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- Thread starterjtkwest
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Thread Status: Hello
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more of the finished stuff and others . here you can see the clear epoxy coating. it is really hard to capture it on camera. it just doesnt look that smooth. but in actuality it looks great! and the water beads off it like pastic. i am considering redoing all my oiled guns with epoxy. i think i will when i get the system3 surf board resin. that stuff should give me even better results plus uv protection.
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I generally like the JBL or Riffe butt for hip loaded guns. For chest loaders, I use an SBR rubber test tube stopper from McMaster. The rubber is a good combination of tough and comfy, and can be shaped easily on a belt sander.
Edit - On my most recent gun (bottom pic) I found that the SBR rubber glues very well to ABS plastic with superglue. The ABS provides a rigid base that can easily be attached to the butt of the gun with a couple of screws.
Edit - On my most recent gun (bottom pic) I found that the SBR rubber glues very well to ABS plastic with superglue. The ABS provides a rigid base that can easily be attached to the butt of the gun with a couple of screws.
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i only do it if the gun is taller than or equal to 1 3/4". if the gun is only 1 5/8" tall there isnt enough room. all my guns have very minimal finished dimensions. the gun in the pic is 1 5/8" x 1 5/8" (which is actually some of my larger barrel dimensions). after rounding over the stock, in order to mortise the handle in,(which is 1 3/16" wide) that only leaves 3/16" of meat on each side of the frame. which ,(if i round it over) is already gone. i noticed on your guns ,(first they are bigger overall barrel dimension) and you dont round over the bottom of your stocks,(on the ones i have seen) this does solve the handle mortise problem, but i like the round over look. plus its just a matter of time versus money. these guns you see have all been sold to people who didnt even know what an enclosed track was till they met me. many of them went from ab biller. to one of my guns. so they really dont know the diference. i already spent too much time on that gun for what i sold it to him for. there was no way to get any more money out of him, so it really makes sense to bust it out and get it done. i mean i've made 17 guns so far. all of them kill fish. but only a few of them are beautiful. although if you think about it how many guns have poured epoxy graphite enclosed tracks? mine do. 8 piece teak laminates. like i said if the gun is bigger than or equal to 1 3/4" tall and 1 5/8" wide. if its smaller,( which makes it track and slide through the water really well, incidently) there just isnt room for a neptonics handle frame. i have some new handle frames from tin man that arent so wide or thick,this should work better. maybe a different design altogether. i like the neptonics frames for the mid handles and the fatter guns. but for the reef guns, i need a sleeker look, i do agree with you. it just seems like an unsolvable problem. i will find a solution , but it probably will require a different handle frame.i'm working on that. but for now, the assenbly line keeps moving. flaws and all. right now i am making two hybrids and a two shot gun. and you can bet all those will have mortised handles! btw: i got two cf tubes at 1 1/4" o.d. and 1" i.d. and 36" long for 45$ each from china on the way. when they come, i am doing the hybrids.
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Ever try a mortised handle? Super easy to cut from 1/2" thick Delrin for a rear handle gun. Just a little harder for a mid-handle, but not tough. The first three duplicate the Alexander handle profile. The last was for a Shapelock (Polymorph) grip.
I don't mean to derail your beautiful work Jason. If this doesn't add, I'll gladly remove my post.
I don't mean to derail your beautiful work Jason. If this doesn't add, I'll gladly remove my post.
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no, dont remove anything! all points of view ,(especially with pics) are welcome. especially from you tin man. i have been thinking more about using a different handle frame. especially since you showed me those mortise in handles with the built in line release. but i do have to point out . there just isnt room for one of those in a rear handle gun. unless the barrel dimensions would allow it. and that would mean atleast a 2" tall barrel ,(which is huge) (this gun in the pic is only 1 5/8" x 1 5/8") so i have to defend my non mortising in THAT gun anyway. it seems to me there is only room for anything fancy in a mid handle. my mid handles are a minimum height of 1 3/4" anythng less would not leave enough trigger intact to do the deed.,(after cutting trigger off) so, for my mid handles, i am not only open to new ideas, i PLAN on using your new handle design, with the mortise-in style and the built in line release, and for rear handle guns, i'm still not sure what to do. if the trigger is 1" tall and the gun is 1 1/2" tall, i cant mortise anything under the trigger, there wouldnt be room. right?
There is always a way. If it won't fit underneath the trigger mechanism, then span across it.
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hey, whats up tin man! that looks sweet! and you did it in aluminum! even better! how does it attach though? you could do the little inserts with hole through for tiny pins from the side? or just epoxy maybe? i already can tell you that i want like 10 of them. i dont hook my float line to the handle, so it doesnt have to be 800lb test attachment, so epoxy maybe enough.
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