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Extreme Dolfinism

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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I noticed the Lunocet.com website is off-line; has been for a while now. Anyone know what's going on? I figure Ted is either revamping the website for a new market push, or moving on to other things and is in the process of dropping the Lunocet product. Two extremes, but I have no idea which.
 
I noticed the Lunocet.com website is off-line; has been for a while now. Anyone know what's going on? I figure Ted is either revamping the website for a new market push, or moving on to other things and is in the process of dropping the Lunocet product. Two extremes, but I have no idea which.

I have no idea but it does not make any sense (to me at least) to keep the old site offline with no explanation if you are planning a new market push, it's not as if you can't revamp the site while the old one is still functioning and it takes 3 mins to put up a 'coming soon' holding page. So based on that I'd say chances are he's moving on...
 
I don't think we'll be seeing it as a viable commercial product for a while. I know quite a few people involved helping Ted at the time but they have all moved on. Shame...
 
Hi Ron ,

A few questions about the wear and tear of the x20. I am a newbie :eek: and am planning on buying my first monofin (traditional one)....but now some people in this forum changed my mind and am currently looking at the x20 due to its portability and other positive features as i plan to travel a lot.

So regarding the wear and tear in the past few post you were talking about the hyperfins not being reliable...

"I have been to three competitions since June. In each of them, someone at the competition has had a hyperfin failure.
inv.gif

The first two were bad enough that the fins were unusable without extensive composite material repairs. I suspect the second fin was eventually discarded. The third fin just had a chipped fin blade that was repaired by cleaning up the break and creating a symmetrical break in the other side of the fin blade to even it up."

So since I plan on buying the x20 I plan on using it in the pool 5 times a week, I also travel a lot in warm climates in asia where i want to take the x20 with me....while i am swimming dynamics in the pool let say I am resting in the shallow side of the pool my feet will be on the floor still wearing the x20....so when there is pressure on the fin blades can they bend? And if they do can you hammer it back to shape?

Also while making the turns in dynamic the blades may hit the wall as I am new...what can this do to the blades or other parts of the x20? Will it break, bend chip etc?

When swimming in open water close to the reef if it hits a rock on the down stroke what can happen to the blade, or other parts of the x20?


Thanks!
:)
 
I'm sure Ron will add to this, but, between Ron, me and others, mine probably has more hours on it than anybody else's, several years worth. So far, the thing is bullet proof and I abuse the heck out of it. It gets scratched up on the reef, but that is purely cosmetic and it seems to take a lot even to scratch it. The plastic wingtips are flexible, will bend as needed and straighten out by themselves, but don't seem to be breakable with normal hard use and would be easy to replace if needed. The plastic has some memory and, if you leave the tips in a certain bend, they will stay that way for a while when you are using it. Ron thinks that is an advantage. The tip of the wings does wear down after awhile, a long while, not a problem. The only thing I worry about is leaving it unsupported in the middle while on the rolling boat and having somebody fall on it. Even then, Ron could supply the parts to repair it. The shoes, I'm reasonably sure, will wear out eventually and need to be replaced. Mine are beginning to look pretty beat up. There is some ferrous metal in the shoe's closure straps. Mine is rusty. Easy to fix with nylon line, but I'm looking for some stiff plastic tubes which will be better than new.

I use it in the pool a lot and it does take some experience to keep from banging it on the wall or the lane dividers. That's more a problem for the pool rather than the fin. Doing surface laps, you can flip turn with it and avoid touching the wall entirely. Not sure that would work underwater.



Connor
 
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The fin blade itself is very durable. I've had people trip and step on them, scuba tanks dropped on them and nothing more than cosmetic damage has resulted. Also, the exo-skeletal frame is very tough for any swimming loads that I think anyone can put to it. It is also quite strong for standing on or pushing off a surface as long as you are pushing uniformly. However, I let someone borrow my X-20 for a test swim who had a bad habit of making their turn in the pool with an axis spin and swinging the fin sideways and pushing hard off the wall while still rotating. After many turns, when I got the fin back I noticed the frame was slightly bent away from the direction of their turns. My first thought was "ARRGH, Amateur!". However, I was able to leverage the frame against a ledge and throw my weight onto it and bend it back straight again. Now, you can't even tell that it happened.

Cdavis's prototype is far more susceptible to this mode of bending than is the X-20 because the struts were not braced for side loads on that design. With his fin it is more important to avoid side loads. I redesigned the struts and support of the X-20 to be a lot stronger against side loads and I don't really think it is a problem, but obviously if your technique is really bad and you are a big strong person pushing with a large side load, it is possible to bend the frame. Thankfully, it is also possible to repair it easily. :)
 
Thanks Ron and Connor,

I think this answers my question well...its more of a cosmetic damange than any chipping or breaking like in a traditional monos....but since i am new to mono fins I do have to be more aware during my turns so I do not bend the frame....In a way this will be good for me so I can kick any bad habbits if I do develop them.... :t

Now my other concern Conner and Ron, I read Laminars review about the bouyancy and also conners solution....

"I usually dive with no wetsuit on my legs, maybe no wetsuit at all. I found the Dol-fin x18 to be oustanding in many ways, but the thing was tail heavy in those conditions. Sit still and your legs sink fast, dive straight down and the fin wants to fall faster than you do unless you keep stroking. Drifting was difficult because as soon as speed dropped, the tail sank. I could not get Ron's negative drift to work. I tried a neck weight and that helped, a lot, but did not solve all the problems.

Solution, add some flotation. " Ie Foam Blocks!


(By the way I too dive with no wetsuit most times since i dive mostly in warm climates in asia)

As a newbie I will be practicing with the x20 a lot in the pool before any open water dives therefore I will get to rest in the shallow end of the pool after every few dynamics.....now once I get to open water and I presume the x20 too will have the same tail heavy concerns...will that make me struggle / therefore I will have to stroke / kick often to keep afloat before I dive? It will raise my heart rate , therefore I will use more O2 etc....also will my legs sink if I am floating in a horizontal position while looking directly at the sea bed below? Is this problem there with the x20 and is it a major concern for a newbie?

Thanks again for all your help guys!

Rgds,
 
How to weight the fin is an area where personal preference and how you use it play a huge role. My suggestion is use the fin a while and see how it works for you. If needed, add the appropriate floatation. A lot of it has to do with technique,body fat,wetsuit, having the right size neck weight (neck weight is needed for this fin), and how fast you swim. Very good technique, swim fast and have the right neck weight and a thick suit on your legs and floatation might even be a negative.

I only know of one other user besides me who felt the need to add floatation. My use is often like yours, so I would not be surprised if you needed it. My solution, (foam covered with fiberglass) works, has minimal cross section, but has durability problems. I suspect that Ron's wood solution will work better. He will probably have his out soon. If not, its no problem to make your own or have a woodworker do it for you.

To your specific questions

In any case, it won't be a big enough problem to affect your purchase decision.


If you need floatation and don't correct it, tail heavy becomes annoying after you begin getting used to the fin and will make you mildly uncomfortable, with associated reductions in dive potential. The gains from the fin will probably offset the negatives, even if you don't correct it. In my case, I like the fin, tail heavy or not, but it is much better with floatation.

Oh yeah, in the pool, going slow, floatation helps keep the fin from beating up the pool.

Connor
 
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For recreational swimming, many people prefer a fin that is heavy. It can be more comfortable that way if you will be sitting on the bottom to hunt or take pictures. A tail heavy configuration also makes surface swimming easier. During the breath-up on recreational dives, you will likely need to do some fin kicking anyway for station keeping over your intended dive location to compensate for current and wind effects. So, under these recreational diving conditions the heavy fin may prove to actually be an asset. Even with no wet-suit, I like to wear between 2 and 4 pounds of weight and if you make a neck weight you will be nicely trimmed regardless.

The flotation becomes more of a concern when diving competitively. It is mainly an issue during the breath-up before depth diving, and to a lesser extent during dynamics. During the breath-up, it is only an issue if you are wanting to lay flat during the breath-up. However, I prefer to sit on a large float for the breath-up to get my head high up out of the water and prevent waves from surprising me when they break over my face (a problem I've had when laying on my back for the breath-up). So, it all depends on how you like to do things. Also, trim weighting is an issue for dynamics, but the hydrofoil is efficient enough at generating lift that it does not seem to make much difference with these fins unless you do your dynamics really slow and are wearing all your weight on your waist. If you use neck weights for your dynamics (as you should), it will not be a problem.

The last issue is free-fall on deep dives. If you are not well trimmed, you will have a tendency to want to flip over and fall feet first when coasting through a long free-fall. This is where a neck weight will make a big difference. Flotation will be important to you if you are diving so deep that you don't want to be wearing any weights because you want your neutral depth to also be deep. Without either flotation or neck weights, you will need to use the stabilizer fins on the X-20 to actively steer yourself straight and prevent the process of tipping over from happening. So, the fin has a mechanism built in for dealing with the situation, but if you can address your trim directly, your free-fall will not require your attention for steering concerns and you can just relax and focus on equalization. The solution is to add neck weights, and if that is not an option, add buoyancy to your fin or your legs.

If all goes well, I will hopefully have float kits available later this year. We'll have to see how it goes with the testing and the manufacturing development. :)
 
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I noticed the Lunocet.com website is off-line; has been for a while now. Anyone know what's going on? I figure Ted is either revamping the website for a new market push, or moving on to other things and is in the process of dropping the Lunocet product. Two extremes, but I have no idea which.

Just checked the site (I hadn't before) and it works fine for me, not sure if it's the same as the previous site or not as I had never visited the old site...
 
Just checked the site (I hadn't before) and it works fine for me, not sure if it's the same as the previous site or not as I had never visited the old site...

Yes, it seems to be back up again. It must have just come back in the last few days. Too bad that it is still the same outdated information, as the product shown is very different from what Ted is selling. :rcard
 
Thanks a lot guys...now I know bouyancy will not be much of a problem and therefore shall not really affect my purchasing decision....
 
FYI: I came across this video someone posted of the latest Lunocet. So far it is the only in-water video I have seen of Ted's latest incarnation.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUbtIBK7P1A]2013 lunocet - YouTube[/ame]
 
Smith Aerospace Corp. has finally produced a video on how to make a loop snorkel. A lot of people have been asking for this and I finally put in the time to make it. This is our gift to the freediving community.

Cheers,
Ron Evan Smith - Smith Aerospace Corp.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYlKYPYoICU]How To Build A Loop Snorkel (Freediving & SCUBA) - YouTube[/ame]
 
DOL-Fin technology has many benefits for freediving. However, it actually can do much more for scuba diving if it were to catch on. The efficiency and performance advantages over scuba bi-fins is so large that it is difficult for many people to comprehend the significance.

I went to Mexico last week to test some prototype floats for the X-20 and to test the DOL-Fin X-15 monofin for scuba diving. After one of our scuba dives to 40m, my dive partner was done, but I still had 1/2 a tank (1500psi) remaining (it is not unusual for me to have about 1000psi more pressure in my tank than a dive buddy who was using bi-fins). I decided to go do a scuba free-swim with the GoPro mounted on my custom boom camera mount to see if I could capture how a DOL-Fin X-15 can completely change the dynamic of scuba diving.

Everything shown here is low-stress endurance swimming. There is no sprinting, or unsustainable elevated breathing rates, which can be confirmed from watching the scuba bubbles. Of course, you can also slow down and follow other divers. However, unless their tanks are 50% larger, you will probably have a lot of unused air remaining in your tank when they are done with their dive.

This is a simple video to show the dynamic element DOL-Fin technology can bring to the sport of scuba diving:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kr4vUrCWuXg]James Bond Would Love this X-15 SCUBA Ready Monofin - YouTube[/ame]
 
The Navy Seals might be interested for night-op special missions on rebreathers.

Terry Maas has worked with them on the FRV, perhaps he has some contacts??
 
Ron, out of curiosity, what are the differences between the X-20 and the X-15 in terms of freediving? Is the latter completely unsuitable towards it? I also seem to remember reading that the X-15 is supposed to be cheaper, do you have a price yet?
 
Ron, thanks for posting the snorkel video! that was a great way to explain exactly how to make one. I will be making one and trying it out soon. I've been putting off trying to, hoping you would post a video or instructions, since you have already done the troubleshooting. Have you tried it for surface swimming? I currently use a Finis center snorkel, but when underwater it flaps about when I get up to speed. Good job!
 
Ron, out of curiosity, what are the differences between the X-20 and the X-15 in terms of freediving? Is the latter completely unsuitable towards it? I also seem to remember reading that the X-15 is supposed to be cheaper, do you have a price yet?

The only difference between the X-15 and X-20 (at least as far as this proposed first generation goes) is simply a shortened 15cm exo-skeletal frame instead of a 20cm exo-skeletal frame.

These fins are part of a continuum. Don't think of it as "X-15 is for scuba", and "X-20 is for freediving". It is more appropriate to think of it as the X-20 is tuned for faster swimming and the X-15 is tuned for slower swimming. If you intend to streamline and intend to capitalize on that by swimming faster, the X-20 will be a better match for your technique. If you are not streamlining; if you are hunting, or carrying extra gear such as scuba equipment, etc... you may do better with a fin that is set to a slightly lower speed to kick ratio.

The two fins are basically identical from a construction standpoint, so I expect them to cost the same.
 
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