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Need help. Building a gun.

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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Awesome. Thanks again. Hope Im not annoying any of you, but Im trying to get this right as much as I can.

I went to a local carpenter and he gave me the Iroko I needed for free. 7 pieces of 1.5cm width each. 120cm long and 4mm deep. I got the pieces longer and deeper than I need to I can then carve into the perfect dimensions I have planned after gluing them together. Ive sent a pic, see if I have placed to wood together correctly? A couple of pieces seem a little warped but I would imagine once I glue then together on a flat surface I should be alright?

I also got myself some epoxy resin, I told him what I needed it for an he gave me Sicomin SR8500 medium drying epoxy resin and hardner, 3:1 mix. Also I was advised to give the Iroko a sand down with some 40 sandpaper so the epoxy resin sticks better, or should I leave them completely flat?

So far so good, or have I already started badly?

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Wood placement?

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Good to hear. What about the epoxy resin I was given? Was I made a fool of? This guy sells for marine hobbyists so I took his word for it..

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lawstraljan16 said:
Good to hear. What about the epoxy resin I was given? Was I made a fool of? This guy sells for marine hobbyists so I took his word for it..

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I don't know the product, but I'm sure it is fine. You can trust people and can't go wrong with epoxy if you follow the instructions carefully.
Give it a go and keep us updated on the progress.
Jégwan
 
Will do. Im still a little skeptic about using the sr8500 on wood. It says multipurpose but has no mention for wood or for marine use

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These are 3d renderings I made. The handle stock and body stock. Thoughts? Should this be strong enough?
I know the gub looks massive but it will eventually be formed and wont be nearly as massive as it seems, I gave a few extra cm's so I can work around if by any chsnce I made mistakes.

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The epoxy sound ok but I have never heard of that make before, perhaps you should just glue up a test piece to see how it goes & get some experience with the glue.
Generally speaking epoxy is a very good glue & over the years it has developed into many different viscosity mixes.
However it is basically the same now as 30 years ago!
The very best results can be quite difficult to obtain but even average results are extremely durable & strong.
Iroko is an oily wood but no where near as oily as teak however, there are techniques that will help to get the best from your epoxy.
No doubt scratching up the surface helps the bond, the deeper the scratches the better but, they will show up in the joint if you go to deep.
Warming the wood with a hair dryer will open the pores & allow the epoxy to sink in a little deeper as will warming the epoxy itself but to be honest just using the glue as instructed on the pack should be fine.
Don't use excessive cramp pressure though as you need to leave some glue in the joint (polyurethane need lot of cramping pressure)
 
Thanks foxfish. Ill sand the pieces down a little with 40 sandpaper then, and maybe try heating the wood a bit too. Does the 3d render I sent look good as in strength wise? Should they hold?

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Ok thanks. If the gun comes out the way I have it in my mind, its gonna be a beauty. Im going all out on my first build but Christ is it time sonsuming and frustrating.

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There is nothing as good as experience so I very often build a one piece softwood mock up of the gun I want, it make the true build so much easier...
 
Thats cool. I was going to do a softwood mockup first but I cant as I dont have the tools to do so, so I cant really keep going to a carpenter and ask him to do something for me twice. Im being careful as much as I can. Im cutting the wood to get it as I have in the previous 3d rendering I posted, then glue it all together. Not sure if ill glue the handle in just yet though.

After I do that, ill be cutting out the space for the trigger mech, then the rail, then attach the rollers. After that Ill start with for forming of the gun. Does that sound right order wise?

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Does anyone have a specific dimention for the hight of the wishbone "stopper" above the shaft? or is is just clear of the sharksfin plus a tad?
 
Rollers ive used and seen have always been just a tad clear of the sharkfin. Make sure the sharkfin is clear from the dyneema that rests on the stopper, because if you load on a sharkfin that isnt the nearest to the trigger and shoot, you dont want the sharkfin hitting the dyneema

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That's how I made mine. Just clear of the sharkfins plus a tad of 1-2mm.
You might want to consider the sharkfin size on the most common spear makes that you are likely to use in the future...
Jégwan
 
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Before gluing the wood together ill be sanding them down a bit with 40 sandpaper. What do I use to clean the wood(iroko) before gluing? Acetone? Any certain type?

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lawstraljan16 said:
Before gluing the wood together ill be sanding them down a bit with 40 sandpaper. What do I use to clean the wood(iroko) before gluing? Acetone? Any certain type?

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The normal Acetone from the supermarked is fine.
Jégwan
 
Epoxy solvent or acetone although it is difficult to get undiluted acetone nowadays (pretty toxic stuff) either way I would not worry about it to much.
More important to get a accurate mix & warm materials.
 
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