New Guns in the works

[riffehunter717]

cant quite figure out how to get pictures attached

 

[frogmansailor]

You have to click "go advanced" and then scroll down past the editing window to a small box that says "manage attachments" click that, and another small window will pop up (make sure you allow pop ups) on there you click upload photo.

Or you can attach a photo from a html (as in it's already on the internet and you just want to link to it) then you just go to the pic you want right click it and go to properties then copy the link into the html box on the post edit screen.

 

[frogmansailor]

A couple questions:
1. if I want an open track, can I use a 1/4" round end router bit, and just have the bit move the extra distance left and right (1/32" total) to fit a 9/32" shaft?

2. Good places to buy a spear 100cm +-, 9/32", hawaiian or tahitian tip, no shark fins necessary, that will work with a poseidon sub trigger mech? I was looking at the picasso tahitian 7mm in 115cm. Are they good spears? Will that work well with two 16" +-, 9/16" bands?

3. Will it be strong enough to have my whole handle/trigger be a separate piece that I attach to the back of the stock with 1/2" thick aluminum plate, bolts/screws, and epoxy? Looking at pictures like the one below make me think it would be strong enough... it looks like this handle is just screwed on...

the aluminum piece will be the whole handle, and have two bolts each through the stock and the handle. The picture below (courtesy of time spent in paint) i think will help explain what I'm asking. The grey is aluminum, everything else is labeled. Would this work?

 

[settingsteel]

1. if I want an open track, can I use a 1/4" round end router bit, and just have the bit move the extra distance left and right (1/32" total) to fit a 9/32" shaft?

you probably can, if I recall (been awhile since I've gone open track), with just one pass (no need to go L/R with multi passes), Have you considered a Riffe Euro (17/64" If not mistaken) that will surely fit and is a hell of speedster

2. Good places to buy a spear 100cm +-, 9/32", hawaiian or tahitian tip, no shark fins necessary, that will work with a poseidon sub trigger mech? I was looking at the picasso tahitian 7mm in 115cm. Are they good spears? Will that work well with two 16" +-, 9/16" bands?

Google Ray Odor shafts, why no fins or pins???, in a track the depth is crucial with notched spears, more forgiving with fins/pins as well as have 2 options of tying line. Steve's trig works fine on both RO and Riffe, the euro shaft above (17/64") is notched with tiny fins (kinda hybrid I guess) bands dia. are fine, 16" length dependent on gun

3. Will it be strong enough to have my whole handle/trigger be a separate piece that I attach to the back of the stock with 1/2" thick aluminum plate, bolts/screws, and epoxy? Looking at pictures like the one below make me think it would be strong enough... it looks like this handle is just screwed on...

yes it should be, don't need the poxy, but guess it wouldn't hurt (just won't be removable for travel), why not buy a white "plastic" cutting board and make your handle outa that better IMO

the aluminum piece will be the whole handle, and have two bolts each through the stock and the handle. The picture below (courtesy of time spent in paint) i think will help explain what I'm asking. The grey is aluminum, everything else is labeled. Would this work?[/quote]

 

[foxfish]

A couple questions:
1. if I want an open track, can I use a 1/4" round end router bit, and just have the bit move the extra distance left and right (1/32" total) to fit a 9/32" shaft?

2. Good places to buy a spear

3. Will it be strong enough to have my whole handle/trigger be a separate piece that I attach to the back of the stock. Would this work?

You only need to cut a shallow half round for the spear to sit in, one way would be to use the cutter you have then wrap some fine sandpaper around your spear & sand the correct fitment IE 6.5mm spear = 7mm diameter round.
I cant believe you cant find a mail order company that stocks suitable spears?
I dont fully understand what you are trying to do but yes you can join the handle, trigger unit to the stock?

 

[frogmansailor]

I cant believe you cant find a mail order company that stocks suitable spears?

I dont fully understand what you are trying to do but yes you can join the handle, trigger unit to the stock?

I can find plenty of places to buy spears, I was asking for someone with experience to check to make sure I'm not making a stupid purchase. I can't see the product, and I just was wondering if anyone had had any experience with picasso spears.

Yes, I want to attach a separate handle to my stock, and was wondering if it would be strong enough. It sounds as if it will be.

 

[foxfish]

I made this post http://forums.deeperblue.net/hunting-equipment/75356-riffe-1-4-6-35mm-tahitian-euroshaft.html The Riffe spear is the only American spear i have any personal knowledge off, it has small & very neat shark fins but they are to small to use with an enclosed track. I liked the spear & I think it comes in two diameters?

 

[frogmansailor]

Hey, I have a little problem:

I got my posiedon sub trigger, and my picasso tahitian spear. They're both great, but the spear doesn't fit the trigger. Can I shorten the spear end so that it fits? and if I do, I will have to drill a new hole for the shooting line?

A little help?

 

[Pastor]

A Picasso shaft? Is that a euro shaft?

 

[frogmansailor]

Yea, it's a 7mm 115 cm tahitian shaft. Picasso America - Deep Down We're the Best Freediving and Spearfishing Equipment

I figured out the problem though. I just had to flatten the back of the spear about 1 - 2 mm and it fits perfectly now.

 

[settingsteel]

I'd verify that with Steve...a misfire is nothing to take lightly.

 

[frogmansailor]

I did, he said it was fine. Thanks though.

 

[Pastor]

So Steve said a euro shaft was OK in his mechanism?, That could be interesting if so!

 

[metelin]

just to clarify things the trigger mech was not designed for euro shafts. i would recommend a ray odor american shaft instead.
Spearfishing Supplies by Ray Odor

steve

 

[Pastor]

I thought not, thanks for clarifying that Steve

 

[frogmansailor]

we'll i already have the shaft, and all i had to do was take about a mm of material off of the back of the spear and now it fits perfectly. Is there some reason I should think that the setup is unsafe? If the spear locks into the mech (ie. the distance from the bottom of the spear to the top of the spear on the part of the shaft behind the sear is bigger than the distance between the sear and the top of the mech) then there should be nothing to worry about, yes?

 

[Pastor]

It's a case of Steve's trigger was designed to hold a square notched shaft and the Picasso has a round notch. Whilst it might hold it cannot be regarded as being ideal. This might be OK if you are diving alone and well away from any other water users but if you plan on diving with someone else then there is an added risk. Whilst no loaded gun can be regarded as safe using the wrong parts can only increase any risk. Another reason it would be better to swap the shafts is that as the trigger is designed to hold the shaft in a different way, using the round notch may not allow the mechanism to engage fully, of course adding to the point i previously tried to make but also putting stress into the mechanism it wasn't meant to take. This could manifest it's self in simply rounding off the square end of the sear or even worse damaging the shelf on the trigger that the sear sits on.

 

[settingsteel]

couldn't have said it better, well maybe, I wouldn't use those fancy "whilsts"rofl

 

[Pastor]

I think it must be a northern thing or something, I noticed the same thing in the University whilst marking some assignments rofl

 

[frogmansailor]

Well I hate to say it, and I appreciate your concern, but it's what I have and I';m not about to shell out another 100 bucks for a new shaft when I have one that fits sitting in front of me. The trigger is fully engaged because the sear has clicked into the trigger, and the spear can only pull in one direction (away, just like every other spear) so I don't see how it can be putting any other stress on the trigger than it was designed to take. The worst thing i see here is the mismatch between sear and spear, but as my drawing shows what I'm thinking, I dont see it as much of a problem, the spear just doesnt match up perfectly to the sear (most american shafts have slightly different shaped square ends anyway they probably put just as much of this "stress" you talk about on the trigger)

I'm not trying to be argumentative, but I guess i just dont see why this wont work.