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"Eurican's"
- Thread starterAlison
- Start date
Thread Status: Hello
, There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
Ali,
On our band guns we are using shafts produced by Victor Abellan with really hard steel and pins. He only makes a few sizes so let me know what length shaft you are using?
Devoto and Totemsub are making really good shafts too.
Spaniard, the Dapiran guns are very good but lacks finish and as they are not laminated wood, can cuase problems. Also the line anchor at muzzle is a bit strange. For a jedi get the Abellan. Laminated wood, conventional line anchor, more mass.
If absolute power is not you number 1 concern, the Totemsub Tahiti is an AWESOME gun too!!!!!!!
On our band guns we are using shafts produced by Victor Abellan with really hard steel and pins. He only makes a few sizes so let me know what length shaft you are using?
Devoto and Totemsub are making really good shafts too.
Spaniard, the Dapiran guns are very good but lacks finish and as they are not laminated wood, can cuase problems. Also the line anchor at muzzle is a bit strange. For a jedi get the Abellan. Laminated wood, conventional line anchor, more mass.
If absolute power is not you number 1 concern, the Totemsub Tahiti is an AWESOME gun too!!!!!!!
Thx for info. I have seen the Totemsub range and was impressed by overall finish. I guess I'm bored of the conventional euro-style band guns which I have been using since year dot and since pneumatic guns do not appeal I want to buy a wooden gun to see how they compare to a sporasub or omer etc. I will look at the Abellan range, will be in Spain last week of July. Gracias
Im using a 130 and a 115 we weren't sure what size to use exactly with the rails but they seem to work fine at that length, well they hit the point I'm aiming at anyways. Ive read the bumf on the Abellan shafts, they sound the part are they available in these lengths?
The abellan shafts are available in 130cm 6.5mm single flopper (on bottom) and a 140cm 7mm shaft with single or double flopper.
I am geting confirmation from him as to whats currently available.
Totemsub is also selling pinned shafts 6.5mm ranging from 130cm to 160cm with single and double flopper.
He is also selling good quality notched shafts in 115cm.
I am geting confirmation from him as to whats currently available.
Totemsub is also selling pinned shafts 6.5mm ranging from 130cm to 160cm with single and double flopper.
He is also selling good quality notched shafts in 115cm.
Hi Alison,
I was refering to the release for the spear-i think its called the sear?
I'm just curious as to how you engineer this for a mech thats made for a rear handled gun. now that i've finished college i'm tempted to try and make something like this over the winter perhaps- it looks like just the thing for diving in the Irish Soup!
Pat
I was refering to the release for the spear-i think its called the sear?
I'm just curious as to how you engineer this for a mech thats made for a rear handled gun. now that i've finished college i'm tempted to try and make something like this over the winter perhaps- it looks like just the thing for diving in the Irish Soup!
Pat
Sorry Pat
Its really simple, its just the standard pathos trigger fitted at the rear of the gun, then a remote trigger mounted further forward with a push rod pivot pinned to it running inside a groove to the rear trigger. The push rod is kept from flopping out by a metal plate screwed into the wood leaving just enough clearance for it to slide freely, so as you pull the forward trigger the rear trigger is pushed by the push rod. I'll try and get hold of the camera again and get some pictures of that later on when the neighbors are back from church
Its really simple, its just the standard pathos trigger fitted at the rear of the gun, then a remote trigger mounted further forward with a push rod pivot pinned to it running inside a groove to the rear trigger. The push rod is kept from flopping out by a metal plate screwed into the wood leaving just enough clearance for it to slide freely, so as you pull the forward trigger the rear trigger is pushed by the push rod. I'll try and get hold of the camera again and get some pictures of that later on when the neighbors are back from church
Shane
This is how we've attached the extra bands, underneath the main band there is a hole drilled through with an anodised aluminium tube epoxied in to let the dyneema cord through. If it works Colin will cut the grooves for the second band to streamline the whole thing again, we're hoping to test it out tomorrow morning
This is how we've attached the extra bands, underneath the main band there is a hole drilled through with an anodised aluminium tube epoxied in to let the dyneema cord through. If it works Colin will cut the grooves for the second band to streamline the whole thing again, we're hoping to test it out tomorrow morning
Attachments
Alison said:Shane
This is how we've attached the extra bands, underneath the main band there is a hole drilled through with an anodised aluminium tube epoxied in to let the dyneema cord through. If it works Colin will cut the grooves for the second band to streamline the whole thing again, we're hoping to test it out tomorrow morning
I see something like my guns: the first rubber on head! this makes me to think that the idea is not badly!
(in truth I think that he is much good one especially for ambush's guns)
I have realized a version with double rubber that I am trying
in water, as soon as ended the tests it will make the page web with all the
photos and video
ciao
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Hi Persiko
Yes very similar to your guns, we made some carbon/teak guns last year too and that solution seemed like the only way to attach the bands to such a thin strip of wood, though I must admit our finished muzzle wasnt as elegant as yours. We adopted the idea again this time for two reasons: for the looks, it represents a cobra's head, which kept in tune with the wood comming from Sri Lanka and also and far more importantly, it positions the bands to have their centre about between 5mm and 3mm below the spear centre (depending on the elongation of the rubbers) this is we feel the ideal for a rail gun. This last concept has been screwed up a bit by the positioning of the second set but as yet they are only temporary so we will see how they fare, still waiting for the sea to calm down a bit before I can get back in
We are both looking forward to reading your next instalment about the new gun, could you drop me a PM and tell us what you think of the double rubbers, it would be interesting to compare
Yes very similar to your guns, we made some carbon/teak guns last year too and that solution seemed like the only way to attach the bands to such a thin strip of wood, though I must admit our finished muzzle wasnt as elegant as yours. We adopted the idea again this time for two reasons: for the looks, it represents a cobra's head, which kept in tune with the wood comming from Sri Lanka and also and far more importantly, it positions the bands to have their centre about between 5mm and 3mm below the spear centre (depending on the elongation of the rubbers) this is we feel the ideal for a rail gun. This last concept has been screwed up a bit by the positioning of the second set but as yet they are only temporary so we will see how they fare, still waiting for the sea to calm down a bit before I can get back in
We are both looking forward to reading your next instalment about the new gun, could you drop me a PM and tell us what you think of the double rubbers, it would be interesting to compare
Thanks for the reply and photos Alison.
Using 2 reasonably priced mechs looks like just the job as opposed to shelling out for a dedicated mid-handled mech to fit a Euro-spear-if such a thing is available!
Keep us posted with your R+D :martial
Pat
Using 2 reasonably priced mechs looks like just the job as opposed to shelling out for a dedicated mid-handled mech to fit a Euro-spear-if such a thing is available!
Keep us posted with your R+D :martial
Pat
Both bits of the trigger cost less than 27 Euros, the main trigger as I said the Pathos at 23.31 Euro and is ideal for a rear trigger, the front one was made up out of 2mm strip brass from B&Q and slodered together to form a big lump with a slot in it for the pushrod pivot, it took Colin about 1 hour to make 2 of them. The pushrod is 3mm brass rod with a 2mm thick pivot piece soldered on the end. I think next year we will get my brother to make us some proper bits out of stainless steel, or even sacrifice the wooden handle in favour of an Alexander handle and forward trigger to simplify the whole set up
Shane/Persiko
Tried out the double 16mm's this evening, brilliant! No change in the aim whatsoever and some serious power too I'm pleased theres no change in the aim as I can use one or two bands now withouth worrying about adjusting. The only thing is, when I shoot smaller sized fish I think Ive missed as the spear goes clean through the thing rofl but its the bees knees with the bigger ones (well a 2.5Kg anyway) So yeah Happy Bunny!
Tried out the double 16mm's this evening, brilliant! No change in the aim whatsoever
and some serious power too I'm pleased theres no change in the aim as I can use one or two bands now withouth worrying about adjusting. The only thing is, when I shoot smaller sized fish I think Ive missed as the spear goes clean through the thing rofl but its the bees knees with the bigger ones (well a 2.5Kg anyway) So yeah Happy Bunny!
Alison said:Shane/Persiko
Tried out the double 16mm's this evening, brilliant! No change in the aim whatsoever
Very good!!!!
also I am constructing a double in teak
and do you remember "Spillo" it have a restyling.......
ciao!
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