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Few questions about Monofilament Rigging Line

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
guys, thank you very much for all your help, especially you bill ;)
Thanks. Just yesterday in another conversation I was told that I provided nothing of value, so it's good to know that not everyone feels that way.:) So on to your questions.

This reactive vs progressive rubber is a new concept for me. In the US we just bought rubber- either 16 mm for big guns and thick shafts or 14 mm for smaller guns and thinner shafts. And it all had a hole with an interior diameter (ID) of 1/8". I suppose you would say that it was reactive. The rubber sold by Riffe didn't mention a choice of reactive vs progressive, and I don't think Rob Allen does either. I think it's European companies that offer those choices. Anyway, that's a long way of saying I don't know anything about it.

Now to 16 mm vs 14 mm. When people say they switched from 16 to 14, I think they mean that the 14mm is small ID- 1/16". After using 16mm large ID for decades, I've switched to 14.5 mm small ID Primeline from Mako and it does seem to have more power. But I always cut the 16 mm large ID to 350% stretch ratio, and I'm cutting the 14.5% to 360% because that seemed to be what everyone said I should do. Many even recommend 370% or more. So there are lots of variables to account for. The 14.5 mm small ID does have considerably less cross sectional area than 16 mm large ID, but I'm stretching it a little more. I hope that isn't too confusing.

Now to computing band length. The formula I've always used is to measure the distance from muzzle hole to shark fin, double that, subtract the wishbone length, then divide by stretch ratio. Then, since the wishbone knot is not quite at the end of the rubber, add one inch if the band is square cut at the end or one and one half inch if the band is tapered. Some people don't bother to subtract the wishbone length. Others don't account for square cut vs tapered. Some compete a different length for each band. Others just use the distance to the rear shark fin. Others use the average distance to two shark fins from the muzzle. It probably doesn't make a hell of a lot of difference. It just depends on how picky you are. And if you are buying pre-made bands then you have to choose from what is offered, but maybe you could use this formula to choose.

I really can't say what the right size gun is for you conditions, but hopefully someone else will offer and opinion on that.
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