• Welcome to the DeeperBlue.com Forums, the largest online community dedicated to Freediving, Scuba Diving and Spearfishing. To gain full access to the DeeperBlue.com Forums you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:

    • Join over 44,280+ fellow diving enthusiasts from around the world on this forum
    • Participate in and browse from over 516,210+ posts.
    • Communicate privately with other divers from around the world.
    • Post your own photos or view from 7,441+ user submitted images.
    • All this and much more...

    You can gain access to all this absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!

Spearfishing Knives: What Do You Use?

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
Mini Laser for braining and a Spyderco Caspian (blunt tip) for utility and safety.
 
Reactions: Mr. X
Omer laser mini on left upper arm for dispatching. It's so small and low profile, I hardly know it's there and locks in its sheath real good. I took off the arm band and made Velcro straps. It does rust where the chemical blacking has worn off. I hear they are weak as piss and the blade will snap off the handle in a decent fish head so I try not to stress it across the width.
Have a cheap ocean hunter on the calf for safety too.

 
Reactions: Mr. X
Hi Niko, did the sheath for your ocean hunter come with it or did you buy it separately? I broke a plastic one I have for a longer dive knife and have been looking for a simple, low profile sheath like that.
 
For low profile knife carrying ...
I like to have a knife pouch on my suit. The suit I have at the moment can with two already - one on the upper left arm and another on the right leg. If a suit didn't have one I would get one added to the leg.

The pocket reduces drag and also reduces snagging on float lines etc.

Below is a link to the suit I have.
http://www.oceanhunter.co.nz/shop/Brands/Moray/Moray+Revolution+Camo+5mm.html
 
Thanks Nicko & go-hard.
The pocket on the wetsuit looks great. If you were doing it yourself would it need stitched on + glue, or would glue be strong enough on its own?
Never seen knee pads like that either!
 
Just got a new 3mm 6 months ago, but I might look at these for my next.
 
The knee pads were patented by Moray quite a few years ago here in NZ. You won't find them on any other suits I think? They actually work pretty well and the Moray Revolution suits are pretty tough - good for rock hopping where a smooth skin would damage too easily.

I reckon glueing a knife pocket on would be fine.

In fact, here is a DIY pocket kit with glue. https://wettie.co.nz/shop/accessories-tools/wettie-knife-pouch-glue

Of course that link is to a New Zealand retailer so maybe look for one in your country first.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Reactions: Mr. X
I use what on the Australian Adreno site above, is called the Poseidon knife, in the UK its normally called a swimmers knife or similar, its cheap, can hold a really good edge and sharp point and the saw edge really can hold an effective edge. I also use a Cressi Super Totem, its a bit bulky but holds a good edge although the edge it comes with is a bit dull. Good knife and very sharp when sharpened. My other knife is a Lalizas scuba diving knife, bulky and don't often take it out but solid and bomb proof. I always wear two knives just in case, one on my forearm and one on my calf. I would rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it!
 
Iki jimi spikes seem safer to me for dispatching fish than knives.

I currently use the excellent, long* tri-cut point on my RA "sharkproof" fish-stringer for dispatching when I am near my float. Other times, I use the short round spike on my waist stringer (by one of the European makers, I forget which, possibly Beuchat or Omer) -- the spike is a bit short and not quite as sharp as I would like, so I have sharpened it.

For emergencies & back-up dispatching, I carry a cheap Taiwanese knife ("Union"), flat, all stainless-steel, which I keep in an RA Limpet sheath (which I really like - very secure & unobtrusive).

Years ago, competitive spearo Ted in Rio told us that he (often?/sometimes?) uses the point of his spear to dispatch fish. You'd need to keep your spears sharp.

If you prefer a dedicated iki jimi spike. RA make a very nice iki jimi spike with sheath but it is horrendously expensive. You can make your own quite cheaply. Red thermo-plastic (chainsaw) file handles make good handles & cost about £1.

* Some RA stringers (perhaps models > 10 years old?) have a shorter tri-cut point, which I suspect would not be as good for dispatching fish.
 
Benchmade Saddle Mountain hunter, with the sheath tied to my boardshorts. Ghettofabulous setup, but it works, and I don't need a wetsuit / belt / weights here in Costa Rica.

The S30V steel initially rusted a little - in particular on the engraved logo, but I have heard that is from contamination of the tool steel from the manufacturing. Scrubbed off the surface well and it's been care free since.

I like that it has a fine point, but jimping on the back of the blade which is helpful for guiding the point of the knife during braining operations on a wriggling fish.

Sheath retention is very secure with positive engagement.

 
Reactions: Mr. X
For years I've used imitations of the Riffe knife, made in the same factory in Italy but without the Riffe name and much cheaper. But last week I listened to a spearblog interview with G. R. Tarr, one of the best spearos in the US. He has a company that sells a few things for spearos, and one of them is another imitation of the Riffe, also made in the same factory, but with serrations on both edges. I've always felt that the serrated side was what worked, and I have in fact cut 480 pound stainless steel cable in the water when I really had to, but the smooth side was pretty much worthless. So I immediately ordered one and it came in the mail today. Obviously I haven't used it yet, but I'm looking forward to having a knife that can cut kelp, line, or even cable with either side.
http://redtidespearfishing.com/collections/knives
 
Last edited:
Reactions: Mr. X
You might also take a look at our knife as well.

The MAKO Kona Kill Knife is made of 420 stainless steel, is Teflon coated and is manufactured in the same factory in Italy where some other well respected manufacturers source their knives. However, the Kona Kill Knife is $30 because I sell DIRECT, with no retail store overhead or mark up to cover.



http://www.makospearguns.com/Kona-Kill-Knife-p/mkk.htm

 
Reactions: Mr. X
I love the design of the Mako knife, same as the now hard to find Omer Laser USA, my favourite design (not so keen on the scabbard which seems unnecessarily bulky but perfectly functional).

...The pocket on the wetsuit looks great. If you were doing it yourself would it need stitched on + glue, or would glue be strong enough on its own?
Never seen knee pads like that either!
I lost my Omer USA laser spearfishing knife because I put it in a pocket just glued to my wetsuit. I was gutted. I can't recall which glue I used now, possibly contact adhesive rather than neoprene glue. But either way, I would not recommend just using glue. That said, I've since been impressed by the strength and effectiveness of neoprene glue in repairing my wetsuit.

That New Zealand wetsuit is amazing. It even looks proper bloke shape. The arm & thigh knife pockets look very well designed, clever, much better than mine. The flappy knee pads - amazing , very hard wearing and protective and camo I would think; an unusually elaborate design and implementation..
 
Last edited:
Here are some of my knives, a brain surgery "Thazard" from Coralign France and a "Premier" from Taiwan for cutting and hammering. These knives disassemble for cleaning. The Wenoka from Japan does not, but has a big hammer butt. Other knives not shown here are for dismantling fish.

 
Last edited:
Reactions: Mr. X
I like the shape of the blade on that middle one. The quality looks high.
 
Cookies are required to use this site. You must accept them to continue using the site. Learn more…