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Good lineshaft setup?

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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The things I will do next time are to use a smaller rope as a core. This rope takes up alot of airspace in the tube, and it doesn't float as well as I tought it would. So I would go for a smaller rope, and finish off the ends differently.
Using a 5/16" ID tube with 1/8 braided nylon is the ticket for a heavy line, though I have a 5/16ID" with 700 mono as the core and it floats and behaves very nicely.

I threw it in the pool, and it didn't float as well as I expected.

I used a pretty big rope, and it takes up ALOT of airspace in the tube. If I was to use a smaller line, there would be more space for air in the tube, and it would float better, RIGHT??

Im thinking of changing the rope out for 130 lb dacron. there would be alot of core strength, and it would float alot better.
What do you guys think.
cool, im going to change it tommorow.
Im going to go pick up some scrap dacron at my buddies shop.
Those are close. The part you wnat is the Sampo swivel. Then you need to install a ring and a longline snap. For the next sets of floatlines I'm putting together for a friend I just went the easy way and got them from Kimmy at HanaPa'a. They're like .50 cents more but you don't have to dick around with them, just tie them off, cinch them in the tubing, heat up the shrink wrap and off you go.

Is silicone tubing better than norprene? The silicone tubing seems to have more elasticity but a bit less durable than norprene. I wonder if this will make a better floating line. I guess there is only one way to find out.

I found some of those heavy swivels in my local fishing equipment store, 5 dollars for 6. Time to make another floating line I think.


I have a couple lines made out of norprene and I love the stuff. It doesn't get stiff in the cold, and never has a 'memory' if you leave it coiled for a long time. It also can stretch 100%....kind of like an intermediate bungie material. It also has a much better gripping surface than vinyl. One setback you may encounter will be that the 'rubbery' texture of the tubing will give you a lot of grief if you try to vacuum a mono line through it. It is also considerably more expensive than vinyl.

Mono weight

While it is raining, and the water is mud, Im gonna rig a breakaway system for my riffe. Ive already made the rubber tube with the rope loop piece - which I may, or may not use; still thinking about using the bungi loop to the line release. Coupla questions
Im gonna have to either shorten my shooting line by a half wrap or, replace the mono. Im leaning toward the latter because I dont want to shorten my range. I can buy 200, 300, or 400 lb Ginkai mono.
For a wsb gun, what weight is recommended?
What qualities do I look for in a crimper?

Thanks in advance
ah... WSB and Riffe in the same sentence!

Save yourself loads of grief and probably some fish and replace the whole setup with plastic coated cable, lose the mono and pair up with a bungie release ala Riffe's $24 deal or your own, attach the cable/release to a 100 foot floater with a peanut float on the end and smoothness in the kelp is yours.

The cable resists all the rubbing and fouling in the kelp and doesn't remember the bend around the release tab like mono does. Plus it's a bunch easier to unwind from the kelp when a WSB takes off ... :head

Call up my gal Kimmy at Hana Pa'a and tell her I said you want their cable and crimps- it's the softest stuff around, just like her. The middle of the road Jinkai crimper is dakine and they sell it too. One call and you stylin.

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S'matta, you got no peanut floats down there in OZ?

A peanut float is just a term for a pool lane float, the small 3" diameter, 5 inch long job :naughty that are strung on a line and run to seperate the lanes of a pool. Head off to a pool supply place and pick up a couple for a buck a throw. I like the small floats rather than the larger walnut float :hmm as it slides along and through the kelp better, and a 100' floater will give you time to grab it as it goes by. A fair dinkum deal.

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My buddy Don came by my apartment with his box of tools, and some photos of a 63 lb wsb he speared last week. He installed 300lb black mono, and on the line release end, the pigtail swivel. The swivel has a loop of rope that the floatline will clip to. The ring that holds the swivel will either connect to my home-made rubber tube that is supposed to fit into the butt of my gun, but doesnt, or to a small loop of elastic / bunji that will hook on my line release. The latter looks like a smoother setup.

I agree with you, Sven, about the coated cable, but am cautious about being able to cut myself free from an entanglement. I do not carry shears. While I mess around with rigging, and finding a system that works for me, I am gonna stick with mono. When I get more comfortable with my gear, and go looking for Yellows, then Ill go for the coated cable. How is it that the cable behaves differently than mono when wrapped around the kelp?

I got the peanut floats to attach to my floatline, but am a little apprehensive about getting caught in kelp. As we know anything that can get caught in kelp will do so, and in the least opportune moment.

63 pounds eh? That'll work... all day!:inlove

Yeah, a little loop of bungie over the line release will work as well, but take care to check it every so often as the stress of being bent over :naughty the release will cause it to fatigue pretty quick if you don't wash it and then store it off the release.

Cable is cool as it doesn't nick and it's the nicks that will start the fouling process on the kelp stalks and then the whole thing goes to sh!t. That and since it's just a tad thicker and stiffer than the mono, it resists the looping and twisting of the mono. (They're called arseholes in maritime parlance.)

The carrying of shears or dykes is de riguer for cable. I carry them for mono and spectra/dyneema too. They fit behind the knife in my sheath on the inside of my calf and don't foul or bugger up my smooth profile- always a thing good in the kelp or anywhere for that matter...

The peanut or pool lane float won't hang you up at all, and is the least drag in the kelp of anything I've found. The guys on the Truth boats up North of you in SB swear by them and they're popping fish on a pretty average basis. One peanut float is all you'll need. Having a quick link on the end of the floater will retain the float and let you add a Riffe, OMER, etc., inflatable tube too. That's the ticket.

Hey Sven,

How do you keep the peanuts from sliding? Or do you want it to slide up and down the floatline?
It slides. As you move through the water the float is pushed to the back against the swivel/snap/link.

here ya go...

Seeing as how the term peanut float is generating interest and a fair amount of confusion, here's a couple of pictures of an assembled rig and one showing the parts and pieces.

This is a completed 100 foot floatline, 5/16" inside diameter with 700 pound mono inside, a longline clip on a barrel swivel on one end and a barrel swivel/quick link on the other end. The clip goes on the gun or shaft line release and the link keeps the pool lane float, (or peanut) on the tubing and can attach a larger float to it when the water gets clear of kelp and such. :cool: This is dakine rig for White Seabass and doodling about in the kelp. :cool:

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