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Project "Carbon strongback gun"
- Thread starterfoxfish
- Start date
Thread Status: Hello
, There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
I have been having a go with the handle over the last couple of days...
First off I made a carbon frame, then I used some Polymorph to form the shape.
That was the easy part compared to encasing the poly with carbon cloth!
I used some moulding putty to fill in the hollows & wrapped the thing in pvc tape - just got to sand it smooth now...
First off I made a carbon frame, then I used some Polymorph to form the shape.
That was the easy part compared to encasing the poly with carbon cloth!
I used some moulding putty to fill in the hollows & wrapped the thing in pvc tape - just got to sand it smooth now...
Attachments
After 3 coats of epoxy the handle looks a bit better, another 3 coats I will have to decide if I will paint it or leave the carbon showing.
Now I dont know much about blue water guns but would I be right in thinking the gun is attached to a float via a line fixed to the handle?
Now I dont know much about blue water guns but would I be right in thinking the gun is attached to a float via a line fixed to the handle?
Attachments
I'm no expert of blue water set-ups either. But as far as I am told indeed the gun may be attached to a float via a bungee line fixed to the handle,
Or you might use a breakaway system, connecting the shaft, not the gun, to the float line.
We don't use these systems in Europe but they both sound like brilliant solutions for big fish.
(Pssst! Not my cup of tea. I hope I haven't posted too much crap, maybe?).
But the handle looks great. I wasn't aware of your ability in working CF. Kudos, Mart!
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Now if the gun was just some off the shelf euro gun Id say connecting it straight to a bungee would be a good option, BUT since this gun is not just an off the shelf pipe gun, more of a masterpiece go with a breakaway! If it were me, there wouldn't be a chance in hell that I would risk loosing this gun on a fish. That being said I would still have a solid anchor point where you could attach your float line to the gun.
With a breakaway once fired you sling the bands around your shoulder and proceed to follow your floats. Now a reel might be another option?
With a breakaway once fired you sling the bands around your shoulder and proceed to follow your floats. Now a reel might be another option?
Yep either a solid anchor point, (can be at base of handle like SA'/EURO guns) or in the body at the very back of the stock (aka Riffe and other wood guns)
for a breakaway it is easily the simplest solution but does limit the use of he gun a bit.
the best breakaeway and easiest to setup does not require any add ons to the gun itself.
- rig the spear in the mech
- run line up the barrl and over the muzzle
- back down the barrel to the line release
- back up to the line anchor in the muzzle
- back down to the line release.
now crimp a strong loop (flemish eye for example) in the shooting line around 15cm short of the line release and use a Zgun bungee attached to that loop which the stretcheds onto the line release.
the float line is clipped onto the loop you just created.
once fired the line release releases the bungee and line and automatically the spear is seperated from the gun and on its way securely attached to a float. this is definetly the prefered away here compared to having to use a pull through rubber stopper and adding a stainless eyebolt into the stock.
i forgot to check the muzzle but is there a line anchor on it yet? so that the gun can be reigge traditionally as well?
looking beautiful Fox, i'd keep the handle in raw carbon look its very striking and will complement the carbon cross section as well.
DD
for a breakaway it is easily the simplest solution but does limit the use of he gun a bit.
the best breakaeway and easiest to setup does not require any add ons to the gun itself.
- rig the spear in the mech
- run line up the barrl and over the muzzle
- back down the barrel to the line release
- back up to the line anchor in the muzzle
- back down to the line release.
now crimp a strong loop (flemish eye for example) in the shooting line around 15cm short of the line release and use a Zgun bungee attached to that loop which the stretcheds onto the line release.
the float line is clipped onto the loop you just created.
once fired the line release releases the bungee and line and automatically the spear is seperated from the gun and on its way securely attached to a float. this is definetly the prefered away here compared to having to use a pull through rubber stopper and adding a stainless eyebolt into the stock.
i forgot to check the muzzle but is there a line anchor on it yet? so that the gun can be reigge traditionally as well?
looking beautiful Fox, i'd keep the handle in raw carbon look its very striking and will complement the carbon cross section as well.
DD
There is a special place in Hell for people who paint over art like that. It's beautiful.
I have had all the usual misery of trying to obtain that perfect epoxy finish!
I tried a few new techniques but in the end the repetitive "sand down & reapply" got the better of me!
So I ended up applying 4 x coats of two pack diamond hard varnish.
This product is sprayable but I just used a brush applying one coat every 24 hours - no rubbing own between coats required.
The finish is incredibly shinny
& rock hard after only two days, total cure time is about 7 days.
Here are a few pics of the front & rear detail but I will be sanding & polishing the 2pac next week, then I can fit the trigger & handle.
I tried a few new techniques but in the end the repetitive "sand down & reapply" got the better of me!
So I ended up applying 4 x coats of two pack diamond hard varnish.
This product is sprayable but I just used a brush applying one coat every 24 hours - no rubbing own between coats required.
The finish is incredibly shinny
& rock hard after only two days, total cure time is about 7 days.Here are a few pics of the front & rear detail but I will be sanding & polishing the 2pac next week, then I can fit the trigger & handle.
