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DIY Fluid Goggles

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
Hi there,

The base goggle is a Tyr Racetech, clear.

The cover is made from a pair of clear Finis Stealth. But any swedish socket style goggle can be used.

The pieces are glued with West Marine epoxy.

Hope that helps,

Peter S.
 
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Peter, thanks !

I got my lenses in yesterday and I was in a shop checking out goggles today. I didn't find any that fit me well, although I didn't see the ones you mentioned. I did however find a swim mask that fit well so perhaps I'll try and make some with those.
 
Hey

is there anyone from Germany, who knows a store here, that sells the corresponding lenses? Since ordering them via Edmud Optics from I think the US is really expensive because of the shipping cost and customs. And I am quiete sure that they are available in Germany too somewhere... So does anyone know a shop?
I have already contacted several ones, unfortunately without the desired success. If I find a shop I ll post it here ^^

Bye,
Felix
 
Didn#t paid that much for the lenses. I sold them for 50 Euros a pair. So not tooo expensive. We are just working for an good way to get them to the goggle.

Tobi
 
Hey,

thanks for the replies!
Problem with Edmunds is the shipping, which is 22 € (but express then - unfortunately no other option available...), so all together sth. around 80 €... which appears to be a good bit of money, considering that these are just lenses, which still have to be out into the goggles correctly (which by far seems to be the hardest part).
So thats why I was wondering if anybody knows a cheaper shop, where I don't push the costs with shipping... because then its easier to decide to do some experiments :-D
Anyways, there is a chzech shop, which offers the assembly of such lenses for ~100 € (incl. the lenses), which seems to be more reasonable to me then... although I always prefer diy, because I can blame myself for all the problems, that may show up :p
 
Hi,

can anyone provide me with informations/hints how to determine the distance between lense and eye? I ve been in the pool and the lenses (anchor optics) are really great, i have totally clear vision, once i ve found the sweet spot.
but after several tries to get it fixed into the goggles properly I still could not get it right. I was using some plastic/acryl tube, which I ve cutted in a vertical direction and then cut some little nobs on the corresponding edges to hold the lenses, fixing this construction with a rubber strap (so you can easily glue it as a whole construction into the goggles). But I was either to close to the eye (which is a problem of the type of goggles I used), or I had some double vision and the lenses still were not in the proper distance to the eye.
Does anyone have an idea how I could measure the right distance? I could (and probably will) let a picture been taken by me while holding the lense in the sweet spot distance and holding a measure right beside it. But this would be a very tricky way of measuring it, which would probably lead to errors (though minor errors should only have a tolerable effect on the quality of vision). So does anyone have another tip/clue for me? Would be great!
Best regards
Felix

PS: anyone knows a store where i can get the tyr goggles or some other goggles with high (deep) volume?
 
The double vision is because the lenses are NOT parallel (in one plain). The same with a Sphera or Flow mask when it gets deformed by putting the straps on too tight or the water pressure.

Taking an close up underwater photo from the side may give you an idea how close the lens should be. Then from the same side position a photo of you waring your goggles, with a piece of measuring tape for scale. Also a photo of your face from strait front with measuring tape. and one with goggles on. The photo's should be help full.
 
Hey,

thanks alot for the tipps. I ve finally measured the distance (1,7 - 1,8 cm), but now I am really having huge problems to find swimming goggles, that offer enough space for the lenses to be mounted inside. Unfortunately the TYR goggles mentioned by some of you are not available in Germany (or Europe, at least I could not find any although doing some intensive searching).

Additionally to this I ve had a different idea which I d like to share: I will get a form of my face (with plasters) and then fill the form up with cast, so I have a more or less exact copy of my face. Then I will take some plasticine and put it onto my eyes in order to achieve the exact distance between eyes and lenses. I can guarantee parallelism of both lenses by putting a straigthedge onto both parts of plasticine and thereby flattening it. Then I will put the lenses (protected with some transparent film) on top of the plasticine and get some kind of epoxy or the like to get a perfectly shaped goggle for my face.
Anyone has an idea what else I could use as material for the mask/frame?
I will keep you up to date with this project.

regards!
Felix
 
... I am really having huge problems to find swimming goggles, that offer enough space for the lenses to be mounted inside...

Additionally to this I ve had a different idea which I d like to share: I will get a form of my face (with plasters) and then fill the form up with cast, so I have a more or less exact copy of my face.

Anyone has an idea what else I could use as material for the mask/frame?
IFelix

I don't know what lenses you use, but I use the 15mm dia, 15mm FL PCX lenses and they fit great on the inside of Speedo or Arena goggles, giving me clear wide vision.

I wouldn't focus too much on getting a perfect fit, a less perfect implementation will be largely compensated by your brain. I wouldn't wear it for hours or read a book with it, but I can see the tag and read my dive computer with it. I could even read small print, both above and under water.

If you think of plastercasting your face, don't use normal paris plaster, you'll burn your face. Better use alginate, for the negative and then use normal plaster for the postive cast.

I'm thinking of using a low volume spearomask as a donor for my next fluid goggle, simply because it doesn't move around much (unlike swimming goggles).

Good luck!
 
hey ptoot,

I use the anchor optics lenses. I had them in some arena goggles already (the "active" model) and the lenses were almost touching the glass of the goggles, but still i wouldn t have clear vision. When I was pulling the glasses a bit away from my face, i.e. enlarging the distance between eye and lense, I had great vision (though doubled). So it was definately a distance problem. Do you know, which arena model you are using?
and concerning the plastercasting, I just didnt know the name of the right stuff, so no worries - but thanks!
what exactly did you mean by using a spearo mask as donor? cutting the nose part away and using the rest? It might be a better solution to go for swimming masks then, there is a model similar to the cressi minima without the nose part, could work. For me its a bit too wide unfortunately...

regards
Felix
 
Hi Felix,

People typically went for the Anchor/Edmund PCX 20/20 (focal length = 20mm), which is fine if the lens is stuck on the outside, away from your eye. If you want to use your goggles both above water and under water, you need to stick the lens on the inside of the goggle, (touching the glass) closer to the eye and therefore with a shorter focal length (I used the 15mm FL, also from Anchor/Edmund).

Reference T45-093 € 27,08 per lens according to the Edmund Optics catalog.

No guarantees, but it worked for me

I intend to use either the Cressi Minima or the spanking new Omer Zero 3 (Zorro 3 ;-) ) as a 'donor'. Leaving the goggles intact but sticking the lens in a small tube on the inside against the glass. Curvy side to the glass.
 
I ordered the lenses, but I still have a question about the goggles. I was going to order the Tyr Racetech shown in the video, but what is the purpose of splicing another set of goggles and attaching them to the goggles? Is it just for protection from scratches?...Can't I just attach the lenses to the goggles on the outside and be done with it as I've seen on other goggles?
 
@Tarzan: Which lenses did you buy, what's the Focal Length?
They all work the same in air, but under water the FL differs.

you EITHER

Use the 15mm for fitting between eye and goggles
<) )| --> eye - lens (in ring) - goggle

OR

use the 20mm for sticking on the outside of the goggles
<) |) --> eye - goggle - lens (glued on)

Use a ring or a plastic tube and your imagination to fit them on the inside.
I never cut a hole in my goggles and I don't intend to.
 
Last edited:
@Tarzan: Which lenses did you buy, what's the Focal Length?
They all work the same in air, but under water the FL differs.

you EITHER

Use the 15mm for fitting between eye and goggles
<) )| --> eye - lens (in ring) - goggle

OR

use the 20mm for sticking on the outside of the goggles
<) |) --> eye - goggle - lens (glued on)

Use a ring or a plastic tube and your imagination to fit them on the inside.
I never cut a hole in my goggles and I don't intend to.


What's the distance between your eyes and the 15mm lenses?

btw., which setup provides the wider vision under water?
 
The distance between my eyes and the lens (on the inside) is probably around 1 cm. (my eyes don't lie too deep in their sockets), is different for every person. What works for me may not work for you.

The inner lenses provides me with a vision as wide as my usual view above water (that's wide!) but a little curvy on the edges.
 
I'm thinking about using an aqua sphere seal pair of goggles (sphera without the nose) as my donor, as I have one I do not need for pool (aqua sphere Kaiman goggles are AWESOME for pool work and actually fit / seal on my face) and I could affix the corrective lenses on the outside and drill 4 holes in the corners of the plastic lenses to let water in.

If I screw it up, replacement sphera lenses are easily / readily / cheaply available.

Just a thought / option. The seal is easy to affix in the same location every time, thus more consistent vision.
 
I purchased the 20mm, because attaching the lenses to the outside of the goggles seemed to be the easiest method. I also have abnormally LONG eyelashes and if I had attached them to the inside, I figured my eyelashes would rub and I'd probably have a fit. Haha.
 
I'm thinking about using an aqua sphere seal pair of goggles (sphera without the nose) as my donor, as I have one I do not need for pool (aqua sphere Kaiman goggles are AWESOME for pool work and actually fit / seal on my face) and I could affix the corrective lenses on the outside and drill 4 holes in the corners of the plastic lenses to let water in.

If I screw it up, replacement sphera lenses are easily / readily / cheaply available.

Just a thought / option. The seal is easy to affix in the same location every time, thus more consistent vision.

I have noticed this style used by Freedive Dahab instructor Linda, and also Mike Board of the UK. The advantage, I gather, is that the leneses are held in the same plane. I tried the Trygons version, also held in plane, and could not see a thing.
 
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