Thanks for the kind reply guys.
Let me share my thoughts :
Being a scuba hunter, I try to get most fish on a single bottom time/tank. About floating the gun away, I might as well use my Riffe float set on breakaway mode ( I just bought another 100 feet of float line, so I have now 250 feet ) which also means only ONE big fish per tank dive & cheaper to loose than the entire gun. My main problem is that I can not ascend any faster than 30 feet per second or my lung will rupture or I will get bends or both. If the fish is able to pull me to a non rocky terrain where I have no rocks to grab, I have to fight entirely with my fins and roller coaster ride to weaken the fish. Without a reel, I have always been giving them fishes roller coastering me for 2-3 minutes untill they get tired. However, I can never out-fin a fish of 10kg or bigger if they are not hurt bad. I trained my finning power using 10kg weight lead, all I could do to lift this lead 0.5-1 meter off the bottom is only 30 seconds. Maybe I have to get a much firmer fin.:head I also do not use BCD inflation as floating aid, just too dangerous for me. Some hunters I read in oil rigs use their BCD when big amberjack pull them down.
I have also been doing some thinking. A spearing reel is a single side mounted, unlike a fishing reel. Fishing reel like Penn International is designed to take abuse of massive drags set on it. It has two bearing points on both ends. A spearing reel since side mounted, only load the reel sideway ( 90 degrees ) when a big fish pull it. If any fish ever managed to strip my reel till the end of the line, my spearing reel will then fight the fish for me, instead of the shooting line anchor point if no reel is used. I am sure even a Riffe or Omer or whatever good brand of reel out there will either bend (aluminum ) or break ( carbon fiber ) when being pulled with 150-200 pounds of pull. The fact that the single bearing point of a spearing reel being pulled at 90 degrees angle to its main shaft that load the mounting frame with the bolt, this is equivalent to a crow bar effect.
A scuba hunter with decent strong arm can withstand 150-200 pounds of sudden pull for a few seconds before he probably accelerated so fast pulled by the fish in the water untill his mask comes off and gave the gun up to the fish. When I ski and hold the ski handle, at least 150 pound of pull or more is being experienced to "plane" out of the water from my squating position.
I am even thinking to have a special "stopper" made of stainless steel. A Riffe shooting line anchor point is a "U" shaped stainless bolted to the gun with two screws. In the Metal Tech gun I use, it used a machined thread screws inserted into the aluminum muzzle and the aluminum barrel squeezed in between. This I am sure can hold in excess of 500 pounds before breaking. In teak Riffes, maybe less because wood grain is not as tough as machined aluminum of Riffe type barrel thickness. I use this "U" shaped shooting line anchor point as a line guide, similiar to a fishing rod round guides. If I can machine a stopper that locks my 1000# Kevlar line reel to the "U"shaped anchor point before all my reel line get exhausted, that means I am transfering the load to my anchor point instead of the reel taking the beating. I am sure this is a much safer high loading operation.
Unless I can grab something permanent with my legs and use both arms to retrieve my reel line as fast as I could, there is no way I can avoid a roller coaster ride when a 15 kg and above Tuna ( not hurt bad ) trying to escape. At this stage of event, a scuba hunter is in worst condition than a freediver who has a float to brake the fish pulling effect. Even with a reel, if a freediver has a board or a float to grab while pulling up a fish, he is more effective puller than a scuba hunter hovering at depth with nothing to grab.
So here I am installing a reel to avoid tear off and surface roller coaster by a King Mackerel but giving a Doggie the chance to make knots around rocks.....:head
Anyway, since I am a bubble blower and wanted to get more fish without having to surface to pass the fish to my boat or drag it around like a fool in a current situation plus inviting the sharks, I have taken Abri advice and rigged this "Rocket Launcher Stringer".
This is a Riffe +-7 liter C02 powered utility float, which is like a regular dive marker float but totally enclosed so no air will escape and thus it will not collapsed on the surface when deployed. Look at the +-8" stringer. I string a big fish by the eye after I brained it and send it out to the surface, my boat will pick it up. This way I am a free man once again to hunt without all the risk and burden.
I now want to make it a habit to carry two of these on me + my regular stringer. Thus I have one regular depth adjustable stringer and two "Rocket Launcher Stringers". I will never land more than two big fish in one dive, this set up should be good enough for me. In any event if say a big fish strip my reel entirely, I hope.........I sure hope that I can attach these two 7 liter floats to my gun in time and inflate them. At 90 feet I will get 3 kg flotation plus my finning and at the surface at least 15 kg flotation. Thus the concept will be the same as Texas DON MOORE with his custom inflatable SAVE-MY-GUN floating rig he mentioned a few months back. I just love DEEPER BLUE !!!!!!!!!
In any event the fish still can pull everything down.....bye bye everything.....:waterwork
Let me try a float set up instead when I hunt the 300 feet deep wall next time, I'll tell you what I think from a scuba hunter point of view.
My terrain might be different than some area u guys hunt, maybe the result will be different too.
I GARONTEE !!, I will FEELAY those fish thingy .... ha ha ha
Thanks again comrade(s) fish "slayers".
Let me share my thoughts :
Being a scuba hunter, I try to get most fish on a single bottom time/tank. About floating the gun away, I might as well use my Riffe float set on breakaway mode ( I just bought another 100 feet of float line, so I have now 250 feet ) which also means only ONE big fish per tank dive & cheaper to loose than the entire gun. My main problem is that I can not ascend any faster than 30 feet per second or my lung will rupture or I will get bends or both. If the fish is able to pull me to a non rocky terrain where I have no rocks to grab, I have to fight entirely with my fins and roller coaster ride to weaken the fish. Without a reel, I have always been giving them fishes roller coastering me for 2-3 minutes untill they get tired. However, I can never out-fin a fish of 10kg or bigger if they are not hurt bad. I trained my finning power using 10kg weight lead, all I could do to lift this lead 0.5-1 meter off the bottom is only 30 seconds. Maybe I have to get a much firmer fin.:head I also do not use BCD inflation as floating aid, just too dangerous for me. Some hunters I read in oil rigs use their BCD when big amberjack pull them down.
I have also been doing some thinking. A spearing reel is a single side mounted, unlike a fishing reel. Fishing reel like Penn International is designed to take abuse of massive drags set on it. It has two bearing points on both ends. A spearing reel since side mounted, only load the reel sideway ( 90 degrees ) when a big fish pull it. If any fish ever managed to strip my reel till the end of the line, my spearing reel will then fight the fish for me, instead of the shooting line anchor point if no reel is used. I am sure even a Riffe or Omer or whatever good brand of reel out there will either bend (aluminum ) or break ( carbon fiber ) when being pulled with 150-200 pounds of pull. The fact that the single bearing point of a spearing reel being pulled at 90 degrees angle to its main shaft that load the mounting frame with the bolt, this is equivalent to a crow bar effect.
A scuba hunter with decent strong arm can withstand 150-200 pounds of sudden pull for a few seconds before he probably accelerated so fast pulled by the fish in the water untill his mask comes off and gave the gun up to the fish. When I ski and hold the ski handle, at least 150 pound of pull or more is being experienced to "plane" out of the water from my squating position.
I am even thinking to have a special "stopper" made of stainless steel. A Riffe shooting line anchor point is a "U" shaped stainless bolted to the gun with two screws. In the Metal Tech gun I use, it used a machined thread screws inserted into the aluminum muzzle and the aluminum barrel squeezed in between. This I am sure can hold in excess of 500 pounds before breaking. In teak Riffes, maybe less because wood grain is not as tough as machined aluminum of Riffe type barrel thickness. I use this "U" shaped shooting line anchor point as a line guide, similiar to a fishing rod round guides. If I can machine a stopper that locks my 1000# Kevlar line reel to the "U"shaped anchor point before all my reel line get exhausted, that means I am transfering the load to my anchor point instead of the reel taking the beating. I am sure this is a much safer high loading operation.
Unless I can grab something permanent with my legs and use both arms to retrieve my reel line as fast as I could, there is no way I can avoid a roller coaster ride when a 15 kg and above Tuna ( not hurt bad ) trying to escape. At this stage of event, a scuba hunter is in worst condition than a freediver who has a float to brake the fish pulling effect. Even with a reel, if a freediver has a board or a float to grab while pulling up a fish, he is more effective puller than a scuba hunter hovering at depth with nothing to grab.
So here I am installing a reel to avoid tear off and surface roller coaster by a King Mackerel but giving a Doggie the chance to make knots around rocks.....:head
Anyway, since I am a bubble blower and wanted to get more fish without having to surface to pass the fish to my boat or drag it around like a fool in a current situation plus inviting the sharks, I have taken Abri advice and rigged this "Rocket Launcher Stringer".
This is a Riffe +-7 liter C02 powered utility float, which is like a regular dive marker float but totally enclosed so no air will escape and thus it will not collapsed on the surface when deployed. Look at the +-8" stringer. I string a big fish by the eye after I brained it and send it out to the surface, my boat will pick it up. This way I am a free man once again to hunt without all the risk and burden.
I now want to make it a habit to carry two of these on me + my regular stringer. Thus I have one regular depth adjustable stringer and two "Rocket Launcher Stringers". I will never land more than two big fish in one dive, this set up should be good enough for me. In any event if say a big fish strip my reel entirely, I hope.........I sure hope that I can attach these two 7 liter floats to my gun in time and inflate them. At 90 feet I will get 3 kg flotation plus my finning and at the surface at least 15 kg flotation. Thus the concept will be the same as Texas DON MOORE with his custom inflatable SAVE-MY-GUN floating rig he mentioned a few months back. I just love DEEPER BLUE !!!!!!!!!
In any event the fish still can pull everything down.....bye bye everything.....:waterwork
Let me try a float set up instead when I hunt the 300 feet deep wall next time, I'll tell you what I think from a scuba hunter point of view.
My terrain might be different than some area u guys hunt, maybe the result will be different too. I GARONTEE !!
, I will FEELAY those fish thingy .... ha ha ha Thanks again comrade(s) fish "slayers".
