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C4 Graphite Accuracy

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
It’s already been mentioned but even the slightest bend in a shaft can be a disaster. I was almost in tears a few years ago missing fish with a new shaft. But when I rolled it across my granite kitchen counter I could see a little bend.
 
Yeh, I tried with another spear and it was better. Not super accurate but at least reached the target instead of flying over it.
 
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Earlier you said the shots flew everywhere and the flopper would not do that on its own as if you are using a single flopper integral tip shaft then it always sits in the same orientation on the gun.
 
I missed close fish, less than 2 meters in 3 m depth. That was probably due to the flopper which did not close completely. I had many different guns before that one, and it is unusual for me to miss those shots. I had the gun for a few months and had good shots with it, but I can’t say I was super confident when aiming, due to too many missed shots. I am talking pelagics, but also reef fish like parrots or trouts/cods, normally easy targets.
so bad that I bought another gun, a Pathos laser, to keep non the boat, and that I am waiting for the borders to open to get a new Bleu Tec.
I will keep the c4 until I find the best setting, or will sell it if I am not satisfied I can hit 3 out of 4 good shots.
the c4 look very light, maybe the muzzle lift too much when I press the trigger? maybe it needs a bit more weight to balance it. Right now, it floats flat with no spear, and 90degres when loaded. Handle at the surface, always.
 
Have you tried contacting C4 about this? Might be worth asking. Perhaps even include a link to this thread? Perhaps something to do with muzzle balance, as somebody mentioned above?

Over the years, I noticed several forum members get a C4 speargun but they don't seem to stick with them. Which surprises me as I would expect them to be the ultimate in versatility. Perhaps fear of loss/damage - or perhaps difficult/different to shoot accurately?
I know a lot of people sticking to them... some people don’t like them... I know people that don’t like shrimp and lobster :D
 
I have the same gun with the same problem. 20+ years spearfishing and have re-rigged it in a multitude of ways (changed power ratio and spear diameter) and have played with the wrap (double wrap normal and reverse wrap single). It consistently shoots about 15cm to the left of a target at full range of a single wrap. I first suspected the angle of the handle may be changing the shot as it releases, however I changed my grip a number of times to counter this and the problem remains.
I teach spearfishing courses, and so this gun now stays at home to look pretty in the corner of my shed.

How do you do single wrap on that gun?
 
People vary, so a gun that suits someone will not necessarily suit someone else, and that is why there are so many spearguns on the market. If you cannot get the gun to work for you and have another that does the job then use that one instead. Guns are just a means to an end, or more accurately the end for the fish that you are shooting. You can always keep the C4 Graphite as a spare in case someone needs a gun when their own gun is out of action.
 
C4 could have used line hooks on that muzzle by replacing one of the nylon washers on each side.
Urukay muzzle mod 0.jpg
 
Ok, I've read it all...

Bands:
I'm using the gun with 14mm bands but I also have used it with 16mm bands, both with small ID... 63 and 61 cm would be too short for small id bands for my spear... In a notched spear you lose a lot of band stretch if the notches are far from the mech and there's a big space in between them... I load both bands at last fin. Measure from band hole to the fin/notch you intend to load it to, multiply by 2 and divide by the coefficient (I'd recommend 3.3-3.4 for good power to band life ratio).

Spear:
This is almost like discussing witch team is best :)
I prefer shorter thicker spears. I don't aim using spear tip - I use gun body/spear body... 150x7mm is exactly what I have. Flopper should be tunned but that wouldn't explain side variations (only vertical) unless you shoot like a gang member :D

Now what I think could be at play here:

How is the gun's balance?
Some graphites are muzzle light... I had that with my 83 and it was repaired under warranty.
If you see pictures of Graphites and Mr carbon/iron from spearos, you'll see quite a few with lead pieces glued at the front. I think C4 is more onto of it now but some guns were not properly balanced... Do you have to force the gun down, rotating your wrist down to keep it in line? Once you take the shot, the gun goes muzzle up? If so, front is too light! A longer spear would make it better tracking and aiming since you'd have more weight at front (Look at me commenting on Mr Rob Allen advice - I'll feel special the whole day :) ) but once you shoot, the muzzle will go up and mess spear trajectory...

Let me know about these...
If nothing works I have a friend wanting one of these (fell in love after trying mine) if we can work out a deal :)

Cheers
How would you add lead pieces? what kin
 
The threaded hole in the nose of the Urukay is for attaching weights, but if the Graphite does not have it then you could add them to the metal side plates.
 
I had a C4 Graphite 132 I used for a little bit.. a thing of beauty that was - the best rubber gun I ever owned. I ran it with a 1.7m salvimar 7.5mm spear and two 14mm Rob Allen rubbers at 360% stretch and pool tested with great accuracy and performance. I also used a custom grip which is a BIG DEAL.
 
I also used it with 3 x hard compound 14.5mm rubbers and the recoil was extremely controlled, however, the gun cannot handle it structurally. The gun flexes upwards and the spear sits 1cm proud of the rail at the end of the rail. Even with two 14mm bands, it had a few mm of flex. The gun is ultimately designed for one band if memory serves right so maybe try one rubber and see how you go.
 
Hi. I also own a C4 Graphite 116. I rig it with 2x rubber bands from Sigalsub 14.5mm and a 150cm 7mm spearshaft. I've missed some close shots before too but other times I landed fish with great accuracy. So I don't really know what's happening either.
 
I also used it with 3 x hard compound 14.5mm rubbers and the recoil was extremely controlled, however, the gun cannot handle it structurally. The gun flexes upwards and the spear sits 1cm proud of the rail at the end of the rail. Even with two 14mm bands, it had a few mm of flex. The gun is ultimately designed for one band if memory serves right so maybe try one rubber and see how you go.
You mean 1 thick rubber ?
the c4 carbon website recommend 1 of 17 mm, or 2 of 14 or 16 mm.
I saw nobody using 1 rubber only on that gun, and that would probably increase the recoil too much , don’t you think ?
 
Hi. I also own a C4 Graphite 116. I rig it with 2x rubber bands from Sigalsub 14.5mm and a 150cm 7mm spearshaft. I've missed some close shots before too but other times I landed fish with great accuracy. So I don't really know what's happening either.
That’s what I mean, it is difficult to have consistent good shots. With the new spear I am reaching the target, need to confirm on fish now
 
It is worthwhile watching your gun as it shoots during a couple of practice shots to see if anything untoward is happening rather than watching the target. Although everything moves rapidly the departure of the shooting line is worth observing. Having someone else watching from side on is also worthwhile. My first shots out of a new gun are at bits of weed on a sandy bottom at a shallow angle to watch how the shaft flies.
 
Film a four or five shots side with a Gopro. Note each result then go back and view in slow-mo. You might be suprised as to just what's happening.
 
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