Yes, SLA printed parts, FDM would probably be stronger, the resin tends to load relax too much and gets soft if much over 80 deg F. The SLA print was really nice for clean and accurate printing. I did a good amount of testing of the fin in the water, here is my review of testing and design iterations:
- The distance from the feet to the blade was based on the standard length to the middle of the blade for a composite monofin.
- The tradeoff is if the struts are too short you would have to undulate the legs radically to get speed and power. If the strut is too long, the footpockets and bracket holding the struts will have to be quite strong.
- Less angle of attack for the hydrofoil will make a faster fin, if the blade hinges too much it will just be slow.
- If possible, just forward of 25% of the chord is the ideal location for the foil to hinge, further forward starts to require a lot of spring to counteract large hinge angles.
- A high aspect ratio will be a lot more efficient and lighter but must take care to ensure it is strong enough, my design was some 40" wide with a chord of 0.5" x 5.0".
- Symmetrical wing fences with a toe-in angle is helpful to keep the hydrofoil from side slipping significantly and maintain heading.
- Make sure threaded hardware has locking features or anaerobic adhesive, water will loosen things up fairly easily.
- Shoes or foot pockets will need to have a fairly rigid sole.
- A passive but springy trailing edge would improve power and efficiency greatly.