First build Teak blank ,few questions

[doyenofcastle]

fevicol 1k pur adhesive ?any reviews ?

 

[foxfish]

5mm sounds a bit deep, that might work with a sharkfin spear but not with a notched spear.
Coating the inside with epoxy is ok but epoxy is not easy to work with, it is fine for applying a base coat but at the end of the day it is a glue not a finishing product!
Having said that there are epoxy based finishing products available.... to line the track, epoxy mixed with graphite powder is a great way to go but it is best to fill a square, oversized track & then rout out to size.
Anyway a 7mm track will be fine for a 6mm shaft although that is a very thin spear!

 

[doyenofcastle]

View attachment 40418

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[doyenofcastle]

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[foxfish]

I have not seen that particular glue but polyurethane glue works very well, you need very high clamping pressure (unlike epoxy) to get good results though.
The other thing about that type of glue is it is virtually impossible to get off your hands (or clothes) so always wear gloves!!
If it gets on your skin you will either have to wait until you get a new layer of skin or use a pumice stone to remove the skin.

 

[doyenofcastle]

thanks ,its locally distribute here in UAE,i think i need to scratch wood surface by 40grit then clean by acetone prior to apply glue

any suggestion for blank cross section (90//110//130) guns ?I'm doing 3guns

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[foxfish]

I don't think you need acetone for poyl but you do need to damp the wood with water.
I tend to use quite complex laminate designs but it is for looks as much as strength!
Here is an end section on one I am building right now...

 

[Will Read]

I think I have exaggerated the depth of the shaft track, I didn't really measure just kept doing passes until a 6.5 mm shaft sat nicely in the track, il post a pic of the shaft in place. It's probably more like 3 mm deep. The poured track sounds interesting but not sure if it'd worth the effort in any small gain in less friction. Yes I went for a 6mm as wanted a quick Spear, it's only 115 cm shaft and will be propelled by single 16mm band so don't think it should wobble but we'll see. Yes thanks for the advice about the epoxy, il probably just do 1 thinned coat down the track and inside the mech pocket and the rest will get a couple of coats of semco teak sealer. More pics to follow, working on the handle right now.

5mm sounds a bit deep, that might work with a sharkfin spear but not with a notched spear.
Coating the inside with epoxy is ok but epoxy is not easy to work with, it is fine for applying a base coat but at the end of the day it is a glue not a finishing product!
Having said that there are epoxy based finishing products available.... to line the track, epoxy mixed with graphite powder is a great way to go but it is best to fill a square, oversized track & then rout out to size.
Anyway a 7mm track will be fine for a 6mm shaft although that is a very thin spear!

 

[doyenofcastle]

hi guys

I need little help in the drawing of handle i need thickness and width of the fram made from SS it should be strong and also light weight ,any suggestion ?i ll cut in CNC


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[doyenofcastle]

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[Will Read]

Ok bit of an update , the handle is pretty much done . Actually using some 3mm stainless pins as dowels to make sure the handle is firm plus a shallowish mortice and a load of epoxy. Just need to slim the blank and roundover the edges, cut my bandslot ,router out some shallow recesses for the trigger guard and line anchor and a general sand, then il kind of be stuck until I can get wet with the gun and get it balanced with some carefully placd lead ballast . Then a couple of coats of semco teak sealer and im ready for April !

 

[doyenofcastle]

guys I just use poly glue yesterday but during application i made zigzag path then try to slide the wood right to left move and still i can see uncover areas so i put again to cover so the results was soo much foam came out after i tight the clamp ,Is it ok or there is possibility some area will be without glue?i think better to use spreading knife for next blank today

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[foxfish]

Yes a disposable spreader is the best tool to use, make sure you damp the wood first and use lots of clamps. Did you get any on your hands?

 

[doyenofcastle]

yes not too much , today I'll buy gloves

 

[doyenofcastle]

I did the second pieces ,still 6 more oak and teak ,but from your experience foxfish how you will know the glue did a good job and no separation will happen between the lamination ?I can detect small gap(<1/32) in the middle lamination but length is less than 1/2 in but no idea if it penetrate the wood or just surface

 

[foxfish]

All the guns I build are made from multi laminates, sometimes 10 or more, I then produce slim guns by shaping down the blank.
So I can see how the glue has worked.
If the surface of the laminate was flat and the glue was evenly spread, there will not be any gaps!
Poly glue expands (as you know) so if the clamping pressure is great then any glue with fill the potential air pockets by expanding out of the sides.
I don't think that poly glue seeps into the wood like epoxy but it seems to bond extremely well from my experience however I have not tried the actual product you are using.

 

[doyenofcastle]

good results came with last pieces but first one shown split ?what should I do for that
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[foxfish]

I cant really see the split mate, can you post a more detailed picture?

 

[Will Read]

Well despite my thread well and truly being hijacked ! Here is a couple more pictures , I have thinned the blank and shaped it , just need to epoxy in the handle and butt piece then a final sand and rig it with line . Then I will seal it and test for where it needs any lead to be neutrally buoyant. I am slightly worried I have made it a bit thin . It looks very sleek and lovely and will be a joy to track and use , nice and light to cart about but I am worried it will be nose heavy because of the shaft . That band hole is 16mm for scale.

 

[doyenofcastle]

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