building first gun

[foxfish]

i'm going to just go with an open track
my uncle has access to tons of different bits but i still may need a few more what special bits do i need?

Should i double wrap my line?

any tips about the build in general would be appreciated

thanks a lot you guys have been very helpful

I'm getting my parts tomorrow
will post pictures of my build

Will an open track for your first gun will be fine - some of the most advanced guns like the C4 dont have any track at all!
Make sure your epoxy is fresh & not out dated when you by it.
Look here for another superb thread http://forums.deeperblue.com/homemade-spearguns/81261-basic-gun-making-overview.html

 

[willloomy]

i found this page and found it most helpful. does anyone want to look at it and tell me if anything is wrong with it
Ray Klefstad's Notes on Making Teak Spearguns
i like it because it talks about installing the Alexander trigger mechanism and handle specifically

I don't literally want my gun to be a riffe euro but i like the design

I'm using a Alexander trigger mechanism and handle there supposed to be great and easy to work with. plus they're available at my local dive shop so i don't have to spend extra money on shipping

 

[willloomy]

im revising my dimensions 1 1/4" wide by 1 7/8" tall

i got my mech, handle and line release today and looked at a gun that i liked alot so im going with those dimensions i went with Alexander parts

 

[jtkwest]

im revising my dimensions 1 1/4" wide by 1 7/8" tall

i got my mech, handle and line release today and looked at a gun that i liked alot so im going with those dimensions i went with Alexander parts

what size slot do you cut for an alexander mech? how much was it?,(if you dont mind i ask)

 

[willloomy]

what size slot do you cut for an alexander mech? how much was it?,(if you dont mind i ask)

the mechanism is about 7/16 wide.
the slot is just over an inch deep but you have to make room for the spring

i need help. I'm not sure how i should make the slot that the trigger mechanism fits in

it was $105

the Alexander handle was $55 both the pieces are rock solid and the mech is supposed to be very easy to install.

i went with the Alexander parts mostly because of there availability and good reputation.

 

[jtkwest]

that is why i never used alexander trigger. 7/16? wide? that sucks! how do you cut the trigger slot? you will have to use a 3/8" bit and chisel the rest out with an extremely sharp chisel. to be honest you paid too much for the luxury of having to hand chisel your trigger slot. a reef trigger and a handle frame would have cost you 80$ total, and the handle you got is plastic or aluminum. on neptonics, you put your own wooden side grips. i was warned against using alexanders triggers just for this very reason.you could order a custom 7/16" bit for 300$,(maybe a 10 mm would work from jamestown distributors.com) anyway, i am interested to haear how it goes. did he give you a template for drilling the trigger pins? really helpful. good luck with that! i use a plunge router to do my trigger slots. it looks like you may want to invest in a good sharp 3/8" chisel. if you are not an expert with a chisel, be careful!!<(i am a trim carpenter for 16 years,) chiseling is an art, ask for lessons from a buddy. it is trickier than it seems.once again, GET aSHARP chisel set!!!!!!! MARPLES is a good brand they sell at home depot.my advise: take the trigger back where you got it, get your 160$ back, order reef trigger from neptonics, skip buying chisels, skip hand chiseling, take your extra 80$ and buy the spear. now all you need is a 1/2" straight bit,(super common and cheap) good luck man

 

[jtkwest]

im revising my dimensions 1 1/4" wide by 1 7/8" tall

i got my mech, handle and line release today and looked at a gun that i liked alot so im going with those dimensions i went with Alexander parts

if you make the gun with these dimensions, it wont swing through the water nearly as well as a riffe euro. it should be the reverse of what you said. go measure a riffe euro 110mm. it is 1 7/8" wide and only 1 1/4" tall that is why it swings and tracks so well. where are you getting your info?

 

[foxfish]

You could fit the trigger before you assemble the laminates, IE make the centre lam 7/16 wide or half notch two lams. Obviously you dont actually leave the unit in place when you glue up! This would save chiseling a slot?

 

[willloomy]

what would the pros and cons be for installing the line release like the one on this gun?
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iABzZJY37uo&feature=related]YouTube - Speargun wood[/ame]

 

[jtkwest]

what would the pros and cons be for installing the line release like the one on this gun?
YouTube - Speargun wood

the pro would be that it is really f....g cool looking. the con is that, it releases after the spear launches, but maybe it would work. really cool looking gun . are you gonna shape yours like that ? curvy and stuff? my hat is off to you sir!!

 

[willloomy]

haha i wish i could make a gun that nice

anyway how long of a track should i make for a 55 inch gun? someone told me 48 but someone else told me I'd have difficulty finding shafts for that length

also what bits should i use for a partially enclosed track? i saw one at the dive shop and it looked nice

 

[jtkwest]

haha i wish i could make a gun that nice

anyway how long of a track should i make for a 55 inch gun? someone told me 48 but someone else told me I'd have difficulty finding shafts for that length

also what bits should i use for a partially enclosed track? i saw one at the dive shop and it looked nice

55" overall gun, you should run a 48" track, that will leave 5" behind the trigger for hip loading. the length of the spear doesnt really matter as long as it overhangs the barrel. usually 10" to 14" spear sticking out the end of the gun. that means any spear from 55" to around 62" will work fine.i dont know where you are buying your stuff, but i find it hard to believe you cant get a spear that length. a core box bit is what youy need . go on jamestown distibutors.com get a 8mm core box bit.how are you mortising the 7/16"trigger slot?

 

[willloomy]

foxfish, if i use your idea for installing the trigger mechanism how do i make sure the track lines up with the mech?

 

[foxfish]

That would be easy Will - first you need to cut your centre lam just a little wider than your trigger unit to allow for the epoxy & give a bit of clearance, say 2mm.
Then you only have to rout out the half round track down the middle the the center lam once the gun is glued up.
If you want to keep it simple just use three lams for the whole gun but make the outside ones a little bigger than you need so you can plane the stock flat, square & true.
Check the link for a "not very good" example but you get the idea? http://forums.deeperblue.com/attach...05cm-enclosed-track-composite-p1020868-1-.jpg

 

[jtkwest]

That would be easy Will - first you need to cut your centre lam just a little wider than your trigger unit to allow for the epoxy & give a bit of clearance, say 2mm.
Then you only have to rout out the half round track down the middle the the center lam once the gun is glued up.
If you want to keep it simple just use three lams for the whole gun but make the outside ones a little bigger than you need so you can plane the stock flat, square & true.
Check the link for a "not very good" example but you get the idea? http://forums.deeperblue.com/attach...05cm-enclosed-track-composite-p1020868-1-.jpg

yeah thats what setting steel does(leave a slot out for the trigger) but i dont like my trigger slots to go all the way through at full width, i like to mortise just deep enough for the trigger housing to seat down, the i mortise a 5/16 slot on the bottom for the trigger and spring. i feel this is stronger. if you dont do this all the pressure on the trigger is channeled in to the pins that hold the trigger. on my guns the trigger is wedged on all sides, AND pinned. now all my designs are for maximum strength because i am really only inteested in building blue water cannons. i do want to make some cool curvy guns like foxfish though

 

[Mr. X]

i manged to turn a school project into an excuse to build a gun and i have a few questions.

Excellent. I suggested this to somebody looking for a school design project and was told "Yeah, right, they're going to let me make a spear gun!". I guess he has a point, they are so wrapped up in red tape, govt. micro-managing, targets and health & safety issues here now that I doubt if they'd let you here. I'm not sure I'd want them to allow it come to think of it Be careful.

 

[foxfish]

I built a compound crossbow at school
In fact last year I had a phone call from the locale police asking about my thoughts on licensing spearguns, I pointed out that you could buy a compound crossbow that can kill a deer at 100meters & he should perhaps prioritise his own thoughts!

 

[Salehthefish]

hello there

Seeing all these projects made me ambitious to make one gun...

I have asked about Teak wood in DUBAI and i have found one supplier i will buy 2inx 6inx 6in x2.5 meters wood which i will cute and i will try to make two guns one i want it big like 120 cm and the other one i will try to make it with smaller cross section similar to Europe guns. what is the size of the wood cut should be to make the 120 cm gun also do we consider the gun size from the triger to the end of the rail or it is just the rail?( This will give me an answer how to cut the wood...

Using the wood as rail is it going to wear up the wood by time and decrease the life of the gun and performance efficiency?

Is there definet size for the rail to be groved for the spear to sit like 1/2 of the diameter of the shaft or any other percent?

honestly i do not have router and carpentry tools all what i have some tools at my work like grinder drill machine hacksaw file did anyone try to make the groves in the gun using file, chisel and hammer this way i think i will need like one month to finish one gun (keeping in mind if it will work out with a working gun hehehe) for gutting the wood into 5 or six pieces and make T crossection i will make it where i am gonna buy the wood for muzzle i will use drill two holes and file it to make in shape and same for other areas? if it is not applicable then i will have to check out for carpentry shop and ask him to give me sometime to do it at his place!!!

These are my questions so far sorry i know its bothering but i need some or many help to start

 

[foxfish]

Yes, you can build a gun with basic tools - saw, chisels, plane (very sharp plane) & lots of clamps.
I remember some guy made the track on his gun with a pencil wrapped in sandpaper!
Guns are measured in all sorts of different ways but I would use muzzle hole to trigger connection?
I would recommend that you have your wood cut & planed in a workshop.
Make the smaller gun first.
Go for a 1100mm total length gun with open muzzle & open track.
Leave your glued up blank for a week before you start any shaping.
Use three lams.
Read Portinfers thread on building a teak gun.
Start your own gun build thread so we can help step by step.

 

[Salehthefish]

Thanks heeps man for your generous info!!!

I will start it soon once i come back from lebanon...

Appreciate it again...