• Welcome to the DeeperBlue.com Forums, the largest online community dedicated to Freediving, Scuba Diving and Spearfishing. To gain full access to the DeeperBlue.com Forums you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:

    • Join over 44,280+ fellow diving enthusiasts from around the world on this forum
    • Participate in and browse from over 516,210+ posts.
    • Communicate privately with other divers from around the world.
    • Post your own photos or view from 7,441+ user submitted images.
    • All this and much more...

    You can gain access to all this absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!

Pump threads and shaft compatibility between different brands.

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
Any photos of said hole?
 
Looks like the "Competition Line" and the "Jet" are not exactly the same in the trigger area if you look closely.
 
Will do so tmrw.
 
Reactions: Diving Gecko
Here are the pics!
 

Attachments

  • 1.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 279
  • 2.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 272
  • 3.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 287
  • 4.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 274
  • 5.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 284
  • 6.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 287
  • 7.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 280
  • 8.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 285
Reactions: Diving Gecko
Thanks for the pics. But I can’t figure out what the little white plug/piston is for.
I’ve seen pumps where the o-ring seat is deliberately opened on one side so that when you retract the pump handle the o-ring is allowed to leak. And then, obviously in the “pumping direction” the o-ring flange is normal so that there’s a full seal. I guess you did that on the metal piston, too?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I knew you would have this question. Little white thing does not move. It has to o-rings , one inside the body of the pump and one plays the role of that o-ring at the end of your pump (that thing that wiggles). It is used to reduce the dead space of the pump
 
On the last photo you can see the hole in the body of the pump next to the rear thread. This is the air collector hole. O-rings on the moving piston (end of the pusher) never leak. I use two to increase reliability
 
Reactions: Diving Gecko
Introduction of that white cylinder was necessary in order to move the thread to the body of the pump and thus fix the shit Mares created.
 
Reactions: Diving Gecko
Here’s a pic of a bike pump showing the intentional cut outs to allow one-way leaking:


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Here’s a pic of a bike pump showing the intentional cut outs to allow one-way leaking:


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No,I have nothing like that. Your original pump also has the air hole. But the piston is quite different - it is not serviceable. Mine is. Just replace o-rings and you are good to go.
 
Reactions: Diving Gecko
Introduction of that white cylinder was necessary in order to move the thread to the body of the pump and thus fix the shit Mares created.

Ah, of course! So, about half of it will stick out and seal inside the inlet valve of the gun.
Got it now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Unfortunately my pump is aluminum (the pusher is stainless). Since it is screwed into the end of the gun that is stainless it creates a chance of cross-threading. Thus you have to be careful. First of all it is difficult to find a stainless tube 14mm OD and 10mm ID and secondly cutting a 14x1 thread on stainless is a bitch. You need a proper die that is good for stainless and costs a lot. Or cut it on a lathe
 
Reactions: Diving Gecko
Ah, of course! So, about half of it will stick out and seal inside the inlet valve of the gun.
Got it now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Exactly! I cut it out of delrin. It will last forever since it does not move
 

Yeah, I’m lucky, I have a small lathe at home. I was even thinking of making the pump in titanium as I think I can get it cheap in China.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, I’m lucky, I have a small lathe at home. I was even thinking of making the pump in titanium as I think I can get it cheap in China.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a small lathe as well. Titanium would not be cheap - you need 18" length and 2mm wall. Go to aliexpress and look for stainless. You need only the part with the thread to be 14mm OD, the rest you can safely reduce to 1mm wall. Thus weight saving with titanium would be miniscule
 
Yeah, I’m lucky, I have a small lathe at home. I was even thinking of making the pump in titanium as I think I can get it cheap in China.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Select 14mm OD, 2mm wall, 45 cm length
 
Reactions: Diving Gecko

Yeah. I have a few of those on my wishlist already;-). I’m actually based in China though I haven’t been back “home” for a long time now. So, I can get pretty much everything on Taobao within a few days at very affordable prices. And often a bit cheaper than the same vendors sell their stuff on eBay for. I’ve bought titanium, brass, SS and alu in lengths of just 10-20cm and had it shipped to my door in two days.

The only reason I didn’t order the titanium tubes yet was because the seller couldn’t really tell me how well polished the inside of the tubes are. I might just buy one and see how they look and if I can polish them myself. Otherwise, the mirror polished SS tubes will be my backup solution. It’s been a year or more but I think I was looking at USD15-20 or so for a meter for a pump.

I do actually care about weight when traveling as it all adds up. But that said I really like that with titanium you don’t really have to worry about corrosion or dissimilar metal issues. That said, it’s not fun to turn ti on a mini lathe at all. I’ve done it, but far from easy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
You must look for a 'seamless' tube. They are smooth. But there is an issue of finding a proper o-ring given the ID of the tube. You must know before hand what o-rings are available to you. See here https://www.applerubber.com/oring-gland-calculator/ for reference
 
Reactions: Diving Gecko

True. But I have reverse engineered enough bulkheads and other airgun parts by now and made a few of my own from scratch to have developed a good understanding of proper o-ring seat design. Definitely enough to see when the real manufacturers have not followed “the rules”.
I use two other online calculators one of which is Trelleborg’s and the other one escapes me now. But they sure do make it easy and I’ve learned a lot by using them.
Again, with Taobao I can literally buy pretty much any o-ring size piecemeal for very little money. But I’m sure a standard AS568 series or 1.5mm or 2mm section ring can work as long as you design the o-ring seat to give the ring the correct compression.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you get an ID of 10mm - you will find the o-rings. My pump's ID is 9.5mm - I could not find the 10mm one (to match the gun's valve ID).
 
Cookies are required to use this site. You must accept them to continue using the site. Learn more…