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Project "Carbon strongback gun"

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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looking great Mart, well done mate!

One doubt: why will you cover with the clear glass topcoat rather than just good old varnish? is it 'cause you are worried of the softer cedar denting?
 
To be honest mate I think the soft cedar would except a deep penetrating coat of epoxy very well but how many guns have you seen finished with a clear epoxy & fg cloth?
I want the gun to be of a high quality but most of all - functional, durable & long lasting & of course unique!
I might also use some carbon cloth in certain areas?
 
I love that unique style you always seem to bring to your builds.
I know of no transparent cloth guns, can't wait to see the final look.
Nice going Mart.
Cheers, Don
 
I have now removed more wood & attained the basic shape I wanted, I simply ran my electric planner down the length & tidied it up a bit with a small sharp block plane.
Back down the beach &.....yep still floating :friday
This now means I can add the final shaping, cut out the wooden block in the trigger housing & shape the band holes.
Still plenty to do after that like the handle, making it look pretty with some wood stain & ultimately covering the whole gun in transparent fiberglass cloth & epoxy.
The gun now weighs 4lb 60z.

i wouldn't go thicker than 4oz or maybe 6oz glass or the gun will start to look milky because of the trapped bubbles in the glass . i did a few guns that way but stopped because it wasn't really needed
phil
 
Thanks guys, Phil I have looked into this & already ordered some specialist lightweight mat used for top coating surfboards. I also came across specialist ultra clear, uv protected resins but they are polyester based so I will probably stick to epoxy & spray on a clear lacquer.
 
Thanks guys, Phil I have looked into this & already ordered some specialist lightweight mat used for top coating surfboards. I also came across specialist ultra clear, uv protected resins but they are polyester based so I will probably stick to epoxy & spray on a clear lacquer.

4 and 6oz glass are the standard for board building "S" is stronger because of its tighter weave .but "E" or warp bends around edges better and is cheaper . very few guys i glass for spec "S" anymore
phil
 
Thanks Phil, I am pretty much up to speed with glass & board building but I have a friend who is almost famous amongst our circle, he uses a very fine weave 90grm product - looks ideal for my use.
 
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A friend of mine has just showed me some really lightweight cloth - 25grm or 3/4oz.. however I think I will be going for some 90grm or 3oz.
 

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I spent 3 hours truing up the gun, I used a block plane, sanding block & a cabinet scarper. Tedious job but looks pretty straight now.
I shaped the muzzle & fitted the trigger, next up - stain the wood & apply a base coat of epoxy.
 

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Thanks - there are a few tiny air voids visible along the exposed carbon edges that I need to fill but the bigger issue revolves around the triggers side release that I have only just realised might line up with the carbon backbone?
I will check it out tomorrow!
 
that looks sexy :)

soz to be off topic again. but i was truing up my blank the the other day with hand planer and sander. and the planer jumped and took a few chunks out of the stock.
and i can cut anymore off otherwise it will be to thin. does this really matter ?
 
Does it matter to you ?
It is about time you showed us a picture of what you are up to.
 
Does it matter to you ?
It is about time you showed us a picture of what you are up to.
picture 1. see the indentation up the top of the stock? that's like every 20cm on the bottom.
its made out of tassie oak. and its 1m long
 

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Now that I actually have the benthos trigger unit I realise that in fact there is only one fixing pin & the front lobes are designed to offer the additional fixing point.
So... I have had to make up a putty mould inside the trigger slot to allow for the front fixing, I have filled the mould with epoxy, micro fibres, & black pigment mix, however the trigger has a pull adjustment that will require access!
I will have to drill a suitable hole to allow this too....
On a more interesting point the lightweight glass has arrived & yet more carbon fibre!
I am going to add some cf where the bands will pull over the muzzle area & perhaps make a removable loading pad.
I figure rather than permanently fix a loading pad I could make a bigger detachable one that could be stored on the divers person or float.
 
Butt Pad, Butt Pad, Ooohhhhh! Butt Pad. Who can forget the famous butt pad song featuring Nick Fisher, Nigel Dooooo Jardin and Pete Perrio? As seen in the Nick Fisher TV series when he came to Guernsey to fish for blue shark.

Dave.
 
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I figure rather than permanently fix a loading pad I could make a bigger detachable one that could be stored on the divers person or float. Quote:foxfish.

I would just do a clean 10mm rubber pad, those Aussi divers all have rock hard ab's.
Any time a spero has to put gunk in the trunk a big kingie can swim up, and be gone before he can refocus. That's why I hate it if a mate swims over, and I have to take my face out of the water to talk. Record size fish seem to know just when to make a fool of you.
Great work Mart!
Cheers, Don
 
hahahahah DON Paul classic!!!!! if you could see the majority of Aussie divers you would realise we have evolved and generally carry our own cushioning in the form of a well developed beer gut, keeps us warm during long dive days,and softens the loading of powerful guns.....

not really all these kinda guns are loaded up high on the chest.

DD
 
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