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The DeeperBlue.net Gun Building Extravaganza - The Build

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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Pastor why are you unemployed? I thought you were doing a grand job!
 
foxfish said:
Thing is IL, a custom built gun like the one we are building would cost at least £400 ($800) maybe a lot more?
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Yes and I'm sure there is a person much more deserving than myself who should get this gun when it is complete. I like to see others get gifts, it makes me feel better to see others get a gift than to get a gift myself. Not that I won't try when the time comes, but I don't expect to win either. And a hand made gun is MORE than likely worth it's cost.
 
Very kind of you dude I stepped down because I couldn't justify the time needed to do the job to the standard the site deserves as things are at the moment. Stephan has given me an open offer to return so maybe when circumstances are better I may like Arnie, be back! (if I don't win this gun rofl)
 
Reactions: podge
Good man! Look forward to you being the voice of reason again! Come the revolution.................
 
Another one for the pot

How about this idea: 2 thin strips let into the wood at an angle to act as an enclosed track. It would give plenty of room for the bands to sit to the side of the shaft rather than on top of it.
 

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Pastor said:
Does this make sense? Horribly done in highlighter and biro rofl Mostly visual rather than to do with the derlin physical properties.
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If im not mistaken, wont this be an issue no matter what the track? the taper of the gun is always going to be exaggerated by the straight track whether its derlin, epoxy, or just a wood track... I think?
 
blaiz said:
If im not mistaken, wont this be an issue no matter what the track? the taper of the gun is always going to be exaggerated by the straight track whether its derlin, epoxy, or just a wood track... I think?
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This was the effect I tried to badly explain. Whether or not it is a problem is debatable of course. I would rather see the track cut directly into the wood if the tapers are used.
 

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I dont really see the track + the taper being much of a problem. Personally I dont think it will affect the aesthetics at all. A custom poured track will only look like another laminate. I like the idea of function over form (though this gun will more than likely have both equally) and I just dont think that the wood track will hold up like an epoxy track will. Just my thoughts. "Small fries" by all means! I think either way the gun will be a piece of art... with a deadly style!
 
If you laminate a stock with tapered laminates, you end up with a trapezoidal stock. When you go to route the track, regarles of type (wood, epoxy, plastic, etc.) you will have to make a custom fitted block to secure the stock to before running on the router table.

In short, starting out with a tapered stock is a pain in the a$$. You're basically shooting yourself in the foot before the gunfight starts.

It's a better idea to start with a square stock, do all the machining, then taper it - makes the build much smoother.
 

The only tricky thing about making a tapered stock is that you have to make a jig in order to cut a straight track. But cutting the taper after the fact might make for some cool grain patterns. Though the integrity of the stock may not be as good?
 
at any rate, Im going to stop talking now.:blackeye Im going to let the experts discuss for a little while. Sorry for all the rambling. you guys probably think I like to hear myself talk!
 
Jigs are fine, but it's just one more step, and a painful one at that. I just finished routing a track that I had to use a jig and hand-held router. The end result is a nice, strait track, but getting there was a nightmare.
 
One option would be to make the outside lams an opposing trapezoid, so that the completed stock is square, then you can taper after all the machining and still end up with the original lamination design.
 
For the enclosed track, a glued carbon (or glass) fiber tube with the appropriate inner diameter?
 
Hello spearos

I see some of you are worried about about the method of making and routing a tapered barrel. Do not worry about this at all, please just concentrate on getting the spear gun right. We will document each step of the gun construction so any person with some wood craft skill can follow. So for this we will be using only tools that are easily available to most of us or using services that can easily be sourced.

I see we have some ideas brought forward but no decision to how we will proceed. Please this needs to be agreed quite quickly so that we make some progress with the barrel very shortly.

See you all soon spearos
 
I would say to cut the track straight into the center teak lam but I don't know the specifics on how that holds up over time. I'm not sure how to say this properly, but I would prefer a lined track where the lining is not visible across the top of the gun, just the wood and the notch. Is that even possible? I like the natural look of wood and steel mixed, throwing in synthetics seems wrong
 
Going by Pastor's link, I say straight into the teak.
 
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