Twin Pipe (loop) Snorkel (DIY)

My tubes are setup similar to this configuration:



The difference is that I keep my tubes fairly short. My tubes probably end a couple centimeters above the keeper holding the two tubes together in this photo.

My goal was to just get opening on top of my head. I never felt that I needed a long extension to the opening. With that, I'm good looking forward and down, which is what I'm usually doing while on the surface. No point to look behind when on the surface... it doesn't help with streamlining unless you are submerged.

Hmmm...weird - short tubes I have on first days, but it was not better - same clearance as slightly longer for sufrace swimming with mono completely streamlined (face down).
I show you why:


Short or long end has the same clearance (black dimension on a picture) - and it is very low with face down. With more speed and hands over my head I take a lot of water to opennings every move. With more speed, your top of head never be completely "clear" above surface (hands over head also push a head more down for lower clearance) and this is the moment, when short tubes and "poisitive" angle of tubes stops working. Maybe with slow speed and hands along side it works (I need re-test this on next monday).
Only help was use reverse "memory stock shape" with oposite direction of openings (back from head), but it is not suitable for face up position (swimming or stationary) - previous pictures.
But this is my observation for my style of swimming. Maybe something is wrong with that.

Green shape is by me the best shape for snorkel and loop snorkel. But it could be flexible and keep same line/angle/direction.
That is the reason why I am experimenting with ideal position for tube openings, which will be working hands up/hands on the side, stationary or surface swim and for fast swimming with mono. Allround snorkel.

On the surface, I'm usually looking forward, and will even bring my eyes above the waterline occasionally to get my navigational updates. With any snorkel, you need to pick a head position for optimum use and then there will be a limited range of motion around that before you start submerging the snorkel opening. I adjust mine for looking forward because that is the most useful position for me. Like I said, there is not much reason to use the traditional aft looking streamlined head position when swimming on the surface; there's no water flowing past your backside to generate drag on the top of a head that is looking forward. I only tuck my chin when swimming underwater, and the position of the snorkel opening is irrelevant when you are down there.

By the way: The tube things you have plugged into the top ends of the loop tubes will disrupt the laminar flow of the purge and allow water to remain in the outlet to later fall back down toward the mouthpiece after the purge is over. To get a laminar jet, you need a smooth tube up to the outlet.

Thanks for insights, Ron. I will use them well.

REVAN said:

By the way: The tube things you have plugged into the top ends of the loop tubes will disrupt the laminar flow of the purge and allow water to remain in the outlet to later fall back down toward the mouthpiece after the purge is over. To get a laminar jet, you need a smooth tube up to the outlet.

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Yes and thanks again, good notice, I am aware of that. Silicone ends is only to measure right lenght of tubes with my test loop setup, I have a lot of them from PC water cooling. They are not for final design. Still I am not decide, what tubes I will order (xspx. tygon 3400 or tygon norprene and theirs OD).
When I cut them, there is no way back.

I've been meaning to do something better for the snorkel keeper for a long time, but just never seemed to get around to doing it. I finally got around to doing it.

I made this bracket from HDPE. It holds the two snorkel tubes in alignment, and there is a simple Velcro strap that connects it to the mask strap. This is much, much easier to remove and attach from a mask than the 3 separate snorkel keepers I used to use.

Mr. X said:

What problem were you trying to solve? Difficult to clear?

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It was difficult to remove the snorkel from the mask, or to attach it. I liked everything about this snorkel except for the fact that it used 3 snorkel keepers. There were times when I should have the snorkel, or shouldn't have the snorkel, but it was too much work to change the state, so I went with whatever the current setup was. The bracket replaces the 3 snorkel keepers, and it attaches to the mask with a single velcro closure.

Now, it is easy to change the state. It only takes a few seconds to attach the snorkel, and the new holder holds the tubes in a more consistent and comfortable arrangement than did the original setup.

Last two seasons I am using these simple setup, but your idea with velcro is nice, I will try it. I keep holding on bottom google strap. One hold point/keeper for attach (red rubber band) and one point/keeper to hold whole system together (green rubber band). Minumum drag, maximum comfort, fast to attach. And I had to shorten pipes - around 40cm each beam. I love loop snorkel, thanks for that.