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Teak gun - laminate or not?

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
Well, took me only 4 years and a lockdown to get this project finished… I’ve been tied up a bit, but worked out in the end.
And did i have trouble with this thing (and fun).
 

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Lot's of beautiful guns!
Some basic questions from a total zero on wood that might take a stab at it.
I wonder how you guys choose the laminate, thickness and alignment, vertical or horizontal, I saw that Riffe have guns with both. And also the T laminate and more complex inserts.
Choice of wood seems important, looks like consensus that Teak (Tectona grandis) is the absolute best (but high cost), but what are viable substitutes. I found myself, Shorea (sometimes sold as Bangkirai) and "Guyana Teak" = Basralocus to be sold as cheaper and similar to Teak substitutes. I also found Walaba (Eperua falcata) a very beautiful marbled dark wood, I imagine it would look fantastic. So any top suggestion besides Teak? How do I know that I get the right type of epoxy to glue the laminate? Is there crucial difference? I see lots of epoxy for different purpose like art/crafts, casting, some for glue, some said for laminating thin weaves like glass or carbon fiber.

Finally how slim can you make a wooden gun for 2x 14 or 16 rubbers? Teaksea makes guns down to 1,5 kg, surprisingly light to me.
Shape of gun I imagine something along these lines....1 meterish.
hyperionblog-main_1.jpg
 
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well, you won’t have to laminate your gun if you have a reasonably straight stock already, however lamination will prevent warping of the wood by a wide margin. Usually you place your laminates in a zig-zag pattern of the grain, which will make it stronger. The T-laminate is just one of many and I can see it to be stronger, but again - if you laminate it in the first place it will be rigid as it can be.
I used iroko and sapele as an alternative to teak in my first gun and while I’m not too sure if sapele can handle salt water without swelling, iroko appears to be the go-to and you may get away with oiling it. I’m doing a lot of research on the wood database if I’m unsure (google it) and compare for rot resistance, hardness and weight.
West system epoxy is the most available and a common used one, mix it up with micro balloons (you’ll find in the same shop). I also used locally sourced surfboard resin which turned out to be the easiest and best looking one, but comes at a price.
How thin you’ll get away with is subjective - I once measured up a riffe euro with the intention of making it my benchmark, but never looked at it again. I went a bit overboard on the muzzle with the gun above and strengthened it with a bit of glass, to be on the eve side. So if you overdo it you can always slap a layer of glass or carbon on afterwards.
Good luck and have fun!
 
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