum of your spear, and easy to rig to don't loose to much time.
They are not easy to design, specially for 7mm spears. Wong does some nice ones, and you can have a look at the "ice pic" standard on must on the riffle bluewater guns.