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New Guns in the works

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 90 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
So if I want an enclosed track I should cut the trigger slot first then do a pass with a 7/32", then do a second pass with a 5/16" (the same as my shaft) half round to make a mostly enclosed cross section? (see pic attached)
The trigger should be cut first yes. Next cut a standard slot the same width as the opening as the neck of your track, then with a single cut use the ball cutter to cut your track. Be ultra careful doing that as there will be zero tolerance for mistakes. A trick to keep everything aligned is not to move any of the guide fences during the build, just keep them where they are and work off your datum edge and everything will align up perfectly :)
 
Great! I'm all set to get right down to it.... but I have to wait for the wood to sit. haha Oh well. Ce la vie right? I think I might get to work on my trigger mechs in the mean time. I have access to a computer controlled laser cutter!!! : )

Thanks for all the help guys.
 
Bad News!!

It turns out I will not be able to use my schools CCE machines to make my triggers. They can't cut stainless!! So I'll be buying some premade ones :vangry:head

So it won't be a completely homemade gun... I think I'll live.

So who wants to tell me about these triggers. Any experiences w/them etc.? Which do you recommend for my 90cm gun and which from my 60" gun? Since the 60" gun is going to be a mid-handle, what triggers offer a release behind the trigger?

Also, should I put the line release on the right side or the left side or is it just personal preference? (I'm right handed if that helps)

Neptonic Speargun Trigger

Alexander Mech (from Speargun Parts and Accessories?) **are these reputable sites?**

Riffe mid handle kit (also from Speargun Parts and Accessories?)

AB Biller Spear gun replacement parts

In advance, thanks for sharing your opinions of what would be best for my guns!
 
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Just use something to take out most of the wood (stay away from the edges) and make a general shape. Then cut to exat dimensions (checking w/mech dryfit) with the chisels. Go slow! and don't screw it up... haha just kidding, just take your time and it will work great.

use a bit like this (skinnier than the one in the pic, obviously), or anything with a flat bottom-Routerbits.com,Inc Products
 
I cut the trigger slot before the laminates are glued together, I use commercially made enclosed tracks!
I guess you guys did not want to here that?
You will obviously need the trigger mechanism before you can cut the slot but after that it is basic carpentry.
For an enclosed track - well setinsteel has one solution but I think it is a complex operation that involves so many criteria it makes my head swim!
However as a rough guild - a .5mm film of water surrounding the spear will potentially offer good performance.
Open tracks are very tried & tested & the preferred method of virtually all he mass production spearguns, that must tell you something?
 
Yeah, the more I've been looking around, I'm starting to think that I'm just going to use a partially enclosed track so that I can use a spear that doesn't have shark tabs (which are harder to find), and it will be easier to make. Any thoughts anyone?
 
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Yeah, the more I've been looking around, I'm starting to think that I'm just going to use a partially enclosed track so that I can use a spear that doesn't have shark tabs (which are harder to find), and it will be easier to make. Any thoughts anyone?


Im thinkin 2/3 ENCLOSED but opposite of what your are thinking that way close shots can be taken without busting the track. if you do it so you dont need shark fins as the bands ride up the enclosed track they will slip off the shaft early and you will lose power, if im thinkin of what your thinking:confused:
 
Hey just to give you an alternate view on some gun ideas, when i was contemplating building a wood mid handled, i stumbled across this guys website,
spearotiki
hes got gorgeous guns, all hand carved and looks like a lot of time went into em, but better yet hes got a technical guide for building a gun with photos, and also sells whole kits, all the hard ware, or trigger mechanisms for mid handles, handles, the whole bit, if i wasnt so strapped for cash now i try to build one immediately. Hope this helps a lil, plus email the guy he responds back with plenty of info. Good luck on the gun- Chris
 
Yeah, the more I've been looking around, I'm starting to think that I'm just going to use a partially enclosed track so that I can use a spear that doesn't have shark tabs (which are harder to find), and it will be easier to make. Any thoughts anyone?
I think if you're new to making guns then try to keep it simple the first time. Once you have made one and it works you will want to make more an better. I would recommend the open track rather than the fully enclosed track for now. However since I bought the gun in my signature I have been very surprised at the difference between the two types. So maybe in the future you might want to go the extra mile and do the fully enclosed.
 
Wow, he's quite an artist. Great pics.

What I was talking about for the partially enclosed would be something like the cross section I have attached. Enclosed enough to help it stay guided, but open enough to not have to use shark fin spears. I haven't decided for sure, and I still may go with an enclosed (except for like 8" at the muzzle).
 
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oh ok, i misunderstood you i thought you meant open track tapering to a fully enclosed. mine is going to be fully enclosed for 2/3 of the gun then the rest will taper to open track, that way if i take a really close shot it will not bust the track off my gun.(if the spear clears the track before it hits the fish
 
I finished my second lam (the 90cm gun) and would post pics, but it looks exactly like the other lam pics (just w/ 5 lams instead of 6 and shorter). I'm waiting on my trigger, spear, and bands. I'll keep everyone updated. I did, however, finish a new sheath for my knife. I use the SEAL pup knife from SOG, and the sheath that came with it (the old one, not the newer ones) isn't well suited to leg attachment (very thick) so I used some really cool material my buddy got for me (it's some sort of mold-able white plastic used to make splints in hospitals) I just put it in boiling water then layed it over my knife voilà! sweet sheath.
 
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