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The DeeperBlue.net Gun Building Extravaganza - The Build

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
I like the idea of the handle being a bit down the barrel. Not that relevant on a 90 but it would make loading a little easier as you can get it into the butt on chest position a little easier. Also a bit more bespoke and flash of course, which is always good.
 
Hello spearos

I failed to inform you of the dimensions of the glued laminations. They are at the muzzle 60mm w x 55mm h and at the but 78mm w x 55mm h. This will provide plenty of room for shaping and creating some interesting patterns with the 2 colors. We still have some Teak strips left over to widen the blank for further shaping if necessary.

Nobody wants information of how to set up tools for professional results? OK this is no problem. Please request this if it is needed.

See you next time spearos
 
Reactions: foxfish
This maybe a daft question...but if the handle is fitted further forward than the rear of a normal euro style gun what happens to the line release?My line releases are on the side of the handle on my guns and this affects the amount of line on the gun therefore affecting the range.

Will this depend of what style of trigger is used?
 
Specifications for tools would be great, so that anyone that is new to building guns could easily find what is needed. I dont have the skills as of yet to do this but knowing how to would be a great first step eh?
 
60 and 78mm x 55mm awesome!

Did I really say that. Oh F..K!!! What a twonk!
 
I agree with TOOmas about the tool setup specifications.
The tapered laminations should look great. I think the cast epoxy track seems like the best option, given the right additives to make it tough.
I've never done woodwork to this standard but it's fascinating to see this project come together.
 

The release would be a the rear of the gun at the actual trigger mechanism and not at the handle/remote trigger.
 
I don't have a clue when it comes to the technical side of building this gun to be honest. So i tend to sit and soak up the info when the discussion gets hi-tec. However i know what capabilities i would like out of this gun for my UK diving and the most important capability to me is having a good combination of range and manouverability. I would definitely like the handle further forward, making the gun very manouverable whilst tracking and easier to swim with. If i lose 6 inches of range then so be it, i obviously need to improve my technique and get closer to the fish. But on a quick snap shot (i.e a fish bomb bursting out of a hole) i don't think you can ever have a gun that tracks quick enough.

Cheers Ian
 
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c'mon fox of course he's ingles...he writes much to formal to be irishrofl
 
kjflyfish said:
One consideration is that if you use a full polymer track on a slim euro, you might loose valuable buoyancy by replacing wood with plastic. It just depends on how meaty the stock is.
Click to expand...


I agree...hiya kolt, you can go with a delrin tip for the first few inches of the muzzle
 
Pastor said:
How robust is an epoxy track? I know they are very popular in the States so they must be OK but I have no practical knowledge
Click to expand...

Pastor from my limited experience in gun biulding I have seen that although the "body" of poxy tracks are strong they tend to chip quite easy, although additives can be used to strengthen they always tend to at one point or another chip, if you deepen the track this will partially alleviate the problem but then you need fins or pins on the shaft)...also a full poxy poured track I would guess would weigh at or about the same as a delrin
 
Quite a few excellent points all which the forum should post on as a poll...my 2 centavos is to cut the track heat up with a heatgun and brush a coat of poxy in it...let that wood suck it in (don't recall if the cntr lam was P.H. but if so much the better), let'er (I refer to the gun as a her...since I have heard rumors that GITS is actually a woman...Gertrude something or other)dry and sweet it up with sand paper to a baby butt smooth...open up the first 4" of muzzle or delrin it and add an optional add-on butt say about 8" for the hipsters...call it euro cool...and give it some pink tone outa'spect to GITS
 
I still say a wood track. Latest tech and all, it won't perform any better. The all wood is a strong look. Delrin would not bother me, it just does not seem necessary. So if it's going to be different, I'd go with the epoxy channel.

The handle should be the purpleheart and teak lam too. 3 lam with purpleheart in the middle. Just my thought...
 
I'm not up to ANY speed with knowledge on spearguns as I am only getting into the sport now, but this is an amazing activity this forum has going. Quite incredible in every aspect.


BTW - The GITS, are you Damon Hill?? lol
 
Guys we are still active behind the scenes, more news very soon.
 
As far as a track, I think this one looks pretty sick! and by sick I mean cool, steller,awesome, tits, bitchen etc.

Check out this link
spearotiki

check out the muzzle at the gottom of the page
 
Hello spearos

Some time has now gone by since we glued up our blank, the glue will have hardened in the first 24 hours but it was left under clamps for days to allow full acclimatisation. After removing the clamps and all the cling film the blank was allowed to settle for a further few days resting on accurately machined battens to settle further.

Now we must progress with the build. Firstly one side of the blank was planed straight and true using the bench plane. This procedure took but a few light passes as the blank was already very straight. This surface will now become a temporary datum to allow us to square off the top surface. We mark this with a face mark so that we will always know which surface is our reference. Why temporary we may ask, it is because the centre laminate is tapered and the outside side surfaces are non parallel to the centreline of the gun where the track and trigger will be aligned. We will later glue on a sacrificial strip that will hold our final datum surface.
 

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