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Max safe depth for goggles

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
Ok I have tested the goggles yesterday in s/pool. All models were just great in respect of flooding to my surprise. Only the basic model was little flooding (some drops) because does not fit perfectly to my eyes socket as the others (just a matter of face, on others might fit best). The chic and the mr poxy were just perfect. Spit the glass first, then deep them in the water once, wear them and go. No fogging, no flooding (not even a slight drop of water inside), very very comfortable for me (no sucker feeling like the classic speedos). Photos from the test herebelow. Diving with them now is the only question left...
 

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the three last
 

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[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPvMCOja3YU]YouTube - World Record Milk Squirting out of Eye[/ame]
 
Yes yes I have seen that and other similar with frontal sinus.. rofl

 
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@azapa:
Woodengoggles.com has now PayPal and International Shipping.
 
dimitris33:

Did have the chance to test them at depth? How where they?
 
Hi there,

No I still havent found the chance to test them at sea for various reasons (health, etc). Normaly I will test them within the next weeks. I'll post my experience.
 
Hi,

Have found some time this weekend and went to the sea. I took with me two wooden goggles (chic model) and the seal mask (sphera with no nose pocket). All dives where limited to 6-7 meters cause of the classic pain between the eyes of squeeze coming up on the frontal sinus. First I test the seal. Nice mask, compressed a lot but despite that I have it very loose on the surface i did felt pressure of my face at 7meters and after some dives left me a nice deep mask sign on my skin face. Took some rest. Drink some water and went in again with the wooden this time. No flooding at all at surface. Seats very very good on my eyes pockets. I dived. Went down at 7m again and guess what. I felt NO slight pressure on my eyes pocket. I dont know why but these goggles are working with no feeling of sucking eyeballs. No skin signs on my face. The only thing is that at around 5 meters they are flooding a little i dont know from where but it seems that they suck some drops of water inside. I will post some pics soon. Next will be the proxy model to test.

Up to date, as my dives are limited to max 10 meters cause of my narrow frontal sinus channels I've tried many masks and goggles (minima, superocchio, mikromask, sphera, falco, seal, some arena models, fluid goggles, wooden goggles..). Among them I found the sphera and the wooden googles to be the most comfortable for me without squeezing my face (apart from the fluid goggles which u feel no pressure at all but its not for recreational purposes).

IMHO wooden goggles definitely worth a try for fun swallow dives!

Maybe the proxy model will be the great surprise! Looking forward to test them!
 
Dear all,

Just returned from a short vacation trip and would like to let you know the following.

Taking antiistamine pills for a week on daily basis helped me a lot to avoid sinus squeeze. First time in my life that have not felt the classic pressure between my eyes.

A day before I go I bought Cressi Galileo. Its swimming goggles with flat glass lenses with very soft silicone. Vision is perfect underwater like a mask. Pressure feeling starts at -9 meters. Have touched the -10 with very slight sucking feeling. Have not managed to go deeper as I had to swim far away and outside port limits which is prohibited.

Compared with the sphera goggles which I own too, I have to say that Galileo is the best way to go for swallow dives with noseclip. Perfect vision - perfect fit - easy dives till -10m.

Next is to transform this to a pipe mask with a long pipe (maybe around the neck weight) in order to avoid blowing equilization rather than the classic short pipe directly to mouth.

If this long pipe thing works, Galileo would be the best freediving goggles for me.

Will revert.
 
Correct me but isn't it so that wooden goggles work simply because they are incompressible?

If you think about submarines, they have 1 atm pressure inside whereas the outside can have a different pressure. The sub doesn't collapse because the structure of the hull is good enough.

The same with wooden goggles. Inside the goggle the air is under ambient pressure. The only pressure you will experience is the wooden frame pressing on your face. Due to its rather large surface it distributes the pressure evenly on non critical parts of your face.

So there are two factors to take into consideration:
1.) Pressure on the face due to wooden frame
2.) Rigidity of the glass

ad 1) The pressure on your face is proportional to the volume, so you'd like to keep it low. However, it is important that the frame does not press on critical parts (i.e. eyes)

ad 2) This is the most dangerous aspect. If the glass bursts it will burst inwards thus very likely causing eye damage. This needs to be avoided at all cost and thus only high quality (tempered) glass with a certain thickness should be used.
 
Correct me but isn't it so that wooden goggles work simply because they are incompressible?

If you think about submarines, they have 1 atm pressure inside whereas the outside can have a different pressure. The sub doesn't collapse because the structure of the hull is good enough.

The same with wooden goggles. Inside the goggle the air is under ambient pressure. The only pressure you will experience is the wooden frame pressing on your face. Due to its rather large surface it distributes the pressure evenly on non critical parts of your face.

So there are two factors to take into consideration:
1.) Pressure on the face due to wooden frame
2.) Rigidity of the glass

ad 1) The pressure on your face is proportional to the volume, so you'd like to keep it low. However, it is important that the frame does not press on critical parts (i.e. eyes)

ad 2) This is the most dangerous aspect. If the glass bursts it will burst inwards thus very likely causing eye damage. This needs to be avoided at all cost and thus only high quality (tempered) glass with a certain thickness should be used.

As pressure increases the volume must decrease - the goggles could implode as you say but also it's quite probable your eye balls will get sucked into the goggle. Being rigid doesn't help as the volume cannot decrease - using any compresible goggles or mask is better as by compressing the internal volume decreases without having to suck your eyes out :)
 
Correct me but isn't it so that wooden goggles work simply because they are incompressible?
I am sorry, but really not. You have to realize that the atmospehric pressure is inside the goggles, but not inside the eyes that are in the goggles, hence the sucking effect and risque of hemorragy or burst capilaries in eyes at goggles. You woud need rigid "goggles" completely enclosing your entire body, keeping it under the atmospheric pressure, for allowing your argumentation.

It works with the wooden goggles, because of their shape that is more round and bigger than common swimming goggles, hence allowing the eyeballs going deeper into the cups, compensating so the inner volume (and hence the pressure too). Common swimming goggles are mostly smaller and additionally they usually have a silicon skirt that prevents the eyeballs from entering into the cups easily, hence hindering the volume compensation.

I tested the wooden goggles, and at some 6 meters my eyeballs touch the glass. I can descend to some 8m but not deeper, because the contact becomes very unpleasant. However, with a better fit, you could go deeper.

The goggles are really beautiful and a very nice piece of equipment for collectionners, and I encourage you to get a pair too, but if you want to dive with them, you should be aware that the eyes will be stresses anyway, and that the glass used is plain glass (no tempered glass), that can easily break and cause serious injury, especially when your eyeballs are in direct contact with the glass.
 
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It works with the wooden goggles, because of their shape that is more round and bigger than common swimming goggles, hence allowing the eyeballs going deeper into the cups, compensating so the inner volume (and hence the pressure too). Common swimming goggles are mostly smaller and additionally they usually have a silicon skirt that prevents the eyeballs from entering into the cups easily, hence hindering the volume compensation.

+1 (it's the new like lol)
 
Next is to transform this to a pipe mask with a long pipe (maybe around the neck weight) in order to avoid blowing equilization rather than the classic short pipe directly to mouth.


I thought of something like that, pipe not into mouth but connected to bycicle tube that goes around my head along with goggles strap. Somehow there must be air in it before the dive, should work to 20 meters I think.
 
Somebody ever tried that:

ama_goggle.jpg


taken from:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTIf2vA-_JQ]Where the sea whistle echoes - YouTube[/ame] 3:33
 
Somebody ever tried that:
Yes, you can find it in several threads here on DB. This exact system was also used by japanese amas. I do not know anyone at high level using it, though. Not sure why, but possibly because it is relatively clumsy and little hydrodynamic in this way, but I am sure it would be possible doing it more streamlined.
 
I made a streamlined version of the goggle-bulb design; the bulb sat on top of my head under my swim cap. It did not work well, the bulb was too rigid, thus I needed extreme squeeze on my eyes before the bulb would start to collapse and transfer air. For this to work the bulb must be very soft.
 
I made a streamlined version of the goggle-bulb design; the bulb sat on top of my head under my swim cap. It did not work well, the bulb was too rigid, thus I needed extreme squeeze on my eyes before the bulb would start to collapse and transfer air. For this to work the bulb must be very soft.

how did you connect the bulb with the googles? what kind of material for the bulb?
 
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