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Max safe depth for goggles

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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Interesting thread! Two thoughts:

Maybe there is some air in the wood which is forced it the goggles as water is forced into the wood? Can't imagine there would be a significant volume in there in comparison to the overall internal volume of the goggles though.

Might it be possible to create 'packing' goggles that have an internal pressure greater then 1 bar at the surface? Elaborate and limited applications maybe but, heh, it's late!
 
The packing goggles would have to have a REALLY tight strap :)

I'd go for a design where the lens is against some kind of spring so that the deeper you go the further the lens compresses the spring and slides/moves closer to the eyes, thus reducing internal volume.
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Maybe there is some air in the wood which is forced it the goggles as water is forced into the wood? Can't imagine there would be a significant volume in there in comparison to the overall internal volume of the goggles though.
I don't think so. Either the wood would be very porous, and then it would quickly start leaking, or (if it was not porous enough) a significant pressure gradient would be needed, so during a short dive it would have no big impact. Besides it, the effect would then perhaps partially work at the first dive, but once the wood soaked with water, you would need to get the water out of it before the next dive. It could not escape alone, without applying significant vacuum, or without drying it on the sun for extended period.

Might it be possible to create 'packing' goggles that have an internal pressure greater then 1 bar at the surface? Elaborate and limited applications maybe but, heh, it's late!
Better, simpler, and less harmful to the eyes are the auto compensating goggles I mentioned earlier in this thread - such as used for example by the amas

30530-max-safe-depth-goggles-ama_goggles_hanging.jpg
 
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I wonder how much drag is felt with those balloons. It seems they're secured to the goggle strap, just what I would do to make things as streamlined as possible. I wonder if an integrated strap/balloon is feasible. I mean like an inflatable strap.

What I don't understand is what keeps the balloons from releasing air when on the surface but allow it underwater. Is it some sort of pressure valve?
 
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Only a guess but the balloons don't need to be at pressurised, they can just be at 1 atm on the surface.... I still prefer my 'sliding lenses' idea although it would result in ridiculous goggles in terms of style :)
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Yes, the ballons keep their form naturally due to the elasticity of the rubber. No pressurizing needed. Their volume is great enough to provide equalizing air to 50m, and likely much deeper. You can, of course, use other, more streamlined elastic air container, or hide it under the chin.
 
^^ I remember our good friend Eric F had a version using an air bladder under his
"cone head" looking swimcap!! looked a treat! no idea how it worked but I remember it was not perfect.
 
Could Wolfgang repeat the dive holding an UW camera in his hands pointed towards his face the entire dive (descent plus ascent)?

Video of the diver walking on the seabed
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgRpwESWPLM&feature=player_embedded]YouTube - Sea Bed Hunting On One Breath - Human Planet: Oceans, preview - BBC One[/ame]

Friend of mine (Ken Kiriyama) last year testing them down to 10m
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hg9NuDTl4sc&feature=player_embedded]YouTube - Amazing Wooden Diving Goggles.AVI[/ame]

i was 3 days ago down to 21,3m with a version that is made out of epoxy (had a better fit for my face).
no flooding of the goggle. no distorted vision. no eyes popping out, no damaged blood vessels. only medium pressure.
no clue why.
Will repeat the dive with a camera showing my face when the rain stopps here :-(

Any idea how i could measure the pressure inside the goggle?
Anybody who had a mask squeeze can tell me how it felt just before the squeeze?
 
One idea is that there are people who can blow air through the tear ducts as told many times beofore. It is possible therefore that while blowing to equalize ears a small quantity of air passes through the tear ducts automatically thus allowing to dive deeper with the wooden goggles that are not compressible contrary to the classic silicone which are acting like suckers so the feeling of sucking is greater thus stopping us earlier to go deeper.

In comparison between classic silicon and wood, the pressure is the same, the quantity of air passing the tear ducts is the same BUT the feeling of sucking is considerably different so probably fear of crashing eyes because of the greater sucking feeling is the reason of stopping us go deeper with the silicone goggles.

Just some thoughts...
 
Aquasphere goggles are the best stock item for deep goggle diving. You can certainly reach 19-20m with some pain and 15m easily, if you fully inflate them before diving.

Concerning the mystery of wooden goggles, I suppose there is some small chance that gas in the water is being forced into the goggle? There are dissolved gases in the water, and perhaps the wood allows the gas to pass but not the water.

Air bulb autoequalizing goggles can be awesome but the bulb must be very soft and flexible for them to work.
 
I made the 21,3m dive with Mr. Poxy. No chance of gas going through the goggle.
Weather getting better.
Video of a 20m goggle dive to come within the next days.

More infos on Mr. Poxy and other goggles to buy ... see signature below.
 
buy and try :)

you need to adjust the distance of the goggles first.
then find the right position in your eye mould (?) so they don't leak.
it also helped opening my eyes wide when putting them on.
took me about 1-5 minutes for each different models to get them to fit.
then they were very good, but i would not compare the comfort with a regular diving mask/swimming goggle.
Since they are completely rigid most likely not all models will fit a persons face.
For my face i got 3 out of 4 goggles to fit and don't flood.
Mr. Poxy fit me right away.
I will try if for the wooden ones using some dried wood glue on the goggles helps to make them fit even better.
 
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This is to report my experience with the wooden goggles. I bought 5 pieces from Wolfgang in Philippines. Two basic model, two chic model and one mr poxy. Package received in good order and within 9 days from payment. All goggles were packed in a hand made banana tree pouch (great for gift). Have put them all on my face immediately one by one and not fitted well. Also because I have deep eye sockets the fishing line between the eyes was bit painfull cutting my nose skin on the bridge area. Last night I found some time to adjust them and make some small modifications.

I have adjusted the fishing line space on the nose bridge area and also I have placed an electrical cable tube for comfort. This is it! On dry land all models fits perfectly now! Very comfortable (correct adjustment was the key) for a rigit material. Mr poxy is the most rigid piece but to my surprise is cupping like the speedos! Wooden models cupping too! The view through all models is very good and gives a nice "original" feeling wearing them!

Next will be the flooding test in swimming pool but I strongly feel that there will be no problem. Will revert with an update soonest done. Pressure test should be done at sea at later stage (its very cold here to go out with a 3mm suit!).

Here are some photos of my new equipment (with nose bridge modified)! Very retro and in my opinion a must have piece for the freedivers!
 

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I'd like to try those wooden googles, look great. But I worry about something trux said - how is the strength of the lens material? Is it glass? Reinforced? I'm happy to bear the responsibility of injury from having my eyes pop out my skull, but a broken lens cutting my eyeball, no thanks....!
 
Please keep in mind that these wooden goggles are not an industrial product.
no safety certificates, no product tests, ... .

The glass of the goggles is made of recycled glass from old wall watches.
Thickness varies between the different models.

Any ideas out there how to test them in a safe way in bigger depths?
Placing the goggles on a raw steak and then bringing them down deeper?
 
Any ideas out there how to test them in a safe way in bigger depths? Placing the goggles on a raw steak and then bringing them down deeper?
Yes, seal them properly, enclosing inside about the same volume of air as if put on the face, and then sink them repeatedly to bigger and bigger depths on a weighted line, to see when they burst (and how).
 
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