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Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.

old dave

Nov 19, 2004
What do you guys think are best? articulated wishbones, dyneema or stainless steel wire. I personally like dyneema especially on 100+guns grab hold without tearing fingers :waterwork problem is it wears out quickly is there a better cord to use? Spear manufacturers cut the notches and leave sharp edges which can be difficult to deburr :rcard any ideas?

good hunting
This has been asked in the past. I'm sure Fuzz can chime in and post a pic of that round blade saw that he uses to clean up the notches in a shaft to accomodate dyneema wishbones. If the notches are smoothed out, the dyneema should basically last forever. I personally like the dyneema because it's quiet, easier to pull on, and less risky for my fingers. I've seen too many damaged fingers from articulated wishbones that slipped or failed.

I also use shafts that have been pinned or riffe shafts with fins for my open muzzle guns. For those wishbones, I use Sunset Nylon line, blood line, or other durable cord. These work like a champ and last longer than the bands.
I have tried lots of different wishbones over the past year and have come to the conclusion that Artic's suit me best for the type of fishing that I do.
Wire gets curled from being strung unevenly in the notch and when you have short 20mm rubber the last thing on your mind is accurate placement in the notch.
Dyneema, I feel is not really suitable for the majority of Euro spears even when they are polished in the notch.
Artic's are durable and strong if used correctly.
I personally favour the Picasso Plana competition as it seems a lot stronger than the forged parts on the usual french wishbones.
To my mind there is nothing worse than finding a frayed wishbone halfway through a productive session.
I use SS Articulating wishbones on my euro guns - never had a problem with them....
The wire one I had on my RA fell apart in just a couple of months. :vangry

We went over to dyneema last year, not really noticed a difference apart from that bit of extra confidence that if it should break bits of us shouldnt as well ;) We've had enough missing digits in this family :(
I always wanted a thread named after me... :)
There was a disscussion a month ago or so about this issue and Mark L. made several long and very accurate posts about this.

Here it is: [ame="http://forums.deeperblue.net/showthread.php?t=56383"]articulated wishbones and chopped off finger[/ame]

Well after speculating on the subject for some time it appeared that a conclusion has been reached:

The articulated wishbones are the best choice for single band euro gun with standard notched shaft. For other shafts like the sharkfin per example, those are not good. The standard wire wishbones should be banned with a special UN resolution. The heavy duty wire are preferred by some but not widely used. Dyneema wishbones should be used with multiband guns, bluewater especialy...

I have never had a problem with articulated wishbones, but have recently been experimenting with tied in cord wishbones, mainly as a way of reducing drag and increasing shaft speed.RA spears have beautifully finished notches, which dont cut the wishbones, but they dont fit most euro mechanisms. For finishing the notches on other euro spears, I find the best tools are a carbide saw, followed by needle files, followed by string and grinding paste, but it is fairly lengthy process.
I like to be able to change cord wishbones quickly in the water or on the boat, and have come up with a couple of ways to do this on screw in or bulk rubber muzzle guns. I will put up details on my website soon
Another option is to use spears with sharkfin tabs. Watch this space for a sensibly priced alternative to the Riffe euroshafts
Dave I use screw in rubbers and cut one end off i then thread one inch loop through bead then insert and tie off into cut end leaving half inch loop protruding. .repeat with the other one.I then join the two loops together using four-five inches dyneema tied in a large loop . assemble pass large loop through small loop back inside it self pull tight unscrew other rubber from gun pass L. loop through small loop then bring screw end through L. loop as well pull tight screw back to gun. carry spare two inch loops takes one minute to change in water hope you make sence of this :duh
That sounds similiar to what I do.
Method 1; Cut the end of the screw in rubber off and taper it on a belt sander.Make up a loop of 800lb mono with a bead on it and tie it into the rubber. The loop should be about 3mm diameter. Thread the dyneema through the 2 loops and tie a stopper knot on each end
Method 2; Put cord loops in the rubber as you described, then tie the wishbone section in using a sheet bend. I find the pure white dyneema slips, but nylon coated dyneema works very well
Hope this makes sense
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