It’s already been mentioned but even the slightest bend in a shaft can be a disaster. I was almost in tears a few years ago missing fish with a new shaft. But when I rolled it across my granite kitchen counter I could see a little bend.
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but the flopper is a bit too tight and does not close completely.
I know a lot of people sticking to them... some people don’t like them... I know people that don’t like shrimp and lobsterHave you tried contacting C4 about this? Might be worth asking. Perhaps even include a link to this thread? Perhaps something to do with muzzle balance, as somebody mentioned above?
Over the years, I noticed several forum members get a C4 speargun but they don't seem to stick with them. Which surprises me as I would expect them to be the ultimate in versatility. Perhaps fear of loss/damage - or perhaps difficult/different to shoot accurately?
I have the same gun with the same problem. 20+ years spearfishing and have re-rigged it in a multitude of ways (changed power ratio and spear diameter) and have played with the wrap (double wrap normal and reverse wrap single). It consistently shoots about 15cm to the left of a target at full range of a single wrap. I first suspected the angle of the handle may be changing the shot as it releases, however I changed my grip a number of times to counter this and the problem remains.
I teach spearfishing courses, and so this gun now stays at home to look pretty in the corner of my shed.
How would you add lead pieces? what kinOk, I've read it all...
I'm using the gun with 14mm bands but I also have used it with 16mm bands, both with small ID... 63 and 61 cm would be too short for small id bands for my spear... In a notched spear you lose a lot of band stretch if the notches are far from the mech and there's a big space in between them... I load both bands at last fin. Measure from band hole to the fin/notch you intend to load it to, multiply by 2 and divide by the coefficient (I'd recommend 3.3-3.4 for good power to band life ratio).
This is almost like discussing witch team is best
I prefer shorter thicker spears. I don't aim using spear tip - I use gun body/spear body... 150x7mm is exactly what I have. Flopper should be tunned but that wouldn't explain side variations (only vertical) unless you shoot like a gang member
Now what I think could be at play here:
How is the gun's balance?
Some graphites are muzzle light... I had that with my 83 and it was repaired under warranty.
If you see pictures of Graphites and Mr carbon/iron from spearos, you'll see quite a few with lead pieces glued at the front. I think C4 is more onto of it now but some guns were not properly balanced... Do you have to force the gun down, rotating your wrist down to keep it in line? Once you take the shot, the gun goes muzzle up? If so, front is too light! A longer spear would make it better tracking and aiming since you'd have more weight at front (Look at me commenting on Mr Rob Allen advice - I'll feel special the whole day ) but once you shoot, the muzzle will go up and mess spear trajectory...
Let me know about these...
If nothing works I have a friend wanting one of these (fell in love after trying mine) if we can work out a deal
You mean 1 thick rubber ?I also used it with 3 x hard compound 14.5mm rubbers and the recoil was extremely controlled, however, the gun cannot handle it structurally. The gun flexes upwards and the spear sits 1cm proud of the rail at the end of the rail. Even with two 14mm bands, it had a few mm of flex. The gun is ultimately designed for one band if memory serves right so maybe try one rubber and see how you go.
That’s what I mean, it is difficult to have consistent good shots. With the new spear I am reaching the target, need to confirm on fish nowHi. I also own a C4 Graphite 116. I rig it with 2x rubber bands from Sigalsub 14.5mm and a 150cm 7mm spearshaft. I've missed some close shots before too but other times I landed fish with great accuracy. So I don't really know what's happening either.